square tube and trust

[nm2]

Hi all,

I’m new on this forum. I leave to Quebec, Canada !
I speak french, so sorry because maybe that my english is not good !

-I have a garage 27x27.
-I bought a China Electric Cable Hoist (1320Lbs with pulley and 660 single cable) !
-I want install a Square tube 1¾"x 1¾" x .100" near of ceiling (length 6' 4") as a below photoA (line red color).
- I WILL USE MY HOIST ON CENTER OF THIS TUBING
-I want use 4 thread rod 3/8 (8 feet) and fix tubing to upper on once trust circleA and CircleB green (2 rod on each extremity of beam) as photoC.
-Each trust is made with 2x4 dry stud.
-Each trust have 8 feet of height 1

I have 3 questions:
1-Does four 3/8 thread rod is OK for 1000 lbs ?
2- Does once trust is OK for 1000lbs (I will install 2 rod along vertical 2x4 stud (line pink C and D on Photo A) ?
3- Can I use Square tube 1¾"x 1¾" x .100" (length 6' 4")?

Thanks

 

[Steevo]

Only "PhotoC" is showing.
I am pretty sure the answer is no, you should not hang 1000# from a pair of trusses. They are not made to support that much weight.

But, let's see the rest of your pics, so we can better understand your project.

 

[Outlawmws]

Your trusses probably wont support the load, and I seriously doubt the .100 wall box tubing will if only supported on the ends...

 

[nm2]

Sorry,

Here a PhotoA and PhotoB:

 

[nm2]

Only "PhotoC" is showing.
I am pretty sure the answer is no, you should not hang 1000# from a pair of trusses. They are not made to support that much weight.

But, let's see the rest of your pics, so we can better understand your project.

If I install two 2x6 on this two trust, does it is sufficient (500 lbs by trust)?

 

[nm2]

Your trusses probably wont support the load, and I seriously doubt the .100 wall box tubing will if only supported on the ends...

A hoist that I bought needing 1¾" tubing !

A 1¾"x 1¾" x .100" is only available in my area !
But I have an idea, I could insert a second tube 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x .187 inside a first tube and sold through several holes along the first tube on four side on second tube !

This will give 1¾"x 1¾" x .287" x 72" !

Is it enough for 1000 lbs ?

 

[Steevo]

How far apart are your trusses?
What are they made out of? Are they all 2x4 construction?

 

[nm2]

Re: Square tube and truss

How far apart are your trusses?
What are they made out of? Are they all 2x4 construction?

Exist 24" between each trusses !
Each trusse are made by an specialist enterprise for.
Made in 2x4 stud !
But a beam will be oriented in the same direction as the trusses (parallel)

 

[nm2]

Are they all 2x4 construction?

Yes, As these photos:

 

[Cougar67]

What are you planning to lift? That type of hoist is commonly used to lift pickup truck caps and Jeep hardtop which weigh under 200 lbs. If the hoist is rated for 1000 lbs. using the "made in China" rule you should not use it to lift anything over 500 lbs. (half its' rating). If you are planning to hoist something close to 1000 lbs it would be worth consulting a structural engineer. I would not trust wood to do the job. You probably need to invest in a steel gantry.

 

[p_mori7]

Will give my opinion to the O.P. in his native language...

Bonjour NM, et bienvenu a GJ !

Je ne crois pas que tes fermes de toit pourraient supporter la charge de ton palan electrique. Je crois qu'il faudrait soit que tu etale la charge potentielle sur un plus grand nombre de fermes, soit que tu ramene ta charge vers le plancher au lieu du toit. Est-ce qu'il y a un poteau de soutien au centre de ton garage ? Si oui, une partie de la charge pourrait etre transferee a ce poteau, et il te resterait l'autre bord a supporter. Si 'non', faudrait peut-etre voir a doubler les 2x4 sur au moins 4 fermes (donc 8') et installer deux poutres transversales pour etaler la charge sur 4 chevrons.

