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Squashfest81

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And no, the 29er 2.2 wide don’t fit.
This one may have to get cleaned up and jam the biggest knobby gravels I can fit and drop bars.
5757-DF09-67-E8-422-E-89-C3-9048471-B304-E.jpg
 
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Squashfest81

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And this Raleigh Technium followed me home. The frame has some decent surface rust, so I think I’ll just pull her apart.
The stem, bars, and brake shifter combo (brifters?) might just move to that Schwinn Crisscross. Maybe the crank pedal stuff too.
AAA95-E7-D-89-BD-439-A-AADC-D6-C5-A77-F7-FF8.jpg
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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I got my 5yo daughter to the track for the first time last night. She did awesome! I didn't get many pics as I was busy scraping her up! Unlike her sister, she wasn't afraid of anything. She has the potential to be a beast if she sticks with it.

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Not sure if I ever posted pics of her bike, but I bought a clapped out Chase micro and rebuilt it for her a few months ago.

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Squashfest81

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Got the Technium pulled apart and the stem and bars tossed on the Crisscross for feel. I don’t hate it.
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Squashfest81

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Back on the Speedster To MTB conversion. Nabbed this cool Schwinn seat to coordinate with the old grips. Tossed a matching Arraya rim on the front.
Also, drilled the frame to run the internal cable to the stick shift.
I think I’ve got all the parts for this old guy. Now it’s time to pull it all apart to polish the frame as best I can.
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Squashfest81

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An old road bike was posted online in town along with some scrap. I messaged the woman asking to save the bike from scrap.
This is the reason I saved it. An old leather seat.
It’s a Fujita Saddle Co from Tokyo. Makes sense cause it’s on a Fuji.
44737-D2-D-2-F7-A-4-EDC-A638-22-D8-F67-B790-E.jpg
 
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Squashfest81

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I’ve been casually watching for a small framed 26in bike to build up for my not 5ft tall 9 year old boy.
Spied this DB buried in my shed that I grabbed cheap for the disc wheels and brake stuff. Huh, that looks small, and the top tube is low. Let’s mock it up and see what the boy thinks.
We are going full respray and 1 by 8 with the wheelset off the Stumpy.
8536-CE1-F-A24-E-4132-9635-4-D2-D960412-EF.jpg
picupload
 
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Squashfest81

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The Speedster is definitely welded, and poorly at that. I’m baffled as to how it was all done. Like the bb was a separate piece with “stubs” on it where the chain stays were to be attached? Then it has a horrible weld across the bb on the bottom.
I’ll grab some pics tomorrow of the “highlights.”
 

slowtwitch73

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Regardlesss of method, Schwinn was known to make the headtube junctions look good while ignoring the other joints... unless it was a top tier frame.
 
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Squashfest81

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This is from beneath the bottom bracket. It’s horrible, like wildly horrible. I’m not even sure what is going on with the chain stays. And the welded seam on the bb. Yikes.
F3140648-F31-B-41-F1-9-DFA-A5-A91-A0-FD688.jpg
 

Blt2Lst

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SoCali
This is from beneath the bottom bracket. It’s horrible, like wildly horrible. I’m not even sure what is going on with the chain stays. And the welded seam on the bb. Yikes.
F3140648-F31-B-41-F1-9-DFA-A5-A91-A0-FD688.jpg
That pic belongs in the WTF picture thread.
I guess if you couldn't see it they didn't care, who was looking under frames when you were buying a bike back then.
 
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Squashfest81

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Got a better look at the Cilo. Noticed the back wheel was bent. Closer inspection reveals this. Looks like it was backed over? 8-B5099-F7-2-E11-4567-BF1-B-1-EBB724-CDBB3.jpg
 
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Squashfest81

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That could be Mogandave.
It’s not on the top of the project list, but I’d like to get a good wheel on the Cilo to verify the rear frame isn’t bent. It looks good, but…
 

slowtwitch73

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Get a piece of string and loop it around the headtube so it sits on ontop of the lower headset cup and pull the two ends tight back to the the outer faces of the rear dropouts.... if the space between the string and the seat tube looks equal on both sides you are probably ok.
 

kjdhawkhill

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Flyover state #4
That could be Mogandave.
It’s not on the top of the project list, but I’d like to get a good wheel on the Cilo to verify the rear frame isn’t bent. It looks good, but…
Nothing about that rim screams "traumatic incident" to me... It could just be an old, poorly tensioned wheel, like the first rear wheel I built.


Go down the rabbit hole. Start building your own wheels. Tear that rim off, get new *******... (Beavis grunt, Butthead chortle)... A good bike shop should be able take your hub measurements, your new rim specs, do some google magic, and order or cut new spokes...

