Spring compressors for home use: which design is better?
- Thread starter qqzj
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I sorta-agree with you that it isn't made to use on large heavy-duty springs. I've used mine on my Odyssey, X5, Mini and old BMW, as well as a buddy's Volvo XC90. It's been perfect and predictable in all those applications. All of the folks who I've loaned it to have used it for similar vehicles (i.e. no pickup trucks or heavy-duty SUV's). I wouldn't recommend or use it for those bigger vehicles.
Low cost comes from being extremely simple and making them in a relative quantity. I'd guess the vast majority of the cost involved with these things is the shipping. I don't think the material cost here is very much at all, so $120 and up isn't ultra-low IMHO.
You're making an assumption that there's no testing/etc. - this is not a new design. And you're imagining/implying the rest - pure hysterics based on zero facts. In the face of many documented accounts of death sticks being dangerous you're making up scary stories about an alternative. Absolutely zero mechanics I know (including the BMW Master Tech who ran the shop at one of the largest BMW dealerships in the country) recommend the death sticks, especially in unskilled/inexperienced hands (which is what I was when I first used this thing on the old BMW). Obviously they can be used safely, but the plates are a more appropriate and safer way to compress the spring.
As a rule, I don't trust anything holding weight or energy. I put wheels in as backups when I'm using stands, etc., so when I have used my spring compressor I've kept that sucker pointed away from me (on both ends) and made sure to be slow and careful compressing/uncompressing the spring. I'd be willing to bet a non-trivial number of the (few) failures noted in reviews are dingles who are putting an impact on that nut or using it on their pickup/similar springs.
If your argument is to buy the Schwaben model over a generic eBay one because Schwaben ostensibly has put some level of QC requirements on their supplier, I can agree with that (though only because I have a little experience with Schwaben and their tools).
If I had a truck, I'd probably take the whole assembly to my tire shop and let them do the struts for me. They'd charge me an hour of labor and it would be worth it. I'd also do that 100% over using death sticks, as much because I'm the guy that all the unlikely stuff seems to happen to...
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Some "traditional" auto parts store will swap in new struts for a fee. I'm not sure if you have to buy the replacement struts there, but if is included in the price it might be worth it.
Your making an assumption they are tested and have adequate budget going into material quality and general manufacture QC .
Low cost comes from copying rather than developing a product and simplifying design to suite easier/available manufacture, original development had testing but the chinese copies are highly unlikely see any testing or QC (I seen copied tools that can't even work as manufacture changes made tool unusable in actual real world use but as they never tried it they don't know and materials used in some areas is anyones guess . not all are made equal on the no brand kits and you got be mindful of that, I seen plenty of unfit for purpose specialist tool kits from eBay and amazon and I also got a couple that actually pretty good . Just don't assume they all fit for purpose when buying generic chinese specialist tool clones .
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I'm sorry, but most of that is hysterical (and I don't mean the funny kind) fiction. Shooting in the dark on eBay has its risks, but you're dramatically over-stating what we see in the US market. But whatever - I'm done with this one.
If you look hard enough you will start to see .
you can get help with your blindness and I will get some medication for my hysteria lol ...
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matt stott
Well-known member
I have the Eastwood-branded version that M635 has, and it has worked fine for the dozen or so times I have needed it - all on small cars. I still hold my breath and cross my fingers every time, though, but that tool has never even flinched/creaked/bent/complained when in use. I saw that eastwood also has a newer, more expensive version of the compressor, and it looks a bit sturdier. I will probably pick up one of those the next time I have a bunch of struts to remove....
Matt
Matt
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VolvoRyan
Well-known member
The reality here is that none of us are making very good arguments (myself included). No apples to apples comparisons. No empirical data. We're running with anecdotes and hearsay (my master tech can beat up yours!), combined with that none of us have blown out all of our teeth, to justify our decision. Unless you're a mechanical engineer, you have no business saying that *any* of these products are a better design.
It's a heated debate, as it should be. Lots at stake.
Someone with a hydraulic press should just test this out.
-Ryan
It's a heated debate, as it should be. Lots at stake.
Someone with a hydraulic press should just test this out.
-Ryan
The design is certainly better to use, I've used most styles over 30 years of working in the industry.
Simple concern is you got be bit careful on the chinese copy tools when high loads are present .
I seen more than one of these non branded that would flex to point you wouldn't risk tighten it further, thread wear and fixing strength is another area can be problem, just look at the wheel beering and BJ kits that fubar after 1 or 2 uses .
If you actually compare the eastwood shown in post #47 you see it actually different design with fixed spring cups and more heavy duty, the interchangable spring cup versions are not rated to 4000lbs (tend be between 1500 and 2500lbs)
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This the exact problem I trying highlight, people saying things same when they are not . people need look at products far far harder .
The one shown in your image is not the same, it a fixed spring cup heavy duty crmo fabricated steel version and includes 2 safety wires, Eastwood also do the interchangeable spring cup version but from branded ones I used which had product specs load ratings I seen is 2500max and lowest was 1250lbs .
I not seen a spec from eastwood on load rating for interchangeable cup style model they got, lot of branded and unbranded like skip over that detail on the interchangeable spring cup models .
I seen the 8milelake listed with numbers suggesting 9000lbs which is obvious baloney. Most of these chinese interchangable spring cup version are actually likely closer to 850kg/1900lbs rating for a good one .
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matt stott
Well-known member
Apologies for not being clear in my post... I have the eastwood interchangeable cup version. It has worked well for me, in my light duty use, and I certainly realize that this could change in an instant, and that is why I was looking for a heavier-duty version and came across that other one from eastwood- that is the photo I attached.
^
Yes the interchangeable cup version was designed for light duty car strut style coil spring assemblies .
