I'm putting together plans for a new 32 x32 shop and have run into a problem. I wanted to put a set of real stairs to access the storage space in the attic. I am trying to place the stairs along one wall to keep from taking up so much space in the shop. But, when I put the math to it I will only have 5 foot of clearance at the top of the stairs due to the roof line. Anyone got any good ideas how to pull this off without redesigning the whole thing? I appreciate any suggestion.
stair head clearance quandry
- Thread starter gregok
- Start date
bomber
Well-known member
have you considered putting the stair outside? not ideal, I know, but depending on the frequecy of accessing the attic, it may be an OK alternative
pattenp
Well-known member
That stairway is AWESOME...reminds me of a ships ladder.
sharpshooter
Well-known member
While that staircase looks "neat" I wouldnt want to be toting anything heavy up and down it.....unless I wanted to come down really really fast 
MXtras
Well-known member
Those staggered tread stairs are dangerous unless you have ample practice ascending/descending them. I've witnessed three guys wind up being hauled away in an ambulance because of similar stairs.
They've been around for decades. They aren't popular for a reason.
Scott
They've been around for decades. They aren't popular for a reason.
Scott
Is the 5 feet from the top stair to the wall or is it the distance from floor to ceiling?
If it is to the wall, and you are running the stairs along the gable end on the building, build the stairs up to a midway platform that lets you turn the direction along the second wall.
If it is to the ceiling, do the same but start the stairs along the eve side of the building so that the second flight ends more to the center.
If it is to the wall, and you are running the stairs along the gable end on the building, build the stairs up to a midway platform that lets you turn the direction along the second wall.
If it is to the ceiling, do the same but start the stairs along the eve side of the building so that the second flight ends more to the center.
CraigFL
Well-known member
Google "lapeyre stairs"
russlaferrera
Well-known member
Make a ladder, then use a hoist and a basket to raise/lower stuff
e-tek
Well-known member
What about boxing the ceiling at the top of the stairs. This would increase the headroom at the top, and make it much easier to get thni ngs into the attick, as the door would be verticle, as opposed to horizontal.
pattenp
Well-known member
I wanted to put permanent stairs to my garage attic but ran into the problem of the ceiling being 12.5’ and the stair run was so long I would have had to put a landing for it to turn. I also had to do a landing for the stairs that go into the house. So with all of that I was losing too much floor space. In the end I put in pull down stairs that come down on the stair landing to the house. To get heavy stuff up and down from the attic I put in a trapdoor in the attic floor and installed a hoist. I also wired a second control on the hoist so I can also run it from the garage floor. My garage attic/roof system are truss on 24” centers.
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ddawg16
Well-known member
What kind of roof are you putting on?
I would think that if you went along the back wall you would enter the attic at the peak.
I would think that if you went along the back wall you would enter the attic at the peak.
BooUrns!
Well-known member
Not if it's a hip roof. You're thinking of standard gable roofs.
If it were a gable roof, I would have started the run heading into the rear corner, put a landing in the corner and then completed the run towards the centre of the gable along the back wall.
How many risers on your plan?
If it were a gable roof, I would have started the run heading into the rear corner, put a landing in the corner and then completed the run towards the centre of the gable along the back wall.
How many risers on your plan?
kvom
Well-known member
FWIW: My new garage has a 13' ceiling and 16" joists with a habitable space above. The staircase runs along the rear wall 20 steps to a landing, then 2 steps to the right to the entrance. While headroom was not an issue, the outside wall was. Because there is no flooring or joists connecting to the wall, it is not as stiff as the other 3 walls. Inspection required that the two halves of the wall be connected with metal straps on each stud across the dividing plate.
Something to consider if you want a full staircase and your ceiling is high.
Something to consider if you want a full staircase and your ceiling is high.
OK, a matter of definition here.
By “hip roof” do you mean a 3 ridge roof like you see on barns?
(Construction guys call these “gambrel roofs.”)
Or are you talking about a pyramid shape?
(This is what a construction guy will call a “hip roof.” Don’t ask me why. I don’t know.)
On the 3 ridge style, you go half way up on the long wall to a square platform with a post support under the inner corner, then up the end wall. The roof will be slanting the same way as the stairs, so you should be OK.
With a pyramid style you would have to do it in thirds. Side wall, center of the end wall, then back into the room.
A 180 degree stairway, with 2 platforms.
Again the idea is to have the stairs slanting the same as the roof.
I have seen it in houses where you can hide it with walls, but never in a one big room garage building.
Either way, go with the trap door and a winch. It will save you time and back aches.
By “hip roof” do you mean a 3 ridge roof like you see on barns?
(Construction guys call these “gambrel roofs.”)
Or are you talking about a pyramid shape?
(This is what a construction guy will call a “hip roof.” Don’t ask me why. I don’t know.)
On the 3 ridge style, you go half way up on the long wall to a square platform with a post support under the inner corner, then up the end wall. The roof will be slanting the same way as the stairs, so you should be OK.
With a pyramid style you would have to do it in thirds. Side wall, center of the end wall, then back into the room.
A 180 degree stairway, with 2 platforms.
Again the idea is to have the stairs slanting the same as the roof.
I have seen it in houses where you can hide it with walls, but never in a one big room garage building.
Either way, go with the trap door and a winch. It will save you time and back aches.
BooUrns!
Well-known member
It's called a hip roof because the framing element you call the 'edge of the pyramid' is called a hip. I've seen it labelled as a Boston hip, but I think that's just where the print drawings originated. These types of rooves have been in use for centuries. The gambrel is just a roof with two slopes.
I'm doubtful that your truss design allows for a floor to be installed above the garage bay. Most people can get away with building a limited use space in the trusses but the building code comes into full effect when you make that area accessible by a permanent stairway. You will need to put down floor joists that conform to code and then you won't be able to make minimum headroom inside the roof space itself. Those floor joist will also have to be supported by a beam that will lower your garage ceiling.
You're better off with a trapdoor/winch or a retractable ladder.
RbrtAWhyt
Well-known member
STClurker
Well-known member
^^^^^^^chaingang
Well-known member
Yes trusses can support a floor above and up to code for living space. Without a beam and or columns below. I am spanning 25 feet with my trusses and have a 17 foot wide room upstairs with a 9 ft ceiling. The drawings are certified and passed without a hitch. The stairs will be on the outside though because of the length, 12ft 6in ceilings dowstairs and 10in bottom chords on the trusses make the strairs about 20ft long.
BooUrns!
Well-known member
Your trusses have been designed to hold a floor (ie. 10" bottom chord = floor joist) and include min. headroom. He would have to change his roof design and get trusses engineered specifically for his structure in order to pass inspection.
I didn't say trusses could not hold a floor. Typical trusses use 2x4 or 2x6 for bottom chords and these are unsuitable for floor loads in all but the shortest spans.
I didn't say trusses could not hold a floor. Typical trusses use 2x4 or 2x6 for bottom chords and these are unsuitable for floor loads in all but the shortest spans.
I have a set in a building that accesses a roof. You have to be thinking about each step or you are heading onto your ****. A royal pain to carry heavy things up as you can't ratchet step up but have to take full steps.