Stainless or wood top for toolbox
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kartracer55
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Well I dont have any experience with what your talkin about, but I love metal tops for working on. If they hold up, Id get the metal, simply because of ease of cleanup.
I know my friends dad has a wide roll around, and it has a wood top, but he also has a steel plate (about 1/8 thick) that he places on top for when hes workin. Its pretty nice.
Jim
I know my friends dad has a wide roll around, and it has a wood top, but he also has a steel plate (about 1/8 thick) that he places on top for when hes workin. Its pretty nice.
Jim
dink
Well-known member
Also with metal...if you do get little dents here and there they are easy to repair...kinda like an auto car
I've had a laminated top I bought from home depot about 20 years ago on top of
my snap-on roll-around. It has held up great. I use it for light assembly work. I use a galvanised steel top bench or my OSB topped bench for projects that need more persuasion. Works well for me.YRMV
my snap-on roll-around. It has held up great. I use it for light assembly work. I use a galvanised steel top bench or my OSB topped bench for projects that need more persuasion. Works well for me.YRMV
danski0224
Well-known member
Depends what you plan on doing with it.
My experience working on metal tables tells me that they are slippery and noisy.
I have a wood topped workbench, and the wood gets dented and scratched with use, but the finish is floor wax, so no big deal.
The SS top will dent with use, but those dents probably won't come out so easily.
A wood top will absorb oils, so that may be a concern.
Either looks good.
My experience working on metal tables tells me that they are slippery and noisy.
I have a wood topped workbench, and the wood gets dented and scratched with use, but the finish is floor wax, so no big deal.
The SS top will dent with use, but those dents probably won't come out so easily.
A wood top will absorb oils, so that may be a concern.
Either looks good.
JohnHenrys48
Well-known member
A friend of mine has a large Kennedy roll around, it must be at least 30 x 50. He placed a "plastic" type material on the top. He said that it's the same material that cutting boards are made of. It's an opaque white color and 1/2 inch think, he put a 1/4 inch round over on the edge. It's about the best work surface I've seen. Doesn't dent or damage parts you lay on it and it cleans up fairly well...it does have some discoloration from grease/oil.
Adam McLaughlin
Well-known member
You can always make your own top for your box; that is what I did. I made mine out of Brushed Stainless in 16 GA. After folding the edges down I TIG welded the corners and then polished them smooth.
Not shown in the picture is a piece of black rubber that I put on top of the brushed stainless to protect the appearance.
Adam
Not shown in the picture is a piece of black rubber that I put on top of the brushed stainless to protect the appearance.
Adam
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
I like wood, hate the noise of metal. Wood works well if you do it right. I'm going on 6 years with my top, and although it shows a few dents/burns/wear, it's nothing big.
If I get a dent in it, I have a can of varnish in my box, and at the end of the night, I just put some varnish in it, and do that every night until the dent gets filled in. That's pretty rare, though.
I have about $200 in my setup (cabinet included), including all wood, hinges, handles, plexiglass, two outlets, 50' of 10-2 cord and a twist-lock end.
The top is a 36" solid core oak entrance door I got at an auction for $15 or so. That was just enough for me to be able to rip it to 30" and get rid of the keyhole. The routered trim pieces on the edge keep things from rolling off, I would never go back to a flat top, especially if you roll your box around.
I sand it (usually not to bare wood) and put 8-10 coats of spar varnish on it every 2-3 years.
It's sturdy enough to spin the 2500 lb box in circles with the brakes locked while reefing on things in the vise.
The top isn't attached, never had a reason too. I cut grooves in the back of it to drop on the lip of the box. I figure it'll be good for around 15 years total, at which point I'll get another door, knock the trim pieces of this and put it on that one, and go again.
If I get a dent in it, I have a can of varnish in my box, and at the end of the night, I just put some varnish in it, and do that every night until the dent gets filled in. That's pretty rare, though.
I have about $200 in my setup (cabinet included), including all wood, hinges, handles, plexiglass, two outlets, 50' of 10-2 cord and a twist-lock end.
The top is a 36" solid core oak entrance door I got at an auction for $15 or so. That was just enough for me to be able to rip it to 30" and get rid of the keyhole. The routered trim pieces on the edge keep things from rolling off, I would never go back to a flat top, especially if you roll your box around.
I sand it (usually not to bare wood) and put 8-10 coats of spar varnish on it every 2-3 years.
It's sturdy enough to spin the 2500 lb box in circles with the brakes locked while reefing on things in the vise.
The top isn't attached, never had a reason too. I cut grooves in the back of it to drop on the lip of the box. I figure it'll be good for around 15 years total, at which point I'll get another door, knock the trim pieces of this and put it on that one, and go again.
You can always make your own top for your box; that is what I did. I made mine out of Brushed Stainless in 16 GA. After folding the edges down I TIG welded the corners and then polished them smooth.
Not shown in the picture is a piece of black rubber that I put on top of the brushed stainless to protect the appearance.
Adam
Very nice Adam, looks great! What model box is that?
ron in sc
Well-known member
I bought a used Snap on toolbox that came with a wood top. The guy I bought it from said he got wood because he figured if he got stainless steel he might be more inclined to use the top of the toolbox as a work surface and end up damaging the toolbox.
I would also add that the top on my toolbox is really to high for me to use it as a work surface and besides I have two other nice work surfaces one a 67" long stainless steel countertop and the other a 72" long aluminum topped workbench. Both the workbench top and the countertop get scrathed up easily.
I would also add that the top on my toolbox is really to high for me to use it as a work surface and besides I have two other nice work surfaces one a 67" long stainless steel countertop and the other a 72" long aluminum topped workbench. Both the workbench top and the countertop get scrathed up easily.
