ddurrett896
Well-known member
Looking for a stair calculator to access the attic in my garage. Would like something where I can plug in my rise and run and it spits out the # of treads and what they need to be cut at. Thanks!
Stair Tread Calculator
- Thread starter ddurrett896
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readhead
Well-known member
That is any calculator. Start with a 7” rise and a 11” run and dial it in from there.
wrenchguy
Well-known member
i'd use 10" as starting point for ur run. A normal 2x12 is 11 1/2 so if u want a single board tread with overhang go with something around 10".
jhrodd
Well-known member
It doesn't need to be built to code if your not accessing living space greater than 200 sq.ft. First measure your total height and divide by the number of risers (number of treads +1) if you want to meet code for most areas the risers can't exceed 7 3/4" so for example 120" total rise divided by 15 = 8" not to code, so divided by 16 = 7 1/2" depending on how much space you have your tread can be anywhere from 10" - 12" plus a 3/4" nose although 12 3/4" is a pretty wide step, I imagine someone with size 14 feet might not think so. In this case 16 risers results in 15 treads and with a 10" run it will take up 150" of floor space. The nose on the tread has no effect on the rise/run. In my old shop I used a set of salvaged stair stringers to access my loft, only I turned them upside down to save space with an 8" tread and an 11 1/2" riser. For occasional use it worked fine. Also don't forget to subtract the thickness of the first tread from your first riser.
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god calculator here. plug in your measurements . lots of info available if you play around with it .
https://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/stairseng.aspx
https://www.blocklayer.com/stairs/stairseng.aspx
However you end up planning it, get it right!! Make scale drawings, measure the page, all that.
A few years ago I had to correct a stairway that was so far off it was hard to believe - after careful inspection and measurement, it turned out the stringers had been installed upside down (the clue was the treads had equal rise between them, but way short at the top and way tall at the bottom). A building inspector caught this during some remodeling better than 20 years after the house had been built!
Basement stairs, but firmly attached to walls. Fixing it was a real task.
A few years ago I had to correct a stairway that was so far off it was hard to believe - after careful inspection and measurement, it turned out the stringers had been installed upside down (the clue was the treads had equal rise between them, but way short at the top and way tall at the bottom). A building inspector caught this during some remodeling better than 20 years after the house had been built!
Basement stairs, but firmly attached to walls. Fixing it was a real task.
OP
ddurrett896
Well-known member
This link is the ticket. Built them last weekend and came out perfect.
Question. I attached the top of the stringers to the landing using Simpson brackets.
On the bottom of the risers, they are just sitting on the floor with no kicker secured to the floor. Below is a link to pretty much exactly what I did.
Do I really need a kicker? don't really want to drill and anchor into my slab if I don't need to. Thanks!
cdestuck
Well-known member
Look at DECKS.com. Great calculator there
I built my basement stairs with 8" rise and 8" run (2x10 tread with 1 1/2 overhang). I had limited space in an old house but they are comfortable for almost daily use. I would not use less than a 2x10 for the treads.
The old stairs I replaced had less rise but only 7" treads. Those were dangerous for regular use. Especially since the front edge of the treads had been worn smooth.
Whoops, guess the stairs are already built. I did not use a kicker at the bottom of mine. If the top is solidly attached I can't see a big need.
The old stairs I replaced had less rise but only 7" treads. Those were dangerous for regular use. Especially since the front edge of the treads had been worn smooth.
Whoops, guess the stairs are already built. I did not use a kicker at the bottom of mine. If the top is solidly attached I can't see a big need.
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SGKent
Banned
to reach an attic in a garage I would be looking at a pull down.
Jon_E
Well-known member
This is the one I used for the stairs in my garage.
https://www.mycarpentry.com/stair-calculator.html
https://www.mycarpentry.com/stair-calculator.html
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
that is a bold and possibly incorrect statement.
code or not, stairs should be built with great care. small variations in step height and depth can create a significant trip hazard.
sz0k30
Well-known member
rayra
Well-known member
yep, that's the common / most-used size and you need to stick close to that for comfort and safety. Stray too far and you won't dig it and may cause a stumble / fall.
Ray-CA
Well-known member
I just used one of these.....https://www.google.com/search?q=pul...3.69i57j0l7.5836j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Ray
Ray
wrenchguy
Well-known member
The OP's stairs are built "with risers on the floor" and asking about a "kicker" whatever that is.
Milzo
Well-known member
By kicker you mean a 2x fastened to the floor between the stringers to hold them from moving? If they are against a wall that’s not needed if you fastened the outside stringer to the wall. If they are in the open I would add just one in the middle with some tapcons. I am about to build my stairs next week.
I am assuming a kicker would attach the bottom of the stringers to the concrete. It wasn't my term, the op used the term in post 7.
When is something like that required or desirable? Here is the stairs I was talking about. Feel free to pick the construction apart. I am aware of a couple things that are less than standard. Too steep being one but they are comfortable to use.
Attachments
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