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Stanley Fatmax hacksaw failure

P

pendragon1998

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Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
3,733
Location
NE Georgia
I wanted to share this tool failure in case anyone else has one of these hacksaws. I have actually really enjoyed this saw and was expecting it to last a long time. It's a pleasure to use. Unfortunately, the tightening lever pivots on two pins that are cast (diecast) integral to two ears of metal, and they both failed on me. I left the saw hanging with the blade tensioned very tight (as I typically have done) and apparently, the metal was fatigued enough to break both pins off. When I took it down, both pins just dropped out. If you have one of these saws, you might want to be aware of this.

I'm not certain there's a way to avoid this problem, as keeping the saw loose when you aren't using it doesn't seem like it would help. You'd just fatigue the pins when you tightened it for use. I don't believe this saw has any parts available, but I haven't checked. It's a discontinued, made in the USA model.

I will say again that I've been very happy with the saw until today. I'm really bummed my saw broke. I may still look out for another one of this model. Anyway, thought some of you might be interested.

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P

pendragon1998

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Mar 24, 2012
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Location
NE Georgia
I thought about that, but there's a piece that goes between the ears that would interfere with a through-pin. Possibly, drilling and threading the ear, then inserting a threaded fastener might work, but the pivot point provided by the pins experiences a great deal of force (hence the failure) and I'm not sure it would hold up.
 
T

tdellenburg

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Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
98
Location
Anderson, SC
I've had the same Lennox hacksaw for 15 years (would be 25 had my original not been "borrowed"). Hard to beat them for any cutting tools. I highly recommend.
 
J

jd_1138

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Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
17,047
Location
NE Ohio
***** about the hacksaw. I love my Fat Max cat's paw/nail puller/wrecker. I helped a friend rip put some old carpet to lay down laminate, and it made quick work ripping nails out. It's scratched up and beat to hell, but it's paid for itself 20 times over.

61aojjjgiBL._SX355_.jpg
 
P

PFSard

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Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Messages
2,423
Location
Mesa, AZ
Just out of curiosity, what's the warranty on this particular item? And the original cost? I've never broken a hacksaw in 40+ years of using them.
 
S

southalabama

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Joined
Jan 10, 2011
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5,534
Location
Brewton AL
Go buy a Lennox is the easy answer but this is garagejournal so a new milling machine maybe in order to custom fabricate a part.
 
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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,725
Location
SE Michigan
I'm trying to picture how it all fits together. I'd drill & ream for a slip fit (a +0.001" oversize reamer) into the aluminum arm thru the broken stud. Make new pins out of W-1 drill rod (not needed to harden). Weld one end or silver braze to a thin piece of steel, I'm just thinking 16ga sheet here. The idea is to make a "double support" for the pin so its not totally cantilevered out of the aluminum. May need to "Z" bend the steel. Couple of small #4-#5 screws tapped into new holes in the Al handle, to hold the steel part, back towards the black plastic handle. Will have a "left" and a "right" when finished.

Not 100% sure this idea is viable without holding it in my hands but this is the way I would approach fixing the tool.

The other possibility as mentioned above is to gin up a new cam-handle out of steel, then the pins can be silver brazed into position. I don't think all of the complex detail needs to be there, its just a stiffener for the die-cast part, the steel would be stronger and not need as much support. Ideally you could remove the same handle and attach it with a couple of small flat-head screws...

Just talking ideas :)
 
Last edited:
I

IUEC Medic

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Joined
Mar 29, 2014
Messages
175
Location
East Bay Area
matt_i said:
I'm trying to picture how it all fits together. I'd drill & ream for a slip fit (a +0.001" oversize reamer) into the aluminum arm thru the broken stud. Make new pins out of W-1 drill rod (not needed to harden). Weld one end or silver braze to a thin piece of steel, I'm just thinking 16ga sheet here. The idea is to make a "double support" for the pin so its not totally cantilevered out of the aluminum. May need to "Z" bend the steel. Couple of small #4-#5 screws tapped into new holes in the Al handle, to hold the steel part, back towards the black plastic handle. Will have a "left" and a "right" when finished.

Not 100% sure this idea is viable without holding it in my hands but this is the way I would approach fixing the tool.

The other possibility as mentioned above is to gin up a new cam-handle out of steel, then the pins can be silver brazed into position. I don't think all of the complex detail needs to be there, its just a stiffener for the die-cast part, the steel would be stronger and not need as much support. Ideally you could remove the same handle and attach it with a couple of small flat-head screws...

Just talking ideas :)
Click to expand...


C'mon man. Talking about brazing and welding drill rod and making all these modifications... The material alone to do all that would cost more than the dang hack saw ever did.

My time is worth way more than that, either try to return it to the point of purchase or Stanley, because that's a clear manufacturing defect, