Spray paint prep question...

[LouG]

Hi everyone....I'm working on a more proper intro thread, but I came across a little issue over the weekend that I'm hoping to get some guidance on first.

I have some Steelcase binder-bin doors that I'm painting. Right now I'm really more concerned about perfecting my technique, so the bad results don't bother me. The door received three coats of Rustoleum Gloss Enamel spray paint, all within 5-10 minutes of each other. After sitting for two days, I gave it a couple coats of their Automotive clear coat. Almost immediately the clear coat began to crow's feet all over the painted finish. It was literally lifting the paint right off the metal. Should I have sanded the smooth surface prior to painting? Is it due to the clear coat not being compatible with the spray paint? I've got six 60" x "18 binder-bins that I want to refinish, so while I don't mind practicing my technique, I do want to get this right. The thread discussing the Lista Cabinet Repaint got me started on the idea of repainting the binder-bins. I tried attaching a pic of the carnage, but either the pic is too large or the function isn't working properly.

Any ideas......?

 

[ZRX61]

Compatibility issue.

 

[jhelrey]

Agreed

 

[BAZZMAZZA]

Could be a compatability issue but I have had good luck with paints that are of the same manufacture. I used the exact paints you decribe RUSTOLEUM enamel and then clearcoat but I did not wait two days I sprayed it just as if I were adding another coat to the paint ( I think the directions on the can mention this procedure) . If I were going to spray two days after I initially painted I would have sanded lightly to get the gloss of at least (220 grit).
In any case I do try and allways check compatability and even then will test the paints on something laying in the garage just to be sure. I have learned the hard way and have ruined some nice finishes only to start over. Hope this helps.

 

[welderwade]

hi there..you can not let the paint dry with those types of paint before clear coating because of curing time is very slow it may seem dry to touch but not dry completely so when you put on the clear coat the solvent gets under and open it up....hope this helps

 

[LouG]

Thanks guys. I need to go back and see if the can mentions in how much time to apply the clear.

But here's the thing...should I have roughed up the metal finish before starting to paint?

 

[930dreamer]

Thanks guys. I need to go back and see if the can mentions in how much time to apply the clear.

But here's the thing...should I have roughed up the metal finish before starting to paint?

I always clean the metal with solvent, sand it, prime it, sand again and top coat. I haven't used any clear yet.

 

[Kevin54]

Look good at the cans you have. The Rustoleum is Enamel and the clear you sprayed is more than likely Lacquer. Lacquer over enamel will raise the paint but for some odd reason, enamel over lacquer won't. Enamel has a lot longer drying time. If the can says "Quick Dry", "Fast Dry", or "Dries in Minutes" it is more than likely lacquer based.

 

[jasonreck71]

Thanks guys. I need to go back and see if the can mentions in how much time to apply the clear.

But here's the thing...should I have roughed up the metal finish before starting to paint?

I always make it a habit to rough up the metal. I don't have any proof that it works. just what my dad taught me and I have never had any issues, so you know if it's been working for me I won't change it

 

[srmofo]

I have personally used that exact clear coat over various types of rustoleum spray with zero issues. My guess is your prep work is the issue. I always break the surface of the existing paint then give it a thorough rinse, followed by a final wipe down with solvent. Blow off all the water and let out let it air dry.

Iirc the directions say to spray the clear coat within 1 hour or wait 2 full days. However with these low temps drying times are increased.

I also like to warm the cans in hot water for several minutes before starting

 

[MoonRise]

Always RTFM, or in this case RTFL (labels).

That tells you the recommended/required surface prep, as well as dry times, recoat times, etc, etc.

Then, if you are 'mixing' different paint types and/or manufacturers, you may also have to go check the websites or call the paint makers' Tech lines.

And if using different paint types/manufacturers, sometimes it comes down to doing a test piece to check for possible incompatabilities between the different finishes.