Square Drive Impact Socket Source?

[BQuicksilver]

Hey all, I've been trying to open an old brass drain cleanout as part of a remodel. I know the common knowledge is to just cut these caps off, but heat/kroil/big M18 impact have opened 3 other ones of the same vintage.

I have one left, but the cover is a 1.5" square head. I can't find a (hopefully cheap) socket to fit this anywhere. I'd hammer on a socket but this being brass I suspect the impact would just round it off.

Where do I go for a 1.5" 4pt impact (1/2" drive) socket?

 

[Can I try?]

I'll leave this here as a point of reference:

In browsing the Proto catalog, I found the only socket they currently make that fits your bill is a 1"-drive 8pt. impact. Part #J10024S

Found here on zoro.com.

 

[Zebu Fellenz]

That's a tricky one. McMaster lists 8pt. impact sockets but only up to 1-7/16". I found a 1-1/2" 8pt. from a railroad supply company. $74 and 1" drive so you'd need an adapter for your impact.

http://www.rrtoolsnsolutions.com/MiscProducts/ImpactSockets.asp

 

[Can I try?]

Have you tried using a wrench?

 

[BQuicksilver]

I have a 30" adjustable, but can't budge it. That said it only moved one of the other 3. The vibration of the impact does wonders on these once you have a few rounds of Kroil down the threads.

Problem is, I can't find a dang socket. I'm not even sure I'd feel safe with 8pt given the fitting is brass.

 

[BQuicksilver]

Edit: the head is 1.25"

 

[gatlibs]

Striking Wrench - https://www.harryepstein.com/index....le-striking-face-wrench-12-pt-heavy-duty.html $63.44
8 pt. impact socket - https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/1-1-2-1-dr-8-pt-double-square-impact-railroad-sockets.html $49.11

Wright's socket from Harry Epstein's is cheaper than the above options and also made in U.S.A. It still is 1" drive. You may need an adaptor or two which would lose some torque along the way, but still vibration would travel to the fastener.

I have a slugging wrench that I use with impact sockets. That is an high cost for a single use case, though. There are detriments and advantages to it over an impact.
https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/slugging-wrench-adaptor-1-m-x-1-f.html - $277.62

 

[sweet victory]

Here is an alternative idea: Drill a thru hole on one of the flats, stick a rod in there and try to break it loose that way?

 

[sberry]

Heat may help, the pipe dope can really set up.

 

[Robinson1]

Id try heating it up first. You might need more heat than what can be produced by a standard plumbing torch. That's a big fitting. I've had trouble in the past sweating copper valves over 1 inch with cheaper propane torches.

Another option would be to drill and tap with lefthand threads. Then use a large left hand thread bolt with a head size matching a socket you already own. By tightening the bolt you would be loosening the cap.

Of course this is stupid and expensive unless you already have or can borrow a large left hand thread tap.

Once the cap is out just put a nut on the underside and you should be able to reuse the brass cap.

If you are non concerned about reusing the cap a large easy out may work as well.

 

[BQuicksilver]

Been after it with a 30" wrench and 3lb mallet. Countless rounds with Kroil and a torch (not at the same time).

I'd probably just cut it off, but the Kroil is slipping down the threads really quick now so I know I've made progress. I think it would need a pretty thick bar to move it at which point there would be nothing left of the head.

Not sure if any of you feel the same, but I always feel like I've been defeated when I have to cut off a fastener, particularly when I haven't tried everything (my impact).

 

[BQuicksilver]

Grey Pneumatic makes a 3/4" drive in 1-1/4" with 8 points. 4 points seem tough to come by.

 

[3baygarage]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-Professional-07720S-Socket-3-4-Drive-1-1-4-8-Point-Deep-Impact-Socket/273558668125?hash=item3fb15e035d:g:~QQAAOSwcnJb60Tt

3/4 drive adapter would be needed.

 

[Mgdoug3]

When you say torch, what kind of torch are you talking about? I would think an oxygen/acetylene torch would be plenty of heat with a brass fitting.

 

[Steiger9]

Is it possible to make one? Maybe some 1-1/4 ID box iron with a junk socket welded into the other end. Should last at least a couple uses.

 

[Negen]

I seen similar situations with fittings where we would drill and reverse tap it and use a hex bolt to screw in. That normally gets some stuck nuts out. But I never seen that used on brass. Just an idea.

Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Robinson1]

Been after it with a 30" wrench and 3lb mallet. Countless rounds with Kroil and a torch (not at the same time).

I'd probably just cut it off, but the Kroil is slipping down the threads really quick now so I know I've made progress. I think it would need a pretty thick bar to move it at which point there would be nothing left of the head.

Not sure if any of you feel the same, but I always feel like I've been defeated when I have to cut off a fastener, particularly when I haven't tried everything (my impact).

I get what you are saying. But also from experience will disagree.

I've been in similar situations where I tried everything on the truck and went back to the shop to get more. In the end just wasted time and I ended up cutting it anyway. Time is money.

Sounds like you're not interested in reusing the fitting anyway. How much time have you killed trying to get it apart?
Is it holding up progress on the project?

I'd hit it with as much heat as I safely could then use the biggest wrench I could fit in the space. If that doesn't work you are wasting time. Out comes cutting tools.

 

[MJD1]

Get a piece of the appropriate size steel square tube and weld it to a cheapie 3/4" drive socket. For 1-1/2" use a piece of 2" square, 1/4" wall tube.

 

[BQuicksilver]

It's not really holding things up, and to be fair all the others have come loose and this one seems promising to do the same. The others had 1-1/4" hex which I happened to have on hand so the impact popped them right open.

3baygarage, I purchased that socket. Thanks!

 

[DFB]

Get a bigger hammer!

 

[619DioFan]

Get a piece of the appropriate size steel square tube and weld it to a cheapie 3/4" drive socket. For 1-1/2" use a piece of 2" square, 1/4" wall tube.

This is a great answer.

 

[3baygarage]

It's not really holding things up, and to be fair all the others have come loose and this one seems promising to do the same. The others had 1-1/4" hex which I happened to have on hand so the impact popped them right open.

3baygarage, I purchased that socket. Thanks!

Nice, hope that does it. I know the Proto socket won’t let you down. Please let us know how it goes.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Get a piece of the appropriate size steel square tube and weld it to a cheapie 3/4" drive socket. For 1-1/2" use a piece of 2" square, 1/4" wall tube.

I think thats what my Dodge screw in ball joint socket is.

 

[cherrybomb]

I believe the answer that MJD1 provided is one I would try also.Tubing isn't expensive or hard to find.Try it,we may want to put it in our bag of tricks.

 

[Steiger9]

Get a piece of the appropriate size steel square tube and weld it to a cheapie 3/4" drive socket. For 1-1/2" use a piece of 2" square, 1/4" wall tube.

Kind of exactly what I said, but apparently not as well.