Splicing Copper w/Aluminum?

[Micscience]

I have an electric motor which has a mix of copper and I assume aluminum wire. It is an old craftsman motor.

I wanted to splice the copper cord I have with the beginning part of the motor's power cord and then run the copper cord out threw the housing, instead of removing the entire cord which may or may not involve removing the casing. Will splicing both copper and aluminum or non-copper metallic wires together cause a problem? If anyone has any input on this and is willing to share would be great. Thank You

 

[raddksn]

I don't think that's AL wire judging from the age of the motor, most likely tinned copper you will be fine.

 

[rockwithjason]

yup, tinned copper

 

[Micscience]

Thanks guys you are 100% right! I removed the plug prongs and noticed a copper tint on the edges of the wires.

So back in the day they used copper plated with tin. Why take the extra step? Wouldn't that create more work? This motor is old because it says Sears Roebuck & Co., on the back plate.

I had one more question if you guys don't mind. I was hoping to replace the cord with a used table saw motor cord. The table saw cord is 16 gauge. The Craftsman draws 6.4 amps. I'm not sure if that is considered peak amps or continuous amps but I know the AWG table says 16 gauge is good for 13 amps. Should I be all set to proceed?

 

[raddksn]

Tinning the copper helps to combat corrosion, back in the day manufactures were not afraid to go the extra step(s) towards quality!!!
PS that cord will be fine.

 

[ishiboo]

Thanks guys you are 100% right! I removed the plug prongs and noticed a copper tint on the edges of the wires.

So back in the day they used copper plated with tin. Why take the extra step? Wouldn't that create more work? This motor is old because it says Sears Roebuck & Co., on the back plate.

I had one more question if you guys don't mind. I was hoping to replace the cord with a used table saw motor cord. The table saw cord is 16 gauge. The Craftsman draws 6.4 amps. I'm not sure if that is considered peak amps or continuous amps but I know the AWG table says 16 gauge is good for 13 amps. Should I be all set to proceed?

Tinned copper is still used in many places like boats and probably good motor connections.

Copper oxidizes easily when exposed to air, the tinning prevents corrosion from forming which insures a better contact.

 

[EOC_Jason]

One nifty tip, I have a zillion of those PC power cords, they are different gauges but very nifty when you need to replace a power cord on something.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Tinned copper is still used in many places like boats and probably good motor connections.Copper oxidizes easily when exposed to air, the tinning prevents corrosion from forming which insures a better contact.

also in some of the older homes in detriot area the meters are feed with that tinned copper, you'd swear its alum...........but it usually has that green tint somewhere.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Old insulation was made of rubber, which when exposed to bare copper, eroded and turned brittle.
Tinning was a way to insulate the copper from the rubber.

 

[Micscience]

Sweet that is a bunch of good information from all you guys. I agree that the extra step should be taken for good quality I just hope it is dipped into a tin bath because that would be a lot of manual labor.

EOC Jason I have a bunch of those cords as well. My electronic skills are newb-par. For some reason in my imagination I feel like I shouldn't combine PC electronics with tool electronics which probably makes no sense but that is the stain in my brain from not fully understanding AC and DC and how they can be in any electrical unit. I assume PC's are DC and tools are AC because cars have DC for the most part, and I categorize cars with computers. It's hard to explain but I do get the difference between both currents however there are many tools that use AC outlet power but have DC current so it gets worse. Anyways thanks a bunch.