Spot Weld bit

[the fab shack]

I have lived up here for over a year now and I havent seen 1 'truck brand' driving around. So I am pretty stuck to buying craftsman, but does anyone know if craftsman makes a spot weld drill bit? if not, who all does so i can search ebay and deal with it that way. I need it to pull the cab of my truck off the frame.

 

[wilbilt]

I have used the Blair type extensively. They work pretty well, but make sure you have a supply of extra cutters in the size you need.

Sometimes they snag and break a tooth, etc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blai...011QQitemZ320201635392QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[the fab shack]

I will have to look into those, never seen em like that. My stepdad has a snap on bit that looks almost like a glass drill bit (tile bit the same thing).. but i like having the different sizes that kit includes.

 

[wilbilt]

The Blairs have a spring-loaded center pin to prevent the cutter from wandering. You centerpunch the weld and the circular cutter removes very little metal, leaving a nice round hole for re-welding later.

 

[brianpgriset]

The Blairs have a spring-loaded center pin to prevent the cutter from wandering. You centerpunch the weld and the circular cutter removes very little metal, leaving a nice round hole for re-welding later.

I have one of these types as well. They work great. Infact on one bit I drilled out over 600 spot welds!

 

[arkracing]

I use the Blair Spot Weld Cutters as well. 3/8" is the most common size for body panels. Some of the structural stuff might be a little bigger 1/2" or so. You should be able to get the "Arbor" and the cutters @ your local "Autobody Supplier". The Blair cutters have 2 sides - so if you break some teeth you can reverse it and have a new cutter. A package of 3 cutters (which is really 6) is about $15 I think.

The spring in the centering pin is pretty stiff. I like to center punch the welds, drill them with a 1/8" bit and then use the cutter. You really have to push down when using the springed center pin, and as soon and you move the bit a little sideways it will break a tooth off. Not only that but it fatigues the user - especially when your doing something like a quarterpanel.

Use a variable speed drill and go slow with the cutters - the will work better and last a lot longer.

 

[Stanger]

The Blairs don't have two sides, unless I am thinking of something different. I had a kit from Matco that was Blair. The bits were one-sided. I also had a cheap Chinese kit that had bits that were two-sided. Both sides only lasted as long as maybe 1/10 of the single sided bit. They were junk.
Grant

 

[the fab shack]

This looks like the kit I will end up getting. I am sure I will use it more then just getting my core away from my inner fenders and the inners away from the firewall.

Thanks a lot guys!

 

[brianpgriset]

The set I got from Blair only had one-sided bits but I have seen those with both. Replacement bits are cheap and easy to find. Also, the amount of resistance force given by the center pin can be changed by threading the hex screw on the back of the arbor in or out. That way you can make it hard or easy to push on.

 

[Stanger]

The set I got from Blair only had one-sided bits but I have seen those with both.

I stand corrected!

 

[arkracing]

Right on the home page - scroll down to see the double sided cutters. The nice thing about them too is the "Shoulder" will let you cut through about 2 thickness of sheetmetal. So if you cut about 1/2 the cutter depth you can usually tell that you are through the first panel.

Looks like you can only get them in 3/8" though , but that is ok if you do a lot of body panel replacement

http://www.blairequipment.com/Spotweld_Cutters/Spotweld_Cutters.html