Split face block
- Thread starter Shrimp92
- Start date
kartracer23
Well-known member
Not only is the block more expensive, you'll also pay more to have it laid. That's becasue the block layer has to lift it over the string vs. sliding it to it.
They HATE split faced block.
When I did my garage, the first 3 courses were done with regular block and the top full and half were split face. Could have gotten by with just the top half course split, but there are a couple places the second course shows a bit.
But it looks nicer...
They HATE split faced block.
When I did my garage, the first 3 courses were done with regular block and the top full and half were split face. Could have gotten by with just the top half course split, but there are a couple places the second course shows a bit.
But it looks nicer...
ms fowler
Well-known member
i was inspecting a job where they had split face block. The masons were UNION men, and proud of it. They argued over how to lay the SF--True to the inside ( smooth) face, true to the outside, split face side, or split the difference.
Big-Foot
Well-known member
carhunter
Well-known member
What did they decide?
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I laid my own split face block. No harder, or easier than flat faced.
don't buy it from Home depot or other box stores. They don't carry corner or half blocks, and you will probably get a mix of different batches.
The same block, from the same supplier can look very different between batches.
As far as whining about laying split faced block, I'd chock it up to just being union.
don't buy it from Home depot or other box stores. They don't carry corner or half blocks, and you will probably get a mix of different batches.
The same block, from the same supplier can look very different between batches.
As far as whining about laying split faced block, I'd chock it up to just being union.
Kentuckian
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2009
- Messages
- 96
My 36 x 42 garage was built using split face block. Yes it cost me more, both to buy and to have laid. The increased labor cost did not come from being split face but from being heavy block vs lightweight block. There is more charge for laying heavy block.
The main reason I chose split face block is because a plain block wall is not real pretty. I have a corner lot and mine is the first house located in the subdivision. In fact everyone sees my garage before they see my house. My garage with the split face walls looks much nicer to everyone who comes into our subdivision.
The main reason I chose split face block is because a plain block wall is not real pretty. I have a corner lot and mine is the first house located in the subdivision. In fact everyone sees my garage before they see my house. My garage with the split face walls looks much nicer to everyone who comes into our subdivision.
MadMechMaster
Well-known member
No experience with it personally, but being in the Chicago area, I have heard of issues like this:
http://blogs.wttw.com/moreonthestory/2011/04/04/leaky-condos/
Like with anything, the installation needs to be done right.
http://blogs.wttw.com/moreonthestory/2011/04/04/leaky-condos/
Like with anything, the installation needs to be done right.
If you don't plan on painting the block you'll want to use "Dry-Block" additive in the mortar, as well as find block that where built with "Dry-Block." To give you an idea, here it's getting increasingly harder to find split-face block that DON'T have "Dry-Block" in them. If you're painting the exterior, it's less of a concern.
And as for having to lay splitface block over the line, it's not necessary in most cases, you just lay your block from the other side of the wall in most cases........
AndysMBgarage
Well-known member
I sold split face block for 4 years dealing with builders, block layers and architects.
The two big things to remember that are critical to the end result are, design everything to suit the unit gauge, [in length and height] and lay it clean with a good damp proof course. It cannot be cleaned with hydrochloric acid as that will etch the block face and it needs to be protected from the elements until the mortar has cured.
I have attached a link to the construction specification guides and brochures we give to builders to ensure they get it laid right.
Use a waterproofing additive in the mortar and if your structure has no eaves, coat it with a penetrative sealer to reduce water access through the wall. Efflorescence can be a real problem due to the way water can easily saturate the block to the core.
It is also laid to a string line along the back of the block.
Cheers
The two big things to remember that are critical to the end result are, design everything to suit the unit gauge, [in length and height] and lay it clean with a good damp proof course. It cannot be cleaned with hydrochloric acid as that will etch the block face and it needs to be protected from the elements until the mortar has cured.
I have attached a link to the construction specification guides and brochures we give to builders to ensure they get it laid right.
Use a waterproofing additive in the mortar and if your structure has no eaves, coat it with a penetrative sealer to reduce water access through the wall. Efflorescence can be a real problem due to the way water can easily saturate the block to the core.
It is also laid to a string line along the back of the block.
Cheers
Last edited:
jaysberman
Well-known member
I have done a couple of split face buildings and they much more street appeal than regular painted block. I have found that it is wise to have them sprayed with water proofing to keep the rain water from penetrating the block.
