Stall mat

[grabeb]

I need something to put down in my garage. I originally thought garage tiles, Seemed to get talked out of that because I might grind or weld in there. Most of that wouldn't likely happen in the garage, but can't rule it out.

I currently have a mix of anti fatigue mats and a decent size piece of outdoor tweed rug. The rug was given to me used and it's getting pretty worn. It is nice for an open area I use to sit, but it needs to go. I then move the anti fatigue mats around some as they don't work well to park on, but I have them under my four post and by work bench.

I need something for my feet and knees that offers cushion and would be nice if I could drive on.

Neighbor had horse stall mat in his garage gym and it's nice to be on. Tractor supply has them on sale, so I'm tempted to go grab a few, but before I start down that road I came to inquire once more.

The floor space is about 800sqft I'd eventually like to cover the entire floor and park on it and place lift over it.

The stall mat from tractor supply has buttons on the bottom to allow airflow and they hold up to horses and ice seem people say buy that for under lift pads, but how would it hold up to cars?

I also thought about just lining the perimeter and the middle, between cars, leaving the parking spots outlined and thus free of mats.

Are these a horrible idea?

I think race deck or something like that was my first thought, not sure if those would be easy on the knees though.

 

[shade]

I have about 400sq ft of stall mats for my motorcycles.
They are very durable and the cars won't do any damage to them.

 

[BillK]

I think it will be hard to find something that will cushion you for walking but still be able to drive on it. I have a couple of lengths of old conveyor belt in front of a few of my benches. They hold up to almost anything and help cushion my feet. At home if I am working on one of my cars and need to kneel I just use a garden kneeling pad.

 

[AC-WC]

I would be cautious about rubber floor mats. If they get any grease/oil on them they bubble up like crazy and will never flatten out. I did the horse stall rubber in the bed of my truck and it's been really good except for the above item. My chainsaw leaked some overnight and I didn't realize it.

 

[grabeb]

I would be cautious about rubber floor mats. If they get any grease/oil on them they bubble up like crazy and will never flatten out. I did the horse stall rubber in the bed of my truck and it's been really good except for the above item. My chainsaw leaked some overnight and I didn't realize it.

Any pics for reference? Not doubting, just curious. I have the harbor freight anti fatigue mats and oil spills, power steering leaks, etc haven't affected them, so I'm genuinely curious what's different.

I just know my knees and get can't take the concrete.

 

[SBAG]

Not directly related to the topic, but Harbor freight has two different versions of the anti fatigue mats and they both claim 1/2 inch. One version is closer to 3/8. Two stacked up is about the same height as a 3/4 stall mat. So areas around benches, I’ve stacked two HF mats and kind of pin them in place with stall mats which line all of the main walkways and fill out some of the project areas.

Bit more squish in some areas and a bit more durability and firmness for carts where it’s needed.

I don’t think there’s even a difference in the stock numbers for the HF mats but definitely different manufacturers.

 

[jkeyser14]

I have Tractor Supply horse stall mats under my tractor to keep my implements from scratching the concrete. No issues with them at all. Be warned though, they are surprisingly heavy.

 

[JeepYJ]

Be warned though, they are surprisingly heavy.

They are difficult to handle.
A C clamp screwed down along the edge makes a good handle. Or fold them and tie them with twine. It makes them smaller and gives you something to use as a handle.

 

[AC-WC]

Any pics for reference? Not doubting, just curious. I have the harbor freight anti fatigue mats and oil spills, power steering leaks, etc haven't affected them, so I'm genuinely curious what's different.

I just know my knees and get can't take the concrete.

Sorry for the delay, I always struggle trying to download pics from my phone
The 2 areas are about the size of a baseball and are maybe 1-1 1/2" tall.
Note these are straight rubber not a PVC. Rubber when exposed to oil breaks down over time. Same reason your radiator hose gets soft when engine oil gets on it. The HF mats look to be a neoprene which may be more resistant to oil?? Or the oil was wiped up right away. Mine sat overnight.

 

[grabeb]

Sorry for the delay, I always struggle trying to download pics from my phone
The 2 areas are about the size of a baseball and are maybe 1-1 1/2" tall.
Note these are straight rubber not a PVC. Rubber when exposed to oil breaks down over time. Same reason your radiator hose gets soft when engine oil gets on it. The HF mats look to be a neoprene which may be more resistant to oil?? Or the oil was wiped up right away. Mine sat overnight.

That's definitely something to take note of and I appreciate.

