Square D special breaker?

[Codyboy]

I have a breaker that feeds part of my aerobic septic system and it will not turn on.
It's a SqD like a QO with the little trip window but has screws on both ends instead of a stab type.
It's not tripping out , it just won't turn on.
I have just bypassed that breaker for now and running the clock and the pump straight off the buss bar.
It's all still protected from the 20A that feeds the whole setup.
What is that type breaker called so I can look for a replacement?
Doubtful a box store would carry it.

 

[mike93lx]

QOU115 - Mini circuit breaker, QOU, 15A, 1 pole, 120/240VAC, 10kA | Schneider Electric USA

Schneider Electric USA. QOU115 - Mini circuit breaker, QOU, 15A, 1 pole, 120/240VAC, 10kA.

www.se.com

 

[Firebrick43]

Whats going on that there is so much corrosion inside the box? Do you live close to the ocean?

 

[Codyboy]

Whats going on that there is so much corrosion inside the box? Do you live close to the ocean?

Not close really , maybe 100 miles or less.
I think the corrosion is from the moisture coming in through the electrical conduits that go down into the septic tank for the aerators and sub pump.

 

[larry4406]

Not close really , maybe 100 miles or less.
I think the corrosion is from the moisture coming in through the electrical conduits that go down into the septic tank for the aerators and sub pump.

I would agree on the source.

Add duct seal.

 

[manwithtools]

I think the corrosion is from the moisture coming in through the electrical conduits that go down into the septic tank for the aerators and sub pump.

Yep, those conduits probably should have been sealed with silicone caulk. Too late now.

 

[Codyboy]

Yep, those conduits probably should have been sealed with silicone caulk. Too late now.

Yeah if I ever redo it I will.
I would have 20 years ago but figured the septic company that did the install would have.
I do know that there is some silicone in the tank side where the wires are in the conduit.
Not sure if both conduits are siliconed though.

Eta
To clarify, not the side of the tank but inside the tank where the wires exit the conduit.

 

[alfredeneuman]

mike931x Has nailed it and you can buy it online at their marketplace

 

[mm08822]

Is that nmb in the conduit?

 

[mm08822]

May want replace all 3 while you take 1 minute to duct seal the conduits.

Otherwise, it's going to continue degrading.

 

[manwithtools]

May want replace all 3 while you take 1 minute to duct seal the conduits.

Otherwise, it's going to continue degrading.

Actually replacing all the components would be cheap insurance.

mike931x Has nailed it and you can buy it online at their marketplace

Any number of places to buy that breaker online that will be less money.

 

[Codyboy]

Is that nmb in the conduit?

Looks like it is. Thats what the septic installers used.

May want replace all 3 while you take 1 minute to duct seal the conduits.

Otherwise, it's going to continue degrading.

At 40 bucks each , I'll do one at a time.
Or just leave it bypassed. As I said it's still protected by the 20A in the breaker panel that feeds this mess.
I think the only reason there are individual breakers in there is for troubleshooting and each component can be shut off individually without needing access inside the home.

 

[cvairwerks]

Need to get in there and rewire part of it at least. I see one, maybe two wires with missing insulation.....

 

[wyliesdiesels]

the breaker style is "cable-in cable-out"

that whole can needs to be redone.

new breakers, new terminals bar, new neutral bar

replace the NM-b and put duct seal on the conduits after you replace the lock rings

the sewer gases are corroding everything

 

[mm08822]

Looks like it is. Thats what the septic installers used.

At 40 bucks each , I'll do one at a time.
Or just leave it bypassed. As I said it's still protected by the 20A in the breaker panel that feeds this mess.
I think the only reason there are individual breakers in there is for troubleshooting and each component can be shut off individually without needing access inside the home.

As stated elsewhere above, you can find them for less than $40...like $23ish.

 

[rlitman]

Yep, those conduits probably should have been sealed with silicone caulk. Too late now.

FYI, if it's an acid curing (like MOST) silicone caulk, that will greatly accelerate corrosion in an enclosed space. Duct seal is a much better (and more serviceable) choice, but I wouldn't do any of that.

I'd put one of these in the box:

https://www.amazon.com/Cortec-VpCI-105-Protects-Corrosion-Protection/dp/B0BSHSBSS1?tag=atomicindus08-20

..It's a SqD like a QO with the little trip window but has screws on both ends instead of a stab type...

Square D QOU. I service hundreds of these. Those gold colored clips slide into grooves at the back of the breaker, but these breakers also have built-in DIN rail clips, and if you're swapping them out, a DIN rail behind them will make replacement much easier (because reaching those stupid screws *****, and in my equipment there are 6-32 studs that have 11/32" hex nuts that I modified a nut driver to hold).

 

[Codyboy]

Need to get in there and rewire part of it at least. I see one, maybe two wires with missing insulation.....

No bare wires except the bare ground wires on the romex.

 

[Codyboy]

FYI, if it's an acid curing (like MOST) silicone caulk, that will greatly accelerate corrosion in an enclosed space. Duct seal is a much better (and more serviceable) choice, but I wouldn't do any of that.

I'd put one of these in the box:

https://www.amazon.com/Cortec-VpCI-105-Protects-Corrosion-Protection/dp/B0BSHSBSS1?tag=atomicindus08-20

Square D QOU. I service hundreds of these. Those gold colored clips slide into grooves at the back of the breaker, but these breakers also have built-in DIN rail clips, and if you're swapping them out, a DIN rail behind them will make replacement much easier (because reaching those stupid screws *****, and in my equipment there are 6-32 studs that have 11/32" hex nuts that I modified a nut driver to hold).

Yeah I was wondering how the breakers attached to the cabinet. I can see some flat copper strips(maybe) screwed in behind but can't really see how to get to the screws. Maybe the whole box has to be taken off the wall and access screws from the back side. idk.
Going to search for a video.

 

[Codyboy]

I think mine have these little mounting feet.

 

[manwithtools]

FYI, if it's an acid curing (like MOST) silicone caulk, that will greatly accelerate corrosion in an enclosed space. Duct seal is a much better (and more serviceable) choice, but I wouldn't do any of that.

And the silicone cures in 24 - 48 hours. Just leave the cover cracked for a couple of days.

 

[rlitman]

I think mine have these little mounting feet.

Yes, exactly. They're yellow zinc chromate plated steel, and they're a pain in the *** to work with. You can pinch them a bit to hold onto the breaker so you don't curse when it falls off as you're installing it.

And a lot of replacements don't come with the feet. Anyway, they all have the DIN rail clips, if you want to upgrade your setup.

And the silicone cures in 24 - 48 hours. Just leave the cover cracked for a couple of days.

Noooo. Acid curing silicone offgasses for the LIFETIME of the product. In a sealed space, it's bad news.

Anyway, if you want to use silicone (I'm not a fan of permanent conduit seals, and prefer to make things easier for "future me"), just use a "sensor safe" RTV. Most of the automotive silicone tubes have switched to solvent cure silicones since they trashed lots of MAFs. It's just the cheapest hardware store silicone that you need to worry about.