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spray foam around electical outlets

machsnell

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i have heard that sprayfoam is very flammable.

I have wired the outlets in my garage and will be getting it sprayfoamed with open cell.

do i ask for a flame retardant in the sp foam (?possible) or do i need to spray something on the foam that is evident where the wires come through?

thanks
 
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rockwithjason

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the propellant is usually where the real danger is. i would suspect that once the foam is dry there would be much reduced risk.
 

pablo94sc

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The foam is toxic when burned, and it will burn, but it's safe enough for using around electrical boxes to seal air gaps, just make sure you don't get any inside the boxes. I also don't recommend using foam over wiring or plumbing because it's a nightmare to remove in case of an issue (leaky pipe, for example). Use fiberglass in those locations instead.
 

Mustang51js

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The orange can of spray foam is fire resistant,just make sure you don't get it on yourself,it could take a couple days to wear off
 

ishiboo

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The orange can of spray foam is fire resistant,just make sure you don't get it on yourself,it could take a couple days to wear off

No more so than the yellow cans. The only difference is the color.

I foam in all my boxes... it makes them sturdier and quieter and eliminates air leaks.
 

nick2010tundra

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The Orange is just so its easier for the inspector to see it, required by code in many areas that all wire and pipe penetrations through floors must be air sealed
 

stealthmagic27

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Im pretty sure the Fireblock foam is actually rated to a higher temp or they would have some kind of lawsuit on their hands for the claims. But I don't see it a problem spraying around the outside of the boxes not in...could always just turn the electricity off have the foam sprayed then turn back on when dry and cured.
 
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machsnell

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I am having the walls and ceiling foamed. Should I go spray lightly around the back of my outlet boxes before they come or not worry about it? Added precaution?
 

ishiboo

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Im pretty sure the Fireblock foam is actually rated to a higher temp or they would have some kind of lawsuit on their hands for the claims. But I don't see it a problem spraying around the outside of the boxes not in...could always just turn the electricity off have the foam sprayed then turn back on when dry and cured.

It's not. It's the exact same foam, in a different color. I'm not sure what claims you are referring to. They specifically say it is not for use in firestop systems.

In the small cans they charge 2-3X as much for the orange. I have a foam gun, and the only can they have of regular foam is orange and it's the same price as the smaller yellow cans.

No need to shut the electricity off, unless you have an outlet that is emitting sparks... in which case I would take care of that before the foaming process. :beer:
 

ishiboo

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I am having the walls and ceiling foamed. Should I go spray lightly around the back of my outlet boxes before they come or not worry about it? Added precaution?

Ask them, but I would assume they cover that and their foam gets behind everything.
 
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wssix99

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I have wired the outlets in my garage and will be getting it sprayfoamed with open cell.

You are talking about open cell spray foam insulation right? (Not the sealant stuff in the can.)

If so, this stuff is rated for contact with the electrical boxes. As was said above, its just the solvents and propellants in the foam that are flammable and they will evaporate as the foam cures. (They will also give you a wild buzz.)

The thing with the open cell foam is that it is very very messy. So, I'd recommend double checking your insulators taping job to make sure every place you don't want foam is masked off. The stuff is very difficult to get off with out harsh solvents, which can destroy plastics and other materials.

I'd also recommend making sure your garage and other floors are covered/protected. The foam guns bleed out "goo" and if your insulators aren't careful, they can add a stain to your garage floor. (They did this in mine in a spot where they weren't careful. Fortunately, my epoxy coating covered it up. Had I not been doing that, there would have been hell to pay.)

BTW - Closed cell is much cleaner.
 

stealthmagic27

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It's not. It's the exact same foam, in a different color. I'm not sure what claims you are referring to. They specifically say it is not for use in firestop systems.

In the small cans they charge 2-3X as much for the orange. I have a foam gun, and the only can they have of regular foam is orange and it's the same price as the smaller yellow cans.

Sooo...Why on the fireblock can says, tested according to ASTM E84, ASTM E814 which fire standards for fireblocking.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-ST...m-Sealant-16-oz-345372/202023037?N=5yc1vZbaxj


It doesn't say this on the regular cans...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-ST...ng-Foam-Sealant-162848/100003351?N=5yc1vZbaxj
 
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machsnell

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Ws699,
Yes open cell sprayed by insulation contractor. Understood on evaporating solvents and the buzz. I had just heard that the foam in general was very flammable.

Also Gotcha on the messy portion. I will be grinding the floor with dimabrush so I am not too worried about that but I will tell them to be careful anyway. As far as the other areas I will make sure they tape up well which there isn't much.

Closed cell was better but also much more expensive from my guy and I know it would need less but was still a lot more and I am stretching to get sprayfoam to begin with.

Thanks for info.
 

PaulyC

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if you read the back of the fireblock foam can it says its a smoke barrier only. we use the **** all the time and even though an inspector will accept it, its not technically any more fire proof than the regular foam.
 

wssix99

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I had just heard that the foam in general was very flammable.

Yea, that's just when its wet.


Also Gotcha on the messy portion. I will be grinding the floor with dimabrush so I am not too worried about that but I will tell them to be careful anyway.

The goo that comes out when they are purging the lines is heavy in solvents, so it really soaks in to the concrete. We ground our floor before the epoxy and the stain went far below the surface.

If I had it to do all over again, I would have supervised the insulation contractor for every minute they were on site... with a sledgehammer in my hand.
 
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machsnell

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Good info I will make sure I am there when they do it I want to be anyway. That's crazy that it went so deep into concrete. I have to watch them in the attic area as well.
 

ishiboo

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Sooo...Why on the fireblock can says, tested according to ASTM E84, ASTM E814 which fire standards for fireblocking.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-ST...m-Sealant-16-oz-345372/202023037?N=5yc1vZbaxj


It doesn't say this on the regular cans...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-ST...ng-Foam-Sealant-162848/100003351?N=5yc1vZbaxj

Because the want you to use the fire block foam for fire blocking, as you pay twice as much for it? And the orange color is required for inspection, so why would they pay to have the half-price can tested?

Read the MSDS at Home Depot for each. Look at "Composition Information". It is EXACTLY the same composition.
 

ishiboo

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if you read the back of the fireblock foam can it says its a smoke barrier only. we use the **** all the time and even though an inspector will accept it, its not technically any more fire proof than the regular foam.

Yeah. It's a smoke/superheated air/etc. barrier. It slows the spread of fire. Hence the term "fireblock".

Realize where you use this - usually to plug a hole in a piece of WOOD! Which most of us would consider flammable :)

This is different than a fire-rated wall assembly like concrete, gypsum, etc... where penetrations are sealed with firestop - usually caulk, clay, etc... rated for a specific exposure time under specific conditions, and heavily tested.
 
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