Spray foam - protecting it

[coalminer16]

I have just spray foam insulated my 30x40 shop ceiling and walls. I will also be doing the 60x72 new addition soon. I do weld, grind, torch cut and plasma cut along with chop saw cut. The person who sprayed said it can but threw the foam. He said they make a fire proofing paint that is only sold in 5 gallon jugs and is $500. He said it does pretty good and he has times were people will split the order of the paint up so I wouldn't have to buy all 5 gal.

Another option is we have the tin that has light hail damage from the roof that is white. I could go vertical between the poles since they stick out a good 4 inches past the foam (the poles do- don't want to give up the space). Might look a little odd and working around some utilities will also be a challenge.

Osb board is a option similar to the tin.

Thoughts? Just leave and watch the sparks? Cover just where I could get sparks? Cover it all to make it look uniform?

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[MrSurly]

Most will agree that spray foam is quite hideous to look at.
That reason alone may be all you need to justify covering it up. A uniform interior wall appearance is super nice to have. In MY shop build, I sprayed it and have left it uncovered. Because of this plan, the foam on the lower walls is closed-cell while above about seven foot is open-cell.
The closed-cell is pretty rugged and so far my welding/cutting/fabbing hasn’t had much effect on the stuff.
But it IS ugly.

Also, it darkens when hit with UV, eventually turning a dark orange to umber color

Texas 30x40x14 Budget Post Frame Self-Build
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[Slowgsr]

I would cover it. That stuff lights watch out. I've seen it.

Should stud the walls 24" oc and hang type x. Here its code that spray foam (all foam) must be covered

 

[Aerospace Eng]

Under building codes, spray foam must be protected by a fire block, and is not rated for exposure to the interior.

Covering with sheet metal is not considered a fire block.

Typically, there is an intumescent surface coating that must be sprayed on the foam (generally not allowed in living spaces which may or may not include your garage depending on jurisdiction), or you cover with drywall or some other approved barrier.

Note that polystyrene sheets must also be covered. The only product I have found that does not need to be covered is foil faced poly-iso.

 

[coalminer16]

Interesting. Although that doesn't change the fact I have the spray foam already. I can tell you I can't afford to sheet rock the whole thing, only reason I have the tin is due to roof replacement from hail/insurance. I will take the "ugliness" to have a tight shop.

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[Nivekdodge]

Also looking for something cheap to cover it that doesn't require mudding the seams. But I tell everyone , Fiberglass is for Boats

 

[MrSurly]

Also looking for something cheap to cover it that doesn't require mudding the seams. But I tell everyone , Fiberglass is for Boats

Ha! I’m using that!


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[Dragfluid]

Please Cover it.
Watch this. Skip to 3:10 if you want. This is one of the reasons why I went with dense pack cellulose.

 

[dcg9381]

I don't know that paint will protect it, but I have seen it painted.
I think you need to cover it too. On my building, I've been slowly "framing in" areas and I've found that the least expensive way for (me) to do it is finalizing with OSB. I'm not interesting in using drywall either. Basically, I do it to 12' high.

Could steel sheet it also...

 

[Marctrees]

Take a loose chunk of foam from YOUR building and take a propane torch to it.

Torch cut a scrap piece of steel and have the spray go onto another test chunk.

Then decide if you need to cover it.

Marc

 

[coalminer16]

Did that. Torched it and surprised it doesn't burn as much as I thought it would. But I see what the paint does as well. 1 gallon covers 70 square feet and is 100/gal and comes in 5 gal pails. I may do a few locations. Not as worried now and not covering with drywall. Funny seeing how the uv light darkens it - had an odd cut shaped plywood leaning against it for a few weeks and it has a shadow there now.

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[meathooker]

Osb is pretty cheap right now. Just bought a couple bunks to cover mine at a later date.

 

[jkeyser14]

Osb is pretty cheap right now. Just bought a couple bunks to cover mine at a later date.

OSB is not a rated fire barrier.

 

[lakeroadster]

...In MY shop... it darkens when hit with UV, eventually turning a dark orange to umber color

Most spray foam is not UV rated and will break down if the sun shines on it and it is not covered or painted.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

I can tell you I can't afford to sheet rock the whole thing

I just did the math for you: a 30x40 by 12 foot tall space needs 35 sheets of 4x12 drywall. Menards advertises a 5/8" 4x12 sheet for $17. That's $595 retail. You should be able to get that down to $500 picked up or maybe $550 delivered if you buy from a drywall supplier. So call it $1,000 with tape, mud, paint and an extra sheet or two for you to break.

That's only two buckets of fire paint.

I like to use paper tape in the corners and fibafuse on flat seams. I set tape in brown bag 90 (durabond) then easy sand over that. Easy & quick.

I think people are crazy for using anything but firecode drywall on walls.

 

[purplezr2]

I just did the math for you: a 30x40 by 12 foot tall space needs 35 sheets of 4x12 drywall. Menards advertises a 5/8" 4x12 sheet for $17. That's $595 retail. You should be able to get that down to $500 picked up or maybe $550 delivered if you buy from a drywall supplier. So call it $1,000 with tape, mud, paint and an extra sheet or two for you to break.

That's only two buckets of fire paint.

I like to use paper tape in the corners and fibafuse on flat seams. I set tape in brown bag 90 (durabond) then easy sand over that. Easy & quick.

