Split post...can't remove?? New garage

[tinysparky]

So my concrete was poured a month back and I am getting ready to go for the purlins and trusses when I realized I have a post that is cracked.


Thoughts?

Some type of steel? (Simpson or 1/4 plate???)

2x6's on all sides...?

Cut and splice somehow?


Crack is 32".

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[Itsjustdirt]

What does the post look like on the other sides? What does it look like if you hold a 4' or 6' level along it?

 

[tinysparky]

The crack goes through. A little wobbly that post is.

So it starts about 8' up. I will have a double truss around it at 14'. End wall. Low wind side. Posts on that side are spaced at 10' and the building is 40'. This is the second one in.

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[tinysparky]

The crack goes through. A little wobbly that post is.

So it starts about 8' up. I will have a double truss around it at 14'. End wall. Low wind side. Posts on that side are spaced at 10' and the building is 40'. This is the second one in.

I would be willing to plywood that side if it helped....which it would.

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[dave_dj1]

Send that post pack to the lumber yard, that is defective. This is why built up posts are stronger. Like what the "M" buildings use.

 

[jonshonda]

I came here for the split roast. I obviously misread the title.

 

[Musicinabottle]

It should have never been used in the first place but if it were me, I'd pop it out and redo it. At this point, easy to do. Later on, not so much.

 

[MagKarl]

End wall is not supporting the roof, so that's fortunate.

I would probably sister with 2x6 and 2x8. I'd run them full height so it's uniform, just wider than the rest.

Probably a 2x6 on the outside face that the sheeting will fasten to and 2x8's on the sides, then bookshelf girts.

 

[tinysparky]

It should have never been used in the first place but if it were me, I'd pop it out and redo it. At this point, easy to do. Later on, not so much.

It wasn't cracked when I put them in. Nor was it cracked when I poured 4' deep of concrete around....or the slab.

Unfortunately, cutting them out...I hope....is option 99/100.

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[tinysparky]

End wall is not supporting the roof, so that's fortunate.

I would probably sister with 2x6 and 2x8. I'd run them full height so it's uniform, just wider than the rest.

Probably a 2x6 on the outside face that the sheeting will fasten to and 2x8's on the sides, then bookshelf girts.

I like the idea of adding the bookshelf s. That would add more strength. For looks sake, I might just wrap the other middle end post to match if that is the direction I go.

Any thoughts about adding in some steel strapping underneath the 2" material?

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[77Birdman]

I think I would set a post beside it on top of the poured concrete that one is set into, then thru bolt the two together full height. Don't know if you get inspections but if you do you will more than likely have to replace or provide and engineers fix.

 

[joe--h]

Cut it off & drill out the remains from the concrete.
1" bit welded to a piece of 1/2" drill rod and 4' is no problem.
**** out the swarf with shop vac. Couple hours at the most.
Drop in the new post & you're done.
Joe H

 

[Radix2]

2x6 on both sides, good structural screws. And if they are decent quality, it will be stronger than your typical 6x6 with knots etc.

Keep it simple. Pulling it and ending up having to dig under your slab for no real gain doesn't make sense to me. Maybe you can pull and drop, maybe you end up with a huge mess.

 

[Musicinabottle]

It wasn't cracked when I put them in. Nor was it cracked when I poured 4' deep of concrete around....or the slab.

Unfortunately, cutting them out...I hope....is option 99/100.

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I'd just leave it and hang your truss from it. It'll be fine.

 

[dave_dj1]

Have you tried wrapping a chain around it and jacking it up out? Did you put any uplift bars in it before you poured? And why is it in 4' of concrete?
But at the end of the day, you will probably be fine just adding a 2x6 to each side of it. Some of the **** I've worked on over the years that has amazed me at how it could be still standing.

 

[Doug B]

I would run some 1/2" carriage bolts thru the post and overlay the other 2 sides with 2x6s.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

3/8 inch steel plates cut to width and extending a foot or so above and below the cracked section. Plate it on both sides that will not interfere with the truss and through bolt it.
( My free internet opinion)

 

[SALIV8]

Id talk to a structural engineer.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Did you buy at a big box store or a lumber yard ? A actual lumberyard might make it right if you want to sister it and glue/screw it by giving the two boards to do it rather than have you try to pull it out. . . . especially if you are buying the rest of the lumber for the build from them.

 

[lakeroadster]

End wall is not supporting the roof, so that's fortunate.

That's a dangerous assumption without seeing the end truss drawing. Many pole buildings have different trusses for the end walls and the columns indeed do support the roof weight.

The columns at the end wall also see significant wind loading.

Steel plates with through bolting, as Big Bad Dad suggested, is about the only option short of post replacement.

I think I would set a post beside it on top of the poured concrete that one is set into, then thru bolt the two together full height.

Don't do this ^^^.

It's called a floating slab for a reason. the slab will move independent of the columns.

What's your location tinysparky?