Stainless work top

[06malibu]

Looking into making a couple wooden work benches and I’d like to use stainless steel tops. I can get material from work. Anyone where form .018 up to .125. Preferably I’d like to use something around .048 to .075.

Has anyone made anything like this themselves? How would you go about mourning to the bench without making an uneven surface. I imagine I could bend the edges down but I do not have access to a metal brake. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[strength_and_power]

Forming stainless without a brake will probably not yield a consistent product. If you are getting the material free, use the saved dollars and have a fab shop form the edges.
As far as mounting, liquid nails will work just fine. If you want it removable ever, not a good idea, use screws from the sides


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[NUTTSGT]

mourning to the bench ? I'd assume mounting ?


If you can get from work, do they not have a brake ?

If not, check local for a machine shop and inquire about them bending what you have or what it would cost for them to do it.

Adding a location to your profile will help your fellow members make suggestions on where to go if you're fairly local to them.

 

[James-W]

Stainless steel makes a really nice surface for a workbench if you want to work on small engines or things of that nature. For woodworking projects I don't find it to be all that wonderful.

 

[tachyon]

I made a top out of 11 gauge several years ago and had the edges folded on a brake. One for the front edge and one for a backstop. It is heavy, so I didn’t even fasten it in place.

To finish it (and refinish) I used 220 dirt on an orbital sander. Easy to touch up and looks like a million bucks.


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[jeepinerdeep]

If you don't plan on going ape-ey on it, a few beads of silicone will stick it in place if you are just skinning the top of MDF or plywood.

 

[EatonEggbeater]

I made a countertop out of 14ga SS, bent without a brake.

On the underside I scribed a line where the bend would be and used an abrasive blade to score it. The metal bent perfectly along that line.

Then I blew through it trying to TIG weld it. If I was to do it again, (considering my meager TIG skills VS. thinnish stainless steel) I'd silicon-bronze it from the back.

For you, I'd bend it and leave it that way; the corner should be plenty strong.

Just take your time scoring the metal, it doesn't have to be thin, just a bit weaker than the surrounding metal.

Mike

-edit- I bought a SS restaurant prep table to use as a grounding work table for projects, hence the mediocre TIG weld. (Your SS top will be a good and constant ground plane, engineer in a place for a welding grounding clamp, while you're there.)

 

[ZipSnafu]

The bench I have with a SS top already was bent when I got it. I would use some Liquid Nails or similar product to adhere it to the bench top. The SS really does make for a great top and cleans up easy.

 

[mineallmine]

I built a welding table and got 1/4 stainless for the top (got all steel from a guy selling it for scrap value... 40 cents a pound then...gave me stainless for the same price).

I brought it to a shop and they did 2 bends in it for me (I marked where I wanted it bent) for $20 cash deal. Shop around...it only takes a minute to brake it and easy cash in someone's pocket, and you get a nice clean bend that strengthens up the stainless.

As for mounting, can't help there. I welded mine on with stainless rods as it's a welding table...no wood.

 

[mineallmine]

I made a countertop out of 14ga SS, bent without a brake.

On the underside I scribed a line where the bend would be and used an abrasive blade to score it. The metal bent perfectly along that line.

Then I blew through it trying to TIG weld it. If I was to do it again, (considering my meager TIG skills VS. thinnish stainless steel) I'd silicon-bronze it from the back.

For you, I'd bend it and leave it that way; the corner should be plenty strong.

Just take your time scoring the metal, it doesn't have to be thin, just a bit weaker than the surrounding metal.

Mike

-edit- I bought a SS restaurant prep table to use as a grounding work table for projects, hence the mediocre TIG weld. (Your SS top will be a good and constant ground plane, engineer in a place for a welding grounding clamp, while you're there.)

You have to be careful scoring the metal then bending it. May work better for thin gauge SS but I tried that on 1/4" and found the metal started to crack from trying to bend it where it's been ground thinner. The brake worked much better

 

[kenners]

I purchased stainless for the top of two equipto cabinets. I had them bend a 1" lip around all sides and weld up the corners. It just sits on top of cabinets, nothing to secure it in place other than the snug fit.
I also purchased galvanized sheet metal for a shelf liner for scaffolding bench. Had them fold a front lip of about 3" and a back lip up for about 2'. Also had a piece made for each side. Am planning on using for a bench grinding station. Nothing presently holding it secure to 2X frame underneath. Always could use screws.
Like others have said - I would find a place to bend for nominal fee.

 

[ScottsGT]

I've got two sheets of stainless that a friends wife bought to attach to the side of her stainless fridge. Fridge was doors only in stainless. Once she got the kitchen remodeled, she liked the look of the black sides.
They were about to send it off to scrap and I claimed them. They are about 24" wide, just around 6' tall. I'm also thinking about making a bench top out of it. Problem is, I don't want to bend the edges to wrap around, and I have no idea how I want to finish the edges. Thinking about maybe some red oak sides?
This will be the top of my Series 1 HF 44" cabinet if I replace it with the new Series 2.

 

[BikerDad]

I've got two sheets of stainless that a friends wife bought to attach to the side of her stainless fridge. Fridge was doors only in stainless. Once she got the kitchen remodeled, she liked the look of the black sides.
They were about to send it off to scrap and I claimed them. They are about 24" wide, just around 6' tall. I'm also thinking about making a bench top out of it. Problem is, I don't want to bend the edges to wrap around, and I have no idea how I want to finish the edges. Thinking about maybe some red oak sides?
This will be the top of my Series 1 HF 44" cabinet if I replace it with the new Series 2.

Pick your hardwood of choice, and trim it. Red Oak, Hard (rock/sugar) Maple and Ash are all good choices. If you aren't going to put finish on the trim, then go with Maple, otherwise the big *** pores in RO and Ash will fill with gunkies and look dingy in a hurry. You want a HARD hardwood, so avoid balsa, cherry, and poplar. Yes, balsa is a hardwood. You can find ready to go RO and Maple trim at the local big box store usually, or if you're properly equipped, roll your own.

 

[rsanter]

Assuming you have no brake, and I wanted to do this.
I would make the top out of MDF and double it up so it was 1.5” of thicker.
I would router the edge so I could put a piece of angle iron on the front edge and make it flush with the top.
I would then use adhesive to apply the stainless to the MDF and I would use a few countersunk screws along the front edge through the angle iron and into the MDF.

If I had the .125 available I would use that. Otherwise I would choose no thinner than about .070

 

[PhysicsDude]

Menards sells stainless work surfaces for the 54" and 72" tool boxes for $130/$160. They don't list specifics, but it looks like its somewhat thin gauge stainless over a ~1" thick wood core.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...e-reg-work-surface/119828/p-1502778795435.htm

Seems like a cheap and easy way to get a stainless work surface with smooth edges if you ask me. That is, if you have a Menards close by.

Home Depot and Lowes sell NewAge stainless bench tops, which are basically the same thing, but are $200+. Probably higher quality though.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NewAge-...6-in-Stainless-Steel-Work-Top-36756/204858344

 

[gnxtc2]

I had my bench tops made out of 11ga sheetmetal. I gave the dimension to a sheetmetal HVAC duct fabricator.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Bryanthegreat]

Anybody try a bed liner coating on a stainless top? I know Snap on sells them that way just wondering if someone has done it themselves and had good results.