I think people are crazy for using anything but firecode drywall on walls.

It is 10 bucks a sheet if you buy on sale or 11% off. You get a volume discount over 26 sheets. Easy to hang also.

 

[lakeroadster]

I think people are crazy for using anything but firecode drywall on walls.

Is to not use drywall

The guy is building a working shop where he grinds, welds, etc. Drywall isn't durable enough for such an application.

 

[BitDrive]

I just had my closed cell foam painted this week because of the flammability and the OP's original question. The stuff is expensive @ $300 for a 5 gallon pail, unfortunately other than flame barrier paint one of your only other option is drywall, depending on your location and required codes...

I almost didn't do it until I started reading about how flammable this stuff really is and figured it wasn't worth screwing around with life and limb. The brand I used is IFTI, product DC315 available in white, light gray and black. Smells horrible during the curing process but looks like regular paint. I'll post pics once I have enough posts to do so.

 

[coalminer16]

After putting a torch to the foam piece I am really not worried about burning down the place. A hot coal could melt through it but still not go up in flames. I couldn't get it to sustain burning when I took the torch away.

I have no windows in the shop so I am not as concerned with uv deteriorating it too much. In MN summers you keep th shop closed for the heat and humidity and winter for the cold.

Yes the math shows that the drywall itself isn't as bad - still have to stud the walls to support it. More screws, ect. And as stated drywall will be beat up pretty fast.

Ultimate would be the fiberglass coated osb for the fire rating and strength. We'll see. Would really need to stud up the wall as much for that.

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[coalminer16]

Ok, that gets more expensive. I figure rough math and not doing the open ceilings with any covering it would be around $5k to do the 30x40 and 60x72.

Might look into it though for a few heavy use areas since it is strong and can screw things to it and it wouldn't require studding up the wall - or at least not as much.

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[Marctrees]

"After putting a torch to the foam piece I am really not worried about burning down the place. A hot coal could melt through it but still not go up in flames. I couldn't get it to sustain burning when I took the torch away."

I also tested a few pieces and came away w same results.

My test samples were all Closed cell, did not yet test any OC.

It MAY vary brand to brand, I dunno.

Marc

 

[Falcon67]

OSB is not a rated fire barrier.

Works well enough in a shop. If there are specific places where grinding/et al throws sparks at the wall and it worries the OP, put up some concrete board or Hardipanel.

 

[fitter30]

Welding curtain or dividers.

 

[MrSurly]

I’ve tried to stay out of this argument as I’m not likely to change any minds, but I do get annoyed by the popularity of the “fire test” video clip created and promoted by *Cellulose Insulation Manufacturers Association.* do you think it’s possible that the competing product association might offer an unbiased report? No.
While the clip shown is not actually lying, it is not the whole story, at least as applied to our specific pole barn type builds.
If you are building a stud-wall as shown, then yes, what they show could be accurate. What they chose not to include from the *complete* test series (you can find it googling) was that in the absence of stud-walls, the same foam *could be* set aflame but once the artificial fuel source was removed, the flame FAILED TO PROPOGATE, in other words, it essentially self-extinguished. In a pole barn withOUT studs (like mine) the scenario selected by CIMA for propaganda purposes would not apply.
There is a longer video showing several different scenarios and the gist of it is that if you create a test room and fill it full of studs for fuel, then yes, you could have a really bad fire. The fire shown in that video, though, is not actually foam-fueled, it’s WOOD-fueled. Granted, if you have that scenario, such as in a house, concern should be high, especially regarding vapors and smoke.
In my pole barn, the idea that “that stuff lights up!” is Balderdash.



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[coalminer16]

Well, great things can come from Facebook market place. Found 110 sheets for $7 each. He doing rental housing and gets homeowners discounts for them but doesn't store the extra and just smells them. This is of the fire rated osb. More in the future.

So to be proper code does this technically need to do the ceiling? Again this is open design and I may not go code to attempt the ceiling. But the walls would be nice to protect my spray foam and have a base to put some things like signs and light shelving.

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[coalminer16]

Also want to add from what I am finding the first spray foams didn't have antifire additives where most of the newer ones do now and have for years.

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[BitDrive]

...So to be proper code does this technically need to do the ceiling? Again this is open design and I may not go code to attempt the ceiling. But the walls would be nice to protect my spray foam and have a base to put some things like signs and light shelving.

May depend on your location, worth a call to your County Building office... But more than likely yes.

 

[BitDrive]

I’ve tried to stay out of this argument as I’m not likely to change any minds, but I do get annoyed by the popularity of the “fire test” video clip created and promoted by *Cellulose Insulation Manufacturers Association.* do you think it’s possible that the competing product association might offer an unbiased report? ...

...In my pole barn, the idea that “that stuff lights up!” is Balderdash.

I couldn't agree more with your sentiment. But unfortunately its code where I live and I fear that Insurance companies love avoiding pay-outs on people who don't meet the minimum code requirements in a fire. When I opted to paint ours it wasn't the flame that concerned me it was the smoke.

 

[BitDrive]

Also want to add from what I am finding the first spray foams didn't have antifire additives where most of the newer ones do now and have for years.

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Very True, I believe they are much safer than when they first arrived to the scene.