Zeke
Well-known member
What?
Double wide blocks "split" to produce 2 irregular faces before they enter the kiln.
Tradesmen taught different ways to do things, you can find that any place that crews that normally don't work together and are on the same job site. You'll get the same between different trades too, carpenters, masons, plumbers or electricians, it has nothing to do with being a union member.
The same thing goes for inspectors too, some work with the construction guys and other create nothing but problems for them and the homeowners. Keep reading GJ and you'll find quite a few hate stories for the inspectors.
Ever seen a building like these in the link ? That's spilt face block.
http://superiorblock.com/Split_Face.html
JasonW
Well-known member
No reason to be scared of split face block, if your contractor is, thank him for his time and move on. As noted, it is common to all sorts of commercial buildings. There are two reasons for that:
1) durability
2) cost (relative to durability)
Here in Southern California we of course don't get a lot of rain but I have never known a building owner to complain about it leaking nor have I seen evidence of it any more so than smooth face block.
1) durability
2) cost (relative to durability)
Here in Southern California we of course don't get a lot of rain but I have never known a building owner to complain about it leaking nor have I seen evidence of it any more so than smooth face block.
ms fowler
Well-known member
It was not in my purview as to how they laid the SF block. I was checking structure. I just observed how they almost came to blows over it.
True to a string line on the inside face is correct.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
If cost is a concern, split faced blocks are around $2.50 per block compared to $1.50 for a standard block and the block layer gets around $1.00 more per block to lay them.
Zeke
Well-known member
I think we are both wrong. Concrete does not get fired like a brick in a kiln. You are correct that the split is done after they cure. I was thinking they went into a kiln after they dried and were split. If you put concrete in a brick kiln, they would explode or at least deteriorate.
AndysMBgarage
Well-known member
They are molded as one piece then get bolstered apart to get a rough surface, stealing material from each other as they split apart. They then go through a very humid drying room to reduce the curing time. It's clay bricks or blocks that are actually fired in a kiln.
Cheers
High Desert
Active member
As some others have stated, most big-box stores use split-face. This started happening when people began expressing concerns over the boring/industrial looks of the large buildings. Now most of those stores have architectural elements in an attempt to make them look more like several smaller buildings. They use sf block to help enhance the appearance, but most of them still paint over the face of the block.
SF block are a little heavier than standard block because they have to be molded as a larger unit, then split into two or more 8x8x16 blocks. The walls need to be thicker to withstand the stress of the splitting process.
Most small-time masons don't like it because they need to pay much more attention to the order. Gray smooth block is kept in stock, including halves, solid-bottom-bond-beam blocks (for over doors and windows), and knock-out-bond-beam block (for horizontal rebar). So if they need more, they can just run down to the manufacturer and buy a few.
With split-face, most manufacturers keep limited quantities on hand, especially if it is colored block. If they tool up to run a custom color for a project, they will charge a great deal of money to make more of something if a few are needed. Technically, a mason needs to ensure they order the correct quantity of corners (split on one face and one end), and solid-bottom block (if halves are not preferred) for a sf project, the rest of the shapes can be cut out of the standard split-face units. Masons would rather have all the special pieces pre-made instead of having to cut them, but the manufacturers don't like running small quantities, and may charge an additional set-up for each.
Apples to apples, there shouldn't be much of a labor upcharge. Some of that comes from the additional weight of each block, but most of it comes from the addtional planning and layout that is required to make a sf project look good. Feedback from my masons was usually mixed, but most liked split-face because they only needed to focus on keeping one side of the wall (the smooth face) pretty. The other side is supposed to look rough and irregular. With smooth block, masons need to ensure both sides of the wall look good. This can be difficult because 8" block is actually 7 5/8" wide, with some variance, especially from different batches. So they could be laying a 7 1/2" wide block on top of a 7 9/16" block.
All that being said, colored split-face block is beautiful. If you intend to paint the exterior, it would not be worth the additional cost of using sf. Even when gray block is split, it exposes the multi-colored aggregate for a more beautiful finish.
BPJOOP93
Well-known member
The block go into a kiln that is around 100-110 degrees and extreemly high humidity due to the water that is misted into the kiln to cure the block.
the block are split as soon as they come out of the kiln, before they get completly cured [read somewhat green]. if they are let to dry for say a month they get real hard and are a ***** to split nicely. I used to work in a block plant thats how i know.