I'm sure the eastwood branded ones pretty decent used within its limits, the no brand ones are more questionable on actual strength .
Biggest dislike I have is that design had no safety, would of been easy add link slots either side of spring cups for 2 safety chains .
Yes the interchangeable cup version was designed for light duty car strut style coil spring assemblies .
I'm sure the eastwood branded ones pretty decent used within its limits, the no brand ones are more questionable on actual strength .
Biggest dislike I have is that design had no safety, would of been easy add link slots either side of spring cups for 2 safety chains .
Handyandy23
Well-known member
I've used the "death sticks" design many times and never felt like I was particularly in danger (except for one time I'll go into more detail about). That clamshell style is literally two "death sticks" that are linked together by one screw, which is essentially just an idiot proofing of the same old design by making it so both "death sticks" compress at the same rate. If I were re-buying I'm not sure I would pay double the price for some error proofing when the design is nearly the same, and it looks to take up a lot more storage space. If anything the clamshell design is putting a lot more stress on the single screw, so a knock off version of this might not last long.
Honestly I don't think the sticks are that bad, as long as you get at least decent quality ones, if you use them properly. I think they get their reputation because they aren't idiot-proofed like a lot of things, and the world has a lot of idiots. You need to tighten the pair of them progressively a little at a time, and then remove them the same way. And have them as close to opposite sides of the spring as possible. But too many people want to impact one side all the way tight and then the other side, which bulges the spring in a very lopsided way and can cause it to pop out.
I do agree with @Mr_B to a degree on the quality. I borrowed a set of death sticks from a buddy before I bought my own, and they were the "cheaper" Chinese knock offs that had the smaller silver hooks. I was compressing lowering springs for my Trans Am, which are short and very high spring rate, and I noticed the cheap pot metal hooks on one side were forming stress cracks. Fortunately I was able to back them off slowly side to side and remove it before it totally let go. I went out and bought the beefier version with the more block-like spring hooks (and safety pins) and had no issues since. I don't think you necessarily need to go out and buy the world's most expensive set, but something mid-grade is probably a lot better peace of mind.
I also don't think this is a strike against "death sticks" since it was the metal hook itself failing, and every style compressor is going to have high stress hooks or other contact points with the springs. Whatever style you get, it needs to be decent enough quality that the material itself is going to hold up to the job.
Honestly I don't think the sticks are that bad, as long as you get at least decent quality ones, if you use them properly. I think they get their reputation because they aren't idiot-proofed like a lot of things, and the world has a lot of idiots. You need to tighten the pair of them progressively a little at a time, and then remove them the same way. And have them as close to opposite sides of the spring as possible. But too many people want to impact one side all the way tight and then the other side, which bulges the spring in a very lopsided way and can cause it to pop out.
I do agree with @Mr_B to a degree on the quality. I borrowed a set of death sticks from a buddy before I bought my own, and they were the "cheaper" Chinese knock offs that had the smaller silver hooks. I was compressing lowering springs for my Trans Am, which are short and very high spring rate, and I noticed the cheap pot metal hooks on one side were forming stress cracks. Fortunately I was able to back them off slowly side to side and remove it before it totally let go. I went out and bought the beefier version with the more block-like spring hooks (and safety pins) and had no issues since. I don't think you necessarily need to go out and buy the world's most expensive set, but something mid-grade is probably a lot better peace of mind.
I also don't think this is a strike against "death sticks" since it was the metal hook itself failing, and every style compressor is going to have high stress hooks or other contact points with the springs. Whatever style you get, it needs to be decent enough quality that the material itself is going to hold up to the job.
My apologies as you are pretty clear but people looking at image and 4000lbs rating likely going think it linked to the interchangeable cup version.
When you can get branded versions from pretty well trusted companies for well under 200bucks I got no idea why people would buy options like 8milelake mekaniks and no brand no instructions or specs yet freak out at safety of death sticks !
This is exact issue you got when buy the chinese no brand stuff, fittings that should be forged are likely cast, mild steel or construction steel used over crmo, pins and threads not rating they should be .
the death stick that use billet steel block heads with a pin that slides in so spring can't back out and come in set of 3 or used in 3s rather than a pair are pretty safe mixed with common sense .
Garbage quality mixed with a fukwit is a recipe for problems regardless of design ...
Handyandy23
Well-known member
We don't have AutoZone in Canada so I'm not too familiar with their quality, but I would say any of the ones from the auto parts store "loan a tool" programs are decent quality. They've survived being used by a lot of knuckleheads, and the store isn't going to loan out tools that break all the time for free. I think the reason they loan or rent them is because they last long enough to not be a financial burden.
duneslider
Well-known member
I have the OTC clamshell spring compressor and it has served me well. I will say that on my expedition the coil diameter just barely fit the tool and it was difficult to get the safety pins in and out. It worked but I know I have seen coils that have a bigger diameter than what is on my expedition. I have also used it on my jeep's springs and it worked great on those (smaller diameter) and was super fast. Anyway, I like the tool. It was expensive but I felt it worked great. The HF looks pretty much the same and I doubt it would be less safe, worst case is the screw portion breaks and it extends back to the original length the spring can't leave the tool. Very unlikely the steel would break. Anyway, works for me and I like it. If I did this a lot I would totally get the Branick though, they are very nice to work with.
TheWanderer
Well-known member
n8n
Well-known member
I ran into this on my 335i (E92)
The coils (very soft, BMW actually relies on the bump stops to provide progressive springing - really!) went into bind with my "normal" spring compressors before the spring unseated. I had to do some sketchy **** with the Advance loaner compressors to get the job done. I want to say I had to grab the spring seat on the strut housing to get the spring to unseat so I could get the strut bearing off. Obviously this made it impossible to use the safety pins so I was very careful of where my body and appendages were WRT the strut assembly at all times.