LoneGunman
Well-known member
Damn nice top Nissan. I'd opt for wood unless you just want the top to be there for looks or very minor work, meaning no bashing. If you WORK on a steel top it will dent and eventually look like ****. Let me smack one of the steel tops with a large ball peen and see what happens to the top, I nice thick wood top obviously won't dent like sheetmetal will. The only working top I's put on a box would be starting at 3/16" thickness. Unless I'm mistaken all of the steel tops for the big name boxes are all sheetmetal.
Adam, your top looks awesome.
Adam, your top looks awesome.
nissan_crawler
Well-known member
NIce job on that box, adam.
bassbone52
Well-known member
I have a sheet of 3/8" thick white plexiglass on my Macsimizer. It holds up well and is very easy to clean up.
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nate379
Banned
If I did metal, I'd use a piece of 1/4 or 3/8" so I would weld stuff do it (jigs and what not)
tankboy_taylor
Well-known member
go with the stainless top the snap on one although expensive makes a great work service the front has raised edge so stuff wont roll off you can ding it however.
I use to think wood was the way to go but after seeing the way they wear,crack,splinter,warp,etc im glad i went with stainless plus it low maintenence
I use to think wood was the way to go but after seeing the way they wear,crack,splinter,warp,etc im glad i went with stainless plus it low maintenence
nate379
Banned
Wood is cheap though. I made a butcher block top years ago out of cut in 1/2 2x4s. 3ftwide 8ft long. It costs me about $25
canuckian
Well-known member
I'm going with stainless on mine if I can stop buying tools for a little bit to save up the $$ for it.
I may be waiting a looong time for my stainless top
I may be waiting a looong time for my stainless top
shampoop
Well-known member
I like steel. The cutting board plastic sounds like a cool idea though. Most important thing to me is that the surface doesn't get beat up, and cleans up easily.
Beaubeau
Well-known member
The snap on stainless tops have wood on the infill anyway.
Greatwhitewing
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I have craftsman stainless tops and really really like it over the wooden tops it covers. Will dent when struck with a hammer in anger (or so I am told, I would never..). Easy to clean up and looks way cool...
Nissan_Crawler's tool box is certainly one to model. I am new here and appreciate the opportunity to learn about improving the work environment. I knew a guy who managed the cabinet making shop for the Library of Congress, and later had his own shop. On tables, work benches and large working tool carriers like Nissan_Crawler's he laminated 1/4 masonite for the work surface to 1/2 plywood and then used varnish coat(s) for a hard surface. He put a bevel on the edge with a router and it offered a nice work surface.
kenburkholz
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I went with a 1/8" 304 stainless steel top for my main tool box and have found no problems of any kind with it. Underneath it is supported by 2" of H.D.F, and a 1/8" X 2"X 2" stainless angle. Ken.
I have wood topped benches, a pair of stainless benches, and a table with a 1/2” plate top... Each one excels at a different job. If I had to pick one it would be the heavy stainless table with the “ Marine” edge.
Truth be known my favorite bench top was the one I grew up with in my grampas shop. It was a dozen or more 2x12’s glued and screwed together on edge. Made for a massive solid bench top. Completely saturated with oil over the years gave it an almost cast iron pan like seasoning. Need to hold something... screw it down to the bench. Working on an odd shaped part... Bore a hole and make it sit level.
Built as a sacrificial top that was a means to an end. But built so well that it was still fully functional after 40 years of daily use.
Truth be known my favorite bench top was the one I grew up with in my grampas shop. It was a dozen or more 2x12’s glued and screwed together on edge. Made for a massive solid bench top. Completely saturated with oil over the years gave it an almost cast iron pan like seasoning. Need to hold something... screw it down to the bench. Working on an odd shaped part... Bore a hole and make it sit level.
Built as a sacrificial top that was a means to an end. But built so well that it was still fully functional after 40 years of daily use.
Wamsutta
Well-known member
Kennedy had a top one time that was made out of laminated phenolic. I had one on my Kennedy box before I sold it. The top was super-super flat and very dense. It reminded me of a piano bench. When you set a spray can on it, that spray can did not move because of how flat the surface is.
geartow
Well-known member
a top box is my answer the tops just cut future growth in my opinion . But I have never owned just a bottom box.
In a working shop and intending use it for more than counter top I would go ply oil or inset with tempered hardboard. if mounting vice 3/4 2 layers and steel plate load spreader on inside.
It cheap, done well looks good and doesn't lead to damaged surfaces like stainless can .
You can also refresh the top as needed no major cost .
I got both and wood done well is most useful and easiest maintain at sensible cost .
steel plate my second choice and stainless last ...
Heavy rubber matting also very useful work surface .
It cheap, done well looks good and doesn't lead to damaged surfaces like stainless can .
You can also refresh the top as needed no major cost .
I got both and wood done well is most useful and easiest maintain at sensible cost .
steel plate my second choice and stainless last ...
Heavy rubber matting also very useful work surface .
flushcut
Well-known member
For me there is just something comforting about a oil stained rock maple butcher block top. Patina, if you will. Two of my benches are butcher block and the other is 1/4" plate for light fab work. IMO a toolbox is just that a toolbox not a bench but I'd go wood.
Professional Tool User
Well-known member
Steel might be a tad more durable, but it doesn't really matter. Anyone who wants to prevent damage will put a rubber mat on.
sweet victory
Well-known member
I prefer a sterile work space. No FOD or left over fluids from a previous job. Stainless top for me.
derosa
Well-known member
This is a bit of a bump from 2008. I'm heading to the local counter place and seeing about a stone top, something that comes out of a broken counter or a sink cutout to keep it cheap. I like to work on old hand planes and the stone top will be perfect for lapping the planes and the blades with sandpaper.