Its complicated, but so is braiding your daughter's hair, painting and rehabbing old bikes, woodworking or any of the hobbies we have around here... YouTube is a fantastic resource. And if the hub/frame are in OK shape, you can keep it the aesthetic you want. Its also formulaic the same way Law and Order becomes the same show after you've watched the Thanksgiving Weekend Marathon.
 
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Squashfest81

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Saw this guy on the Marketplace, so I lowballed, mostly for the Bomber fork, disc wheels, and all the cool stuff. It looked to me like someone upgraded an Iron Horse.
I was wrong. It’s a 2001 Iron Horse ******. Honest. A cool downhill bike in its day, with the fork changed out. Now I’m unsure if I want to poach its parts?
A8-EA33-A3-B5-B8-4-AF6-BA58-269-C90926-CE7.jpg
 
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Squashfest81

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Gave the Speedster to MTB a scrub a week ago and rubbed it down with boiled linseed oil. Still a slight tack after 6 days, but I do like the glossy look.
93-DFA94-E-B91-A-412-D-B4-C1-BFC2782-EE4-C1.jpg
 
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Squashfest81

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Messed around with running the internal cables and the bb adapter. I want to use the old all metal spring looking cables, but I need to link a couple pieces. Think I’ll try some heat shrink tubing? My plan was to run a sealed bb, but I may need the extra room of a classic style. Those bolts in the adapter make it super tight.
024-B6-C4-C-2-A97-4664-BB4-C-8333-E609405-C.jpg
 
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Squashfest81

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Got the internal cables run. I want to use the old metal spring style casing, but I only had shorter pieces harvested off of some old road bikes. I decided to splice two pieces together with a modern casing in between. Electrical tape is not the way to do it. Next I tried heat shrink tubing. Did two layers and it feels sturdy. Also got the rear internal 4 speed and coaster brake hub hooked up.
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Squashfest81

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Mogandave, yeah coaster brake.
Here’s the build recap: Saved this 1972ish Schwinn Speedster from scrap. The thought was to make an early mountain bike like before mountain bikes.
Stretched the rear out to fit 26in mountain bike wheels and tires. Used a bottom bracket adapter to mount a basic 3 piece bb. Old road bike stem, mountain bike bar, old grips, old road bike crank and pedals. Internal cable to a funky Schwinn stick shift connected to an internal 4 speed coaster brake rear wheel off some Trek beach cruiser.
I’ve got a little tire rub on the rear, cause it’s just a little too big. She shifts smooth and rides nice, although she’s a hefty 34 pounds. The old steel frame is not light and that rear hub does not help with weight.
 
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mogandave

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Bangkok
Mogandave, yeah coaster brake.
Here’s the build recap: Saved this 1972ish Schwinn Speedster from scrap. The thought was to make an early mountain bike like before mountain bikes.
Stretched the rear out to fit 26in mountain bike wheels and tires. Used a bottom bracket adapter to mount a basic 3 piece bb. Old road bike stem, mountain bike bar, old grips, old road bike crank and pedals. Internal cable from a funky Schwinn stick shift connected to an internal 4 speed coaster brake rear wheel off some Trek beach cruiser.
I’ve got a little tire rub on the rear, cause it’s just a little too big. She shifts smooth and rides nice, although she’s a hefty 34 pounds. The old steel frame is not light and that rear hub does not help with weight.
I had a black "Racer" back in the day, but I think it was single speed. Nice bike.

Also had a Schwinn "Typhoon" that was the most durable, trouble-free bike I ever had. It was heavy, but I great ride.
 

captain14

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Dec 19, 2012
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Near College Park Maryland 20740
Mogandave, yeah coaster brake.
Here’s the build recap: Saved this 1972ish Schwinn Speedster from scrap. The thought was to make an early mountain bike like before mountain bikes.
Stretched the rear out to fit 26in mountain bike wheels and tires. Used a bottom bracket adapter to mount a basic 3 piece bb. Old road bike stem, mountain bike bar, old grips, old road bike crank and pedals. Internal cable from a funky Schwinn stick shift connected to an internal 4 speed coaster brake rear wheel off some Trek beach cruiser.
I’ve got a little tire rub on the rear, cause it’s just a little too big. She shifts smooth and rides nice, although she’s a hefty 34 pounds. The old steel frame is not light and that rear hub does not help with weight.
Anything left in the spare parts room? Sounds like a great build using parts you had on hand.
 

slowtwitch73

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I u have a beefy c clamp u can weld on a length of 1/4 soild round.. maybe 2" long, round off the cut ends and dimple aka squish the inner face of the chainstays to get some clearance.
 
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Squashfest81

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Captain, I definitely used a bunch of my “cooler” parts, but I’m always on the lookout.
I do like to be inspired by what I can dig up.
Slowtwitch, that is a good idea. Honestly, I think I’d need some serious leverage to dimple those tubes. I’ll actually give it a go on a scrap bike before it goes and post up.
This bike I’ll wait for the “permanent” tires before any frame dimpling.
 
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