Aussi, ton tubing n'est pas assez robuste pour ta charge potentielle. Je ne sais pas dans quel coin tu est, mais tu pourrait probablement trouver quelque chose de plus gros chez Acier Pesant a Mascouche.

Faut pas oublier que toute la structure que tu rajoute doit aussi rentrer en ligne de compte pour la charge totale sur tes fermes de toit.

Il serait aussi peut-etre possible de diviser la charge... une moitie le long du mur vers le plancher, et l'autre moitie du plafond.

 

[nm2]

What are you planning to lift? That type of hoist is commonly used to lift pickup truck caps and Jeep hardtop which weigh under 200 lbs. If the hoist is rated for 1000 lbs. using the "made in China" rule you should not use it to lift anything over 500 lbs. (half its' rating). If you are planning to hoist something close to 1000 lbs it would be worth consulting a structural engineer. I would not trust wood to do the job. You probably need to invest in a steel gantry.

A bigger equipment will be to lift (rarely) SnowBlower(300), SnowMobile(600), VTT(700), lawn tractors(500) or trailer(450). I tested this chenese hoist without his pulley and I succesfull lift near 600lbs (father's garage). With his pulley it is sold to lift 1320lbs. Probably that I will use without a pulley.

 

[bdkruger1]

Strange but, the OP's accent sounds more like Italian to me.

 

[nm2]

Will give my opinion to the O.P. in his native language...

Bonjour NM, et bienvenu a GJ !

Je ne crois pas que tes fermes de toit pourraient supporter la charge de ton palan electrique. Je crois qu'il faudrait soit que tu etale la charge potentielle sur un plus grand nombre de fermes, soit que tu ramene ta charge vers le plancher au lieu du toit. Est-ce qu'il y a un poteau de soutien au centre de ton garage ? Si oui, une partie de la charge pourrait etre transferee a ce poteau, et il te resterait l'autre bord a supporter. Si 'non', faudrait peut-etre voir a doubler les 2x4 sur au moins 4 fermes (donc 8') et installer deux poutres transversales pour etaler la charge sur 4 chevrons.

Aussi, ton tubing n'est pas assez robuste pour ta charge potentielle. Je ne sais pas dans quel coin tu est, mais tu pourrait probablement trouver quelque chose de plus gros chez Acier Pesant a Mascouche.

Faut pas oublier que toute la structure que tu rajoute doit aussi rentrer en ligne de compte pour la charge totale sur tes fermes de toit.

Il serait aussi peut-etre possible de diviser la charge... une moitie le long du mur vers le plancher, et l'autre moitie du plafond.

Je suis de Shawinigan, et je m'entêtait a utiliser du tube 1 3/4" !

Mais tu as raison, Le plafond de mon garage étant 2 pieds plus haut que le plafond de ma maison, je crois que je vais utiliser plutôt un I-Beam de 12 pieds par 4 pouces de haut, un bout dont la charge sera appuyé sur le mur de ma maison, et a l'autre bout, je vais repartir mon poids sur 4 fermes, tout en m'assurant d'être sur le partie centrale de mon garage, là où il y a un 2x4 vertical qui monte vers le haut ,là ou aucune possibilité de flexion ! Je ferai de même a 6 pieds du bout () soit la moiti de sa longueur et me faire supporter par le plafond de la même façon que l'autre bout !

comme cette photo:

 

[p_mori7]

Il serait aussi important d'installer des goussets en contreplaquer aux joints de tes fermes de toit, afin de renforcir la ou il y a les petites plaques de metal dentelees. Bonne chance avec ton projet !

 

[nm2]

Re: square tube and trusses

Il serait aussi important d'installer des goussets en contreplaquer aux joints de tes fermes de toit, afin de renforcir la ou il y a les petites plaques de metal dentelees. Bonne chance avec ton projet !

En plus j'ajouterai de la BulldogGrip et des vis !

Merci !

