Stainless Milled Surface Cleanup

[scratchedup]

I'm going to be building a 21 x 38 inch table for a bathroom. The material is 1/4" 304 stainless with a slightly coarse "mill finish".

I do not want to polish it but to just gently remove burrs, scale and any roughness.

I'm looking for advise on what tools to use and what products to buy for this and other future metal surfacing projects.

Scotch brite pads and disks, I assume, are going to be the choice but what is the best tool/disk/ pad combination.

My tools choices include hand held electric 90 angle grinders, drills, pneumatic sanders, die grinders...3 & 4"...

 

[kazlx]

Just file the edges or hit with a flap wheel to deburr. An inline sander to give those a slight (or heavy depending on grit) brush finish would work really well. They aren't that much. It would help if you were more specific about what you want it to look like. You have to be more aggressive with stainlesss than other metals. I'd probably start with 80. Maybe test an 80 and a 120. Easiest way is use a piece of scrap and test some different things to get what you like.

 

[sqznby]

A DA sander will work wonders and get you a nice even finish and a dynafile belt sander will be nice to evenly finish the edges.
I'd start with a 40 grit pad on the DA, that will take most of the work out of it for you and then progress to a lighter if so desired. While it may sound rough to use a 40, you will be surprised by the end result.

 

[kazlx]

Honestly, on metal, especially SS, it's pretty easy to test a spot or spots out and go back over with a different process and cover it up/match it.

 

[bullnerd]

I remember that stuff a little different than everyone else I guess. I remember trying to sand it with a DA and it would barely scratch the high spots, which is basically the whole surface. I use to make submersible turn tables for ultra sonic scanners out of it. You might be able to get away with something simple on the angle, but I think the plate is going to be tough stuff. Know anybody with a timesaver? I think If I wanted to do a small stainless surface I would find the local sheet metal shop that does cooking areas for kitchens and ask for the scraps of stainless with a better finish, then put it over a thicker base for the top.

 

[sqznby]

That's why I was saying use some 40 grit or a more aggressive grit. I have used it on past projects with surprising results.
I thought about a time saver but I couldn't really say its a practical home tool, haha.

 

[bullnerd]

That's why I was saying use some 40 grit or a more aggressive grit. I have used it on past projects with surprising results.
I thought about a time saver but I couldn't really say its a practical home tool, haha.

Yeah, I missed the 40 grit, your right.

 

[scratchedup]

Im not looking for a true brushed finish....way to much work and the wrong material. I want and like the "industrial" finish.

Just looking to put a little buff on it...what it is.

THX

 

[bullnerd]

Sounds good, please keep us up to date as you go.

 

[rlitman]

Im not looking for a true brushed finish....way to much work and the wrong material. I want and like the "industrial" finish.

Just to be clear, a brushed finish is far less work than trying to use abrasives to level the surface, IF you have the tools such as a Dynisher or Linemate.

 

[sqznby]

Im not looking for a true brushed finish....way to much work and the wrong material. I want and like the "industrial" finish.

Just looking to put a little buff on it...what it is.

THX

You could try some Dykem remover/cleaner or CRC contact cleaner to clean the markings off of the material and go from there. That will keep the natural raw industrial finish.

Just to be clear, a brushed finish is far less work than trying to use abrasives to level the surface, IF you have the tools such as a Dynisher or Linemate.

As we mentioned earlier, a timesaver would do the job but is not a practical home tool, two maybe three passes and it would look amazing with a perfectly uniformed brushed pattern.
You can use a dynisher or inline grinder, which are great tools and work very well. Doing a wider surface can become more of a challenge and will take a steady hand to keep the pattern uniform. Also if you do not keep it flat across the entire sweep, that will also show on the end results.

 

[Bobcat753]

I'm guessing your looking for a heavy brushed finish. Probably around a 32-35BL finish. The best method is with a burnisher.

 

[Kevin54]

I would just run it on a belt sander to smooth things out. Or if you don't have access to a belt sander, then use a die grinder and a fine sanding disc and give it the swirled raw metal look to it. The edges, just take a file to it.

 

[scratchedup]

All good info...
Can someone direct me to a link for buffing 101.

I would like to use a portable tool vs bench mount for flat surfaces.

With my small 4 1/2" angle grinder I bought a flapper wheel. It works well but is aggressive. Can one fit a scotch brite or sissal wheel to one of these. It has a threaded shaft mount with a 7/8" OD screw on holding not...so 7/8" arbor hole???

 

[Bobcat753]

Look into one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Metabo-10-Amp-120-Volt-Variable-Speed-Burnisher-SE12-115/205380169

 

[scratchedup]

Look into one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Metabo-10-Amp-120-Volt-Variable-Speed-Burnisher-SE12-115/205380169

Thanks-
Thats very cool but other tools higher on my list for that kind o money.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

A DA sander will work wonders and get you a nice even finish and a dynafile belt sander will be nice to evenly finish the edges.
I'd start with a 40 grit pad on the DA, that will take most of the work out of it for you and then progress to a lighter if so desired. While it may sound rough to use a 40, you will be surprised by the end result.

Yep. That's what I did for an architectural project that was about 30 upright support plates for handrail. Plasma cut the profile they wanted for the rail to mount to and DA off the burned edge as well as overall surface. I think I went back over with 80 grit last. It made just even enough finish that the builder was happy as could be.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Thanks-
Thats very cool but other tools higher on my list for that kind o money.

Thinking he means to rent. No need to purchase.

 

[sqznby]

All good info...
Can someone direct me to a link for buffing 101.

I would like to use a portable tool vs bench mount for flat surfaces.

With my small 4 1/2" angle grinder I bought a flapper wheel. It works well but is aggressive. Can one fit a scotch brite or sissal wheel to one of these. It has a threaded shaft mount with a 7/8" OD screw on holding not...so 7/8" arbor hole???

I'll stand by it, you should go out and buy an electric DA sander. They can be had for about $75+- at most hardware stores . The action of a da will give you a uniform pattern, you can also put a piece of scotch brite under it and the Velcro from the tool will hold it in place. You could probably use a sisal wheel on a high speed drill. You can use a flexible wheel adapter on a 4.5" grinder but, it will still be a more aggressive because it is a single action tool. Or find a high speed electric grinder with the flexible pads.

 

[sqznby]

Yep. That's what I did for an architectural project that was about 30 upright support plates for handrail. Plasma cut the profile they wanted for the rail to mount to and DA off the burned edge as well as overall surface. I think I went back over with 80 grit last. It made just even enough finish that the builder was happy as could be.

I have done the same. 40 to start and ended with an 80 grit finish, very pleased with the results as was all of my customers that recommended this finish.
Its an underestimated tool for sure.

 

[bullnerd]

The guys that are mention DA's and scotchbrite, did you do this on 304 plate? or mild steel? Big difference. Like I said, with my experience, it will just make the high spots shiny. Its tough stuff.

 

[scratchedup]

Great info ... Keep it coming.
and I could use the DA on my black cars��