standing 16' walls?

[2011laramie]

Im currently doing some research on the building techniques for when I start my build in a few months when the weather warms up. I currently have the footing and frost walls poured and backfilled for my 44x64 shop. I am pretty well accepting that I will be doing the majority of the work myself or with limited help aside from the day we set trusses and sheet the roof.

So I'm curious how people stand 16' tall walls? I was planning on building them in 16-20ft long sections and sheeting the bottom row to keep it square. I have a 46hp tractor with a front end loader to help with some lifting.

 

[6t7gto]

Here's some youtube videos.

I can't imagine one person doing it by themself.

 

[59chief]

When I built my barn there was four of us and the back wall of the center section was the biggest at 30x16. We fully sheathed it first as those sheets get really heavy and awkward if you try to do it with the wall already standing. Use some plumbers tape (metal strapping with holes in it) to attach the bottom plate to the sill plate, this will keep the wall from skating off the sill. Get some beer and therefore friends to help you, and lift it up far enough to get some sawhorses under it about halfway on the first lift. Then gather your breath, hitch up the pants and go for it. Have your bracing and stakes ready so it will stay there once you get it up. The tractor will be handy but I think I would want at least a couple more pair of hands to help. We decided that the remaining walls on my barn needed to be done in 2 pieces each, it was much easier and way less dangerous. Good luck on your build!

 

[Jlbc212]

Instead of using plumber's metal strapping, use door hinges to secure the bottom plate of the wall to the sill. Lay the bottom plate of the wall on top of the sill. Place and screw in a couple of door hinges along the length of the wall plate by attaching one side of the hinge to the sill and the other side to the plate. Swing the wall plate so it is standing up vertically. Nail an end stud into the bottom plate and have a short piece of 2x ready to temporarily attach it perpendicular near the top of the end stud so that the short piece of 2x is holding the stud horizontal off the ground (or the floor - depending if you are building the wall inside or outside of the garage). Do the same thing at the other end of the wall. Now attach your top plate. You can now nail the rest of the wall studs between the bottom and top plates. The wall, still horizontal, will be ready to swing up into position. When I did this (my longest wall section was less than 10ft, but the principle is the same) I didn't nail any sheathing to the wall, but instead let in a metal corner brace. I live in a windy area and wanted as little as possible on the wall to catch the wind until I had the roof framed. It was easy to get the wall section square with it laying horizontal. You should be able to get the wall started up with your bucket loader. Get a friend or two to help raise it the rest of the way. You will only need their help for a very short period of time.

 

[JoeMopar]

Proctor Wall Jacks, have used them for years. Strong and very safe.

http://www.lynnladder.com/products/PROCTOR-WALL-JACK.html

 

[2011laramie]

i was thinking about getting something like this.

http://www.budgetforklift.com/skid-steer-truss-booms3.php

 

[404]

As JoeMopar says,

Wall jacks are the safe and easy answer. Several brands are available.

 

[404]

Better video

 

[TomB19]

So I'm curious how people stand 16' tall walls? I was planning on building them in 16-20ft long sections and sheeting the bottom row to keep it square. I have a 46hp tractor with a front end loader to help with some lifting.

I've never stood 16' walls but I've stood 9' walls using my skid steer and a set of forks. It made the job quite doable.

I assume your tractor will be rated for a lift of about 1500#. It's probably well sufficient. What is the maximum boom height? You're going to need to lift well above the center of gravity to keep it safe.

If you could fasten a 2x4 or 2x6 horizontally on the outside of the sheathing and lift from that, you'd probably be in pretty good shape but how are you going to get the wall positioned so you can hook under the lifting structure with your bucket?

Is your breaker bar removable? You might do better without the teeth.

Personally, I'd rather have a set of forks and have it configured so I could skewer right through the wall. It would probably be a lot safer.

 

[2011laramie]

ya those are petty slick.

 

[2011laramie]

i used the forks to stand these 10' tall walls. but it doesnt reach high enough for 16'

 

[rslaback]

If you are interested in buying a set of 3 wall jacks let me know.

 

[AMCguy]

My shop is 32'x32'. I built every inch of it by myself. Wall jacks came in very handy.

The stud walls are 12' standing on a 4' concrete wall. I built them in 16' sections, stood them up and joined them in the middle.

 

[BADSIX]

if you can lift a 10' wall with your tractor then just come down 6' or so and firmly nail a 2x6 across there. then lift from that just like lifting a 10' with 6' above .
Jay D.

 

[NUTTSGT]

if you can lift a 10' wall with your tractor then just come down 6' or so and firmly nail a 2x6 across there. then lift from that just like lifting a 10' with 6' above .
Jay D.

If I had a tractor with forks, this is what I'd do. I'd also be using 2x6s for the wall studs.

 

[BADSIX]

If I had a tractor with forks, this is what I'd do. I'd also be using 2x6s for the wall studs.

X2 on the 2x6 wall studs. I would also sheet the top 8'with it flat on the ground. then lift from the bottom of the sheeting, that way your not fully extended up with your tractor. this will give you some moving room.
Jay D.

 

[jack stand]

Do yourself a favor, just rent a telehandler (forklift), especially if your doing it mostly by yourself. With a little planning, you can build all the walls in a pile keeping things square. Leave some sheathing off the top of the wall for attachment of a sling. I had 3 guy's helping and still used a lift. 16' walls are not easy to lift from ANY point below the top plate, particularly if you sheath them. My building got a metal exterior so only had 2X6 wall grits horizontally. The wall's were built 16'x16'.

 

[wnstwolf]

I was able to use a lull that was on the site for the 14' walls and also a little with the excavator. When both those great tools left the site I did what others mention forks on the bucket of my tractor with a 2x6 at a mid point to make it workable.

If you are not lucky to have front end loader wall jacks are the next best/safe option.

 

[2011laramie]

i was thinking with one of these on the tractor i could lift 20' vertical. so i could sling off the top plate and lift it up into place.

 

[tommyp]

I know this is an old post but i built a boom like that for my tractor and hung my trusses and 14' tall walls. Worked like a charm.

 

[DougWil]

Years ago before equipment was readily available when I built a 50x80 building with 16' walls I cobbled together a boom for my 3/4 ton flatbed truck.
Fit right in the stake pockets, backed up to the top plates, chained on a spreader bar, hoisted it up with a chain hoist and backed right up to the anchor bolts.

Installed 20 ft sections at a time.

I used 2x4 steel tubing and then cut it up and made a trailer out of it when the shop was done.

 

[2011laramie]

ya we built one. used it to stand all the walls.

 

[Playwme]

Very nice. Got a build thread link, or failing that, some more pictures?

It's amazing what a little tractor can do with a bit of thought. Pretty sure Dad has the exact same model as you.