wishihadatalon
Well-known member
Is it possible to finish square edge drywall to be seamless? I found a good deal on some but don't wanna get it if its too much trouble to finish.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Square Edge Drywall
- Thread starter wishihadatalon
- Start date
senlow
Well-known member
Nothing to it. Try this stuff: http://www.butthanger.com/rock_splicer.html
green.bubbly
Well-known member
In the process of doing that on my house except I made my own out of some leftover osb. Put a straight edge up against the wall and you can see the depression allowing you to fill with mud and level.
Nighttrain
Well-known member
Even tappered dry wall has square edge ends! Just takes a little more mud and time to finish the seems.
So, since the website doesn't actually explain this thing, I'm left to assume that it is "cupped" in the middle, causing the edges of the drywall to bend inwards?
Is that right?
Heavy Metal Doctor
Well-known member
no, the factory edges on 2 longs sides of a sheet of drywall are tapered for the mud to fill / blend nicely. The problem they are solving with the rock splicer is that you often have to cut of the sheet to line up the edge on a piece of framing to give you something to also start the next sheet on. With the rock slipcer, you can **** two factory edges together not meeting on a framing member....as others have said - you can do it with a scrap of osb or similar.
mayday0017
Well-known member
I just Laughed out loud at the "Rock Splicer" if anyone is really buying these give me a name and address so I can sell them bags of fresh air too....
Personally I wouldn't want splices like that on my ceilings for sure, but really don't like the idea of them on walls either...
Test it out and see if you trust it using a piece of wood (osb) as they show. Then push on it and see if the gap in the joint gets bigger and smaller as you push on it. I would be willing to bet it does, which means it will crack over time. Cut to correct size nail to a stud and forget about it.... OR if you really want to "splice" it, nail a couple boards between your studs and give it something secure to fasten to.
Just my 2 cents
Personally I wouldn't want splices like that on my ceilings for sure, but really don't like the idea of them on walls either...
Test it out and see if you trust it using a piece of wood (osb) as they show. Then push on it and see if the gap in the joint gets bigger and smaller as you push on it. I would be willing to bet it does, which means it will crack over time. Cut to correct size nail to a stud and forget about it.... OR if you really want to "splice" it, nail a couple boards between your studs and give it something secure to fasten to.
Just my 2 cents
pain
Well-known member
I agree completely. I have hung alot of sheet rock and that is a waste of money. When you tape those joints, they will crack. There isn't enough backing there to keep the rock from moving.
SuperSocket
Well-known member
OP
wishihadatalon
Well-known member
So fill the small gap left with the **** edge. Any thoughts on how long this joint will resist cracking in a garage environment where it isn't constantly heated? Thanks again for the responses.
1948
Well-known member
leave the gaps, use a ferring strip of wood, be kindof "decorative" if you absolutely need to use these. or maybe just take a 2x4 and a hammer and angle the ends top to bottom very carefully.
(lay the sheet on the ground have someone hold the 2x4 at a slight angle and then take a hammer and hit down the length of the 2x4.)
(lay the sheet on the ground have someone hold the 2x4 at a slight angle and then take a hammer and hit down the length of the 2x4.)
green.bubbly
Well-known member
First off, I am NOT by any stretch of the imagination, a sheet rock expert. Hell, I am not even a sheetrock novice.
With that said, I believe a few of you guys have the **** slicer method incorrect. From what I have been reading, this is the preferred new method and logically, it makes sense.
If you run your rock horizontally, you are left with two untapered edges butting against each other. If this two edges are on a stud, then when you apply tape and mud, you are going to create a hill. You can widen that hill out to mask it but no matter what, by adding mud on top of the rock, there will be a hill.
The new method is to have the two **** joints fall between the stud bays. The splicer (or osb strips as I am using) have a 1/8" protrusion along the edges. When the rock is screw at the center of the splicer, the protrusions cause the rock to bevel in slightly. This depression that is formed can now be filled with tape and mud bringing it even with the rest of the surface with no hill.
With that said, I believe a few of you guys have the **** slicer method incorrect. From what I have been reading, this is the preferred new method and logically, it makes sense.
If you run your rock horizontally, you are left with two untapered edges butting against each other. If this two edges are on a stud, then when you apply tape and mud, you are going to create a hill. You can widen that hill out to mask it but no matter what, by adding mud on top of the rock, there will be a hill.
The new method is to have the two **** joints fall between the stud bays. The splicer (or osb strips as I am using) have a 1/8" protrusion along the edges. When the rock is screw at the center of the splicer, the protrusions cause the rock to bevel in slightly. This depression that is formed can now be filled with tape and mud bringing it even with the rest of the surface with no hill.
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mayday0017
Well-known member
It will still flex and crack, and weight sitting on drywall on the ceiling is bad too.... The amount of "hill" that would be made by someone who is decent at laying drywall would be sooooooo small that you would never be able to see it. It will be no larger then the waves created be the fact that 2x4 studs arn't straight and neither is the work of the framer. You will ALWAYS have waves in drywall, just how noticeable is up to the experiance of the installer. But these will make such a slight reduction the the number of tiny waves in the drywall that there is no point.....
Save your pennys, and toss up some texture
Edit: Sorry they will make Zero reduction not even a slight... I was thinking about the joints in between studs/rafters like you show in your picture. I would never do that they would always be located on top of the stud. Given that your studs will always cause a "hill" (wave) in the drywall (even if you see it or not) there is nothing to "reduce".
Save your pennys, and toss up some texture
Edit: Sorry they will make Zero reduction not even a slight... I was thinking about the joints in between studs/rafters like you show in your picture. I would never do that they would always be located on top of the stud. Given that your studs will always cause a "hill" (wave) in the drywall (even if you see it or not) there is nothing to "reduce".
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