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Squeaky Floor

metaldad

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Aug 2, 2011
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nw indiana
Getting new carpeting. I have not seen the wood floor in this shack in the 17 years we've been here. Not going to see the floor under the new carpeting in this lifetime.
Floor is, subfloor of 1x6. 3/4 x 2 t&g oak. i have no idea of the condition, neither do I care. Between the two, are randomly placed 3/4 x 2 wood strips, maiking the floor 2 1/4 thick. (found this when i gutted the bathroom).
Anyways, the oak makes noise. I'd like to cut 'windows' into the existing carpet, and shoot some screws to quiet it up. Of course, predrill and countersink the holes. Don't know,at this point, if the oak is laying at a right angle, in relation to the floor joists. Any recommendations, on the type of screw? I see that there is a 'new' style of screw for dur rock, a wider than normal bugle head with serrations, torx style driven.
I dont want to use a screw, that may back out.
yeah, i have full access from underneath. It would take, more time than i would want, to find where the underneath lines up with the squeak(s).
 
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aussiek2000

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not Australia
Rip the carpet up yourself. Look at the orientation of current nails/screws and then add more in the corresponding rows.
 

Wolfman6

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Oct 16, 2017
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Well wood rubbing on wood makes squeaks, so is it the layers of flooring rubbing or the flooring rubbing on the joists that are the problem. If it's the joists, you will need a pretty long screw to get through the 2 1/4 flooring and grab the joist. You will also have to drill a pilot hole all the way though the flooring so the flooring is free to pull tight and not bind on the screw. You may end up doing some work from above and below.
 
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metaldad

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going to countersunk /flat headed cabinet screws, 3'' long. thread is 2 1/4. serrations on the 'bugle'. at least i should be able see where the first couple poke out, from under, to attempt to hit the joists.
carpet is coming friday. going to cut the existing wednesday or thursday night
 

PCustoms

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going to countersunk /flat headed cabinet screws, 3'' long. thread is 2 1/4. serrations on the 'bugle'. at least i should be able see where the first couple poke out, from under, to attempt to hit the joists.
carpet is coming friday. going to cut the existing wednesday or thursday night

Drill up from below along a joist, then string a line. A lot easier then pecking from above, and you won't hit a pipe or wire this way (because you can see it from below).

You want a longer screw with a long enough unthreaded shank to squeeze your 2 1/4" layers together and tight to the joist, otherwise the threads are actually working to seperate the layers.
 

AffableCurmudgeon

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metaldad

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Drill up from below along a joist, then string a line. A lot easier then pecking from above, and you won't hit a pipe or wire this way (because you can see it from below).

You want a longer screw with a long enough unthreaded shank to squeeze your 2 1/4" layers together and tight to the joist, otherwise the threads are actually working to seperate the layers.

makes sense. :thumbup:
 
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Wolfman6

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Oct 16, 2017
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3" screw is not long enough. Those screws have very little pulling power in the first 3/4". In theory, you should have 1/2 the screw pulling, but I would guess 4" would work.
 

country83

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May 28, 2009
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Seen something like that on This Old House a few years ago. Thought it was neat.

My experience: bought an older home 3 years ago, ripped out all the paper thin 70's psychedelic carpet, and ran screws about every 6 inches along the joists through the tongue and groove subfloor and particle board on top. Was able to eliminate virtually every squeak in the rooms I did that to.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

Dirtydan69

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Nov 8, 2015
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San Tan Valley, AZ
That tool works well on plywood. On the floor you describe it would be hit and miss. I had a building that was similar. Built in 1901. There were 7/8” rough boards layed on the joists at a 45 degree angle. Then 3/4” oak hardwood. The hardwood had been refinished a few times and was not able to be sanded again. They then Syed rough sawn lather, like that used for plaster backing, perpendicular the oak and layed another oak floor over it. Yikes! Talk about squeaks. I found all this when remodeling the bath and kitchen of the first floor.
 
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metaldad

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update, carpet is in. i bought longer screws, 4''. was able to find the floor joists, and it really quieted up the floor.
i have never seen the floor before, bedrooms were oak. glued linoleum sheet in hall, and PINE 3/4 x 2 in the living room. the discovery of unfinished pine was surprising.
 
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