 

[bams50]

I was interested in hearing the resolution of this thread, but I don't speak French, and I'm not going to spend the time running the comments through a translator. The OP was doing just fine; I could follow it. Why take the conversation away from all the rest of us?

It's like when you're somewhere and two people start a conversation in front of you in a language you don't understand. Annoying and rude.

 

[Sureshot]

I would run it with a single line and test it.

 

[woodrail]

Trusses are not meant to be point loaded anywhere on a mid or bottom chord. Reinforcing the geometry in effect turns the truss into "stick framing".

I can not tell you how exactly to solve your solution, but I would suggest constructing an independant structure that bears on your side walls. You of course can stabilize the assembly with the trusses, but leave the heavy lifting to the walls.

In general, trusses are built with "less than optimum" lumber. They are designed to hold up shingles, not engine blocks.

 

[nm2]

Trusses are not meant to be point loaded anywhere on a mid or bottom chord. Reinforcing the geometry in effect turns the truss into "stick framing".

I can not tell you how exactly to solve your solution, but I would suggest constructing an independant structure that bears on your side walls. You of course can stabilize the assembly with the trusses, but leave the heavy lifting to the walls.

In general, trusses are built with "less than optimum" lumber. They are designed to hold up shingles, not engine blocks.

Yes, as explain in french previous message, I will use a longer beam (I_beam 2.5"x4"x12'), and seat the beginning on a wall, and suspend the other end on four trusses near on bracket reinforcement, where the 2x4 can not bend !

I will use a plywood, glue and screw over metal plate to reinforce a trusse junction.

Welcome to others ideas !

Question: Does I-Beam 2.5"x4"x12' is OK for 1000Lbs ?

Thanks

 

[woodrail]

ok, I'm going to suggest you run this by a structural engineer or at least a truss manufacturer. Personally, I wouldn't do what you are doing.

It's not like you are going to experience a catastrophic failure (maybe). You potentially could see the truss joining plates seperate or twist. You may also see sagging and maybe some roof sheathing issues.

Realistically, if this is only used occasionally and for a few hundred pounds for a few minutes, you will be fine.

Perhaps you could consider a temporary jack post under the center end when you have heavy lifting to do?

 

[nm2]

Perhaps you could consider a temporary jack post under the center end when you have heavy lifting to do?

I have another idea !
Does I can use a I-Beam 4" height, 27 feets lenght, with 2 permanent jack tube (column) 4"x4"x1/8" at each end of the beam !

Question: Does I-Beam 2.5"x4"x27' is OK to lift 1000Lbs on the center of beam ?

 

[MoonRise]

I have another idea !
Does I can use a I-Beam 4" height, 27 feets lenght, with 2 permanent jack tube (column) 4"x4"x1/8" at each end of the beam !

Question: Does I-Beam 2.5"x4"x27' is OK to lift 1000Lbs on the center of beam ?

No.

A W4x13 beam 27 ft long, simple supported on the ends, is NOT sufficient to hold a 1000 lb load in the middle. You would have ~2 inches of sag in the middle of such a beam and would slightly exceed the bending stress limits for the material.

Move up in size to a W5x16 beam and you are generally OK for bending and shear with a 1000 lb load in the middle of the beam and have ~1.1 inch of sag/deflection in the middle with that 1000 lb load.

Your support posts/columns have to be anchored and supported properly in order to support the I-beam and that 1000 lb load in the middle.

As previously said, do NOT hang your hoist off of the roof trusses. They are not made or designed for it. Do not structurally attach your hoist beam to the trusses, make it independent of the roof trusses.

Another option that may be 'better' is to just use an engine hoist (aka cherry picker) or a roll-about gantry crane.

Like this or similar:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...nes/1-ton-telescoping-gantry-crane-41188.html

Use your hoist with the gantry crane and lift away. Safely.

 

[KPSquared]

Call a structural engineer. Your ideas are super sketchy. Think bigger, stronger. You need to be able to lift 2000lbs from that beam if you want to lift 1000lbs safely.

And please, continue in English.