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Stair support questions.....Am I crazy

mkarlin

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Jun 18, 2016
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We are adding stairs to out mezzanine, but want to be able to remove them if needed.

My thought was to fabricate hooks that would go around a 2 inch pipe to support the top of the stairs, so that if we needed to move them to get to the boiler we could.

I am considering using 2 inch OD stainless steel pipe either welded or threaded into floor flanges secured to the wood structure.


Picture show the temporary ladder that is present now.
 

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wssix99

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Chicago, IL

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wssix99

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cgrutt

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Library ladder is available in different lengths with or without hand railing. Rolling safety ladder certainly more robust but not sure if you have clearance for it or if they are available in size needed.

Screenshot_20240310_221835_Chrome.jpg
 

PCustoms

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VT
We are adding stairs to out mezzanine, but want to be able to remove them if needed.

My thought was to fabricate hooks that would go around a 2 inch pipe to support the top of the stairs, so that if we needed to move them to get to the boiler we could.

I am considering using 2 inch OD stainless steel pipe either welded or threaded into floor flanges secured to the wood structure.


Picture show the temporary ladder that is present now.
How often to you go up there?

Can you dona "ships ladder" that hinges up?
 

The Cobbler

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Oct 24, 2013
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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
stairs will get quite heavy . sound's like you won't need to move them all that often, just in case sort of .
some type of hinging system sounds good. or bolted in place so they can be removed if necessary
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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oregon
If the only reason to move the ladder is to access the plumbing behind them consider fastening them to the floor at the bottom. With a hinge at the bottom fixed to the floor you could piviot the ladder into a verticle position resting on the opposite side of the access opening. Easy to move out of the way yet still secured and unable to fall.

lg
no neat sig line
 

jayemm

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up high down low
Would there be frequent trips up to the mezzanine and carrying things. If so, stairs/steps would seem more comfortable and safer than clinging to a ladder.
 

jack stand

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Lakes Region Maine
Officially, they'll never be "stairs" or feel like stairs in that size (run) opening.
I did something very similar 30 years ago without really thinking it through. Just because I had a 4" step, they were really just 4" rungs like a ladder and carrying anything up them was exactly the same as a ladder. Keep in mind that going down forward facing is not going to happen either.
I'm not pooping on your idea, just trying to make sure you know what I learned the long way around. 👍
 
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rayra

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Escaped from Los Angeles
I'd go with a heavier-duty stair ladder at a more useful angle, that is hinged and stores up against the ceiling. But it would probably block the other door when in use.
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
Buddy has an attic ladder up to his storage mezzanine. We don't carry much up and down the stairs, there is a door that opens out and has a clutched block and tackle. Object is hung from hook and lowered from down on the ground.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I used a ladder just like you have for my garage attic for 20 years. To make it a little more secure I ran two eyescrews into the surface it leaned against about 4-6" beyond each side. I tied a piece of good braided rope to one eye and had a dog leash hook on the other end of the rope so I could attach to the other eye. I ran the rope through the upside down Vee of the ladder frame. Do similar to yours and pull the feet of the ladder back 12-18" so it isn't so vertical to climb. This will give you a much easier access and a ladder that isn't 100% motion free but still can't in any way fall. Plus the dog leash lets you quick disconnect to use the ladder somewhere else. My next house had a typical pull down attic ladder. What a piece of ****. The steps were 1/2" narrower than my Werner, and the last 3 steps at the top had the plywood panel (that seals off the opening when closed) right at the forward edge of those narrow steps. So now your toes can't extend out beyond the step. You go from the ball of your foot on the lower steps to nothing but your toes on the top steps. Our current retirement house I am back to a Werner.
 

BukitCase

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Apr 11, 2017
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Location
Oregon
Mezzanine is 1-1/8" ply over 2x12's on 24" centers, just over 9' from floor - Cleats under treads are glued and screwed, most joints are just pocket holed using 2" pocket screws. I've carried at least 70 lbs (plus my 175) several times, could NOT feel any flex, so not worried about any failure.

I prefer to be able to walk up carrying just about anything I can carry; stringers are glue-lams using 2 layers of 3/4 ply, 12" wide - 5" rise, 12" treads - VERY comfortable rise/run.

The little divots @ top (3rd pic) don't look like it, but they rest on the lower 5/8 Gr.8 bolts at hinge point when stairs are all the way down.

Hoist is rated 1100 lbs, actual weight to lift the staircase (by hand) is less than 200 lbs. The rest of the holes were all thru-bolted AFTER pics were taken.

Stairs are up probably 95% of the time, but are available at the touch of a button; I wouldn't change anything.

Not shown is the full length handrail on left side, made with 1-1/2" square tube .120" wall; added after these pics were taken. The uprights bolt into added "stake pockets" so the rail can be removed if I need to move something too bulky.

The thing that looks like a stolen trailer hitch was actually fabbed for this purpose; for heavier loads, the remaining receiver part is recessed enough NOT to be a tripping hazard... Steve
 

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