The HF mats are nice and I have not noticed different thickness, but have wondered if all the same as some don't like to lock together as well to others.

My biggest issue with the HF mats is when the floor gets wet they become sails on the floor. The oil doesn't bother them, but a wet floor is downright scary!

 

[Shea]

If you are considering using the horse stall mats for anti-fatigue purposes, I highly recommend purchasing just one to try out. They are much more dense and harder than an anti-fatigue mat. They are designed for 1000 lb plus animals. They work well for weight lifters because they will absorb hundreds of pounds of weight plates being dropped on them. However, they were not designed to provide cushion for 180 lb humans.

 

[KSJeff]

Didn't park on them but they are very popular for deadlift platforms and I had one setup for me and my son in the shop for years. I would think a full deadlift bar @675lbs would be more damaging than tires. Can't speak to chemical spills though. Never had those.

 

[grabeb]

In response to the last two comments.

If you are considering using the horse stall mats for anti-fatigue purposes, I highly recommend purchasing just one to try out. They are much more dense and harder than an anti-fatigue mat. They are designed for 1000 lb plus animals. They work well for weight lifters because they will absorb hundreds of pounds of weight plates being dropped on them. However, they were not designed to provide cushion for 180 lb humans.

I get that and I still have the HF mats, I could place for that purpose. Maybe I'm wrong, but they have to be softer than the concrete. I am also looking for something to help absorb the cold in the winter. I currently have a mix of HF mats, and old rugs, then lots of uncovered concrete. I've noticed anything helps.

Didn't park on them but they are very popular for deadlift platforms and I had one setup for me and my son in the shop for years. I would think a full deadlift bar @675lbs would be more damaging than tires. Can't speak to chemical spills though. Never had those.

Spills could be an issue it seems. I try to keep my car(s) from leaking, but it never fails. I tend to save cardboard for that reason. Works wonders in the spill trays on the lift.

 

[grabeb]

I ordered some samples from Rubber Flooring Inc and got them today, so thanks to them for those. They look nice, but they too aren't very soft as I expected. Wonder what everyone's response is to something like that vs concrete? Would 100% look amazing.

I will add, neither concrete nor asphalt are antifatigue in nature, but go for a walk on both and report back for which is BY FAR easier on the joints. I used to run a lot, still wish I did....HUGE difference going from concrete, to asphalt, to grass or dirt. Heck I could run in a pair of shoes one day and the next could barely stand to mow lawn in them.

 

[Shea]

In response to the last two comments.


I get that and I still have the HF mats, I could place for that purpose. Maybe I'm wrong, but they have to be softer than the concrete. I am also looking for something to help absorb the cold in the winter. I currently have a mix of HF mats, and old rugs, then lots of uncovered concrete. I've noticed anything helps.


Spills could be an issue it seems. I try to keep my car(s) from leaking, but it never fails. I tend to save cardboard for that reason. Works wonders in the spill trays on the lift.

Yes, just about any free-floating flooring is going to be softer than concrete. In terms of spills, oils and gas can cause issues if allowed to sit. If you do some searching, some people have commented on the horse stall mats curling due to being exposed to oils and gas. If you are fairly quick on your cleanup, it may not be an issue. Something to be aware of is that horse stall mat specs in terms of sizing and thickness are not consistent. You will get the occasional mat that is slightly bigger or smaller as well as thicker or thinner. If aesthetics aren't really important to you, then it should not be that big of a deal.

We've had interlocking flooring in our past home for almost 8 years. It is a night and day difference over concrete in terms of anti-fatigue. I'm one who can spend hours in the garage working on cars and other projects. After installing and having floor coatings for almost 30 years, I immediately noticed the difference in anti-fatigue properties with interlocking tiles. They do a good job of insulating from the cold floor as well. Solid top tiles are much easier on the knees than the self-draining, ribbed tiles.

I forgot to add: If you are looking at the Nitro tiles, they are thinner than the industry standard and made overseas. If you decide on interlocking tiles and the budget allows for it, U.S.-made tiles are thicker and more durable. We posted a vide on budget interlocking tiles that includes the Nitro brand that you may help you.

 

[grabeb]

Yes, just about any free-floating flooring is going to be softer than concrete. In terms of spills, oils and gas can cause issues if allowed to sit. If you do some searching, some people have commented on the horse stall mats curling due to being exposed to oils and gas. If you are fairly quick on your cleanup, it may not be an issue. Something to be aware of is that horse stall mat specs in terms of sizing and thickness are not consistent. You will get the occasional mat that is slightly bigger or smaller as well as thicker or thinner. If aesthetics aren't really important to you, then it should not be that big of a deal.

We've had interlocking flooring in our past home for almost 8 years. It is a night and day difference over concrete in terms of anti-fatigue. I'm one who can spend hours in the garage working on cars and other projects. After installing and having floor coatings for almost 30 years, I immediately noticed the difference in anti-fatigue properties with interlocking tiles. They do a good job of insulating from the cold floor as well. Solid top tiles are much easier on the knees than the self-draining, ribbed tiles.

I forgot to add: If you are looking at the Nitro tiles, they are thinner than the industry standard and made overseas. If you decide on interlocking tiles and the budget allows for it, U.S.-made tiles are thicker and more durable. We posted a vide on budget interlocking tiles that includes the Nitro brand that you may help you.

Had a chance to review this the other day, much appreciated. I really like the diamond plate one, forget the brand. I'll have to re-watch. My question now is, Can I sit my 4 post on these or will it damage them? I am 99% confident everything says the stall mats are fine for this and even suggest that material between the concrete and the lift if something wanted.

One more, when I had my floor poured, I told them I wanted pretty flat, level floor. I do have a floor drain toward the opening so I can broom/squeegee water over and it goes to a dry well outside. My reason for wanting the more flat floor was I didn't want much slope where the lift was to go. I guess I underestimated how much water comes in with wet cars and the center part of floor tends to hold the water for a little while. Will solid tiles let that pass through to the underside and are those grooves enough to let the water move around and dry out?

Trying to decide if I should run a perimeter of grooved tile mixed in....

 

[Shea]

Had a chance to review this the other day, much appreciated. I really like the diamond plate one, forget the brand. I'll have to re-watch. My question now is, Can I sit my 4 post on these or will it damage them? I am 99% confident everything says the stall mats are fine for this and even suggest that material between the concrete and the lift if something wanted.

One more, when I had my floor poured, I told them I wanted pretty flat, level floor. I do have a floor drain toward the opening so I can broom/squeegee water over and it goes to a dry well outside. My reason for wanting the more flat floor was I didn't want much slope where the lift was to go. I guess I underestimated how much water comes in with wet cars and the center part of floor tends to hold the water for a little while. Will solid tiles let that pass through to the underside and are those grooves enough to let the water move around and dry out?

Trying to decide if I should run a perimeter of grooved tile mixed in....

You have two choices with a four-post lift. You can anchor the lift directly to the concrete and cut the tiles around it or you can place it directly on the tile and anchor through them into the concrete. The tiles will withstand thousands of pounds as long as the surface area is flat.

Solid top tiles will allow some water to pass through at the seams, but not much. You would need to squeegee or broom out any excess that collects. The channels cut into the underside of the tiles allow for water drainage and air circulation. You would need to use the self-draining style of tiles if want water to pass directly through.

 

[grabeb]

You have two choices with a four-post lift. You can anchor the lift directly to the concrete and cut the tiles around it or you can place it directly on the tile and anchor through them into the concrete. The tiles will withstand thousands of pounds as long as the surface area is flat.

Solid top tiles will allow some water to pass through at the seams, but not much. You would need to squeegee or broom out any excess that collects. The channels cut into the underside of the tiles allow for water drainage and air circulation. You would need to use the self-draining style of tiles if want water to pass directly through.

My lift isn't bolted and doesn't need to be. So, I'm taking it setting on top is fine.

I'll have to think about the self-draining. I've thought about going black border then silver/gray border around the black and then maybe black/red checkerboard inside of that. Might divide the garage in two with the black/gray, so thinking maybe do the gray in drainage, that way any moisture isn't setting on top of the rest and can hit the concrete and disappear. I just hope that wouldn't cause any moisture/mold/mildew issues if it doesn't go away quickly.

 

[Shea]

My lift isn't bolted and doesn't need to be. So, I'm taking it setting on top is fine.

I'll have to think about the self-draining. I've thought about going black border then silver/gray border around the black and then maybe black/red checkerboard inside of that. Might divide the garage in two with the black/gray, so thinking maybe do the gray in drainage, that way any moisture isn't setting on top of the rest and can hit the concrete and disappear. I just hope that wouldn't cause any moisture/mold/mildew issues if it doesn't go away quickly.

Mold and mildew are a non-issue with polypropylene interlocking tiles. The air circulation and drainage under the tiles prevent it. It's a popular option for garage floors and basements with moisture issues.