Stainless work surface for tool box

[Sblake927]

Hey guys I've been looking into getting a more durable work surface material for my tool box. I have a snap-on KRL1022 and I was thinking of purchasing a sheet of stainless steel to lay on top of the rubber mat. My thinking is that the stainless will be a more durable surface, will be easier to clean, but I don't want to pay a ton of money for the stainless snap-on work surface. Has anyone else done this? Let me know what y'all think.

 

[Tim_P]

I have stainless on top of my workbench for years, love it.

 

[TNToy]

Stainless tops are the premium choice for a workbench or toolbox worktop.

If you can afford one, install it.

You can write notes on it in sharpie and erase them with brake cleaner - I used my work box top as a dry erase board while pulling down unfamiliar timing belts, etc for years.

That's the greatest advantage of a SS top.

 

[pi_guy]

I have a krl 1032 & 1033 with stainless tops they are great.
Bought a KRA used put a 20 x 39 1/4 alum plate with a 1760 vise on it that I have at a clients site.

 

[SkinnyG]

You can write notes on it in sharpie and erase them with brake cleaner - I used my work box top as a dry erase board while pulling down unfamiliar timing belts, etc for years.

That's the greatest advantage of a SS top.

In my decade of having a stainless top on my tool box, I don't know why this never occurred to me. Mind blown.

 

[90zcar]

I have done this now for two toolboxes as well as my welding cart

My first time doing this was a harbor freight 56" box. I riveted it to the top along the perimeter and made a front lip out of alum angle to keep stuff from rolling forward. The back of the stainless has a half inch tall 90* break
That was 2 years ago. The box was replaced with a snap on krl that I scored for 1200 bucks

Now let's move on to my snap on double bank. Snap on wants 7-800 dollars for their stainless top. Screw that I'll make another one. This time I went a little further with it. I made another front lip for it again that I notched out around the lock to give it a factory look. I riveted it around the perimeter but I went a step further and applied a 2 part panel bond adhesive around the edge to keep liquids from getting underneath and possibly rusting the top of the box. The back has a bent lip aswell. I built this for about $50

Masking off to apply the panel bond border


Any more pics of this you would like or info I'll help you out with.

Also did a little harbor freight welding cart that I added a handle to. It's got a bend in the front and a lip in the back



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[ScottsGT]

I've had two sheets of stainless for many years now after a friend remodeled his kitchen and bought them to glue to the side of his fridge. After he got the fridge in place he decided he liked the black sides.
He was about to haul them off to the scrap yard after paying $$hundreds$$ for them. But I think they are 24" wide and 72" tall. Glad I saved them from the scrapper. Now I just need to use them.

 

[dr_clyde]

If you call up your local steel supply, they may have a drop of a sheet that will cost you less. I would think you'd want 11 or 12 ga with the 2B finish. Its very smooth and easy to clean, but scratches show easy. The #4 brush looks nicer and hides scratches better, but has some texture so consider that as well.

Me personally, I would call up the laser shop and send them a drawing of my top, and have one cut to fit.

I just had a 1/4" thick stainless plate quoted from the laser shop for my KR1000 and it was around $250

 

[90zcar]

1/4" thick???? Can I ask why you think you need something so thick. The stainless on the factory snap on tops I think are 18g. I used 18 on my last box and 16g surgical on my snap on which is more than thick enough to be throwing big parts and such on.
If you think you need it super thick so you can "beat" on things. Remember that it's just a toolbox made of essentially "sheet metal". That is what a work bench is made for.


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[Sblake927]

Thanks for the advice and suggestions guys, Ill give my local steel dealer a call tomorrow and see what they have.

 

[Ruger_556]

1/4" thick???? Can I ask why you think you need something so thick. The stainless on the factory snap on tops I think are 18g. I used 18 on my last box and 16g surgical on my snap on which is more than thick enough to be throwing big parts and such on.
If you think you need it super thick so you can "beat" on things. Remember that it's just a toolbox made of essentially "sheet metal". That is what a work bench is made for.


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So you can "beat" on things of course I have a 1/4" mild steel top on my box, not sure I'd put 1/4" stainless on there though...

 

[pi_guy]

So you can "beat" on things of course I have a 1/4" mild steel top on my box, not sure I'd put 1/4" stainless on there though...

Beating is one of my answers, but also I work with alum / mg cases and SS and steel are much harder than alum. So if something falls like a gear it will not get dinged it will ding the top. Rather have a scratched top than a damaged gear ratio.
Plus I have a honking 6.5 inch vise on it and that helps distribute the load over a larger area.
My other reason to select the thickness and type is to be able to tap holes and put in brackets to hold items such as a support to keep the hewland gearcase stable and secure for operations.

 

[dr_clyde]

I quoted 1/4" so I can use it as a work surface that won't dent and it will be reasonably flat. I use my toolbox as a portable welding table at work to fit up sanitary pipe fittings. I have 1/2" mild on it now, and I don't want to spend the coin to get 1/2" stainless.

 

[dr_clyde]

I also have a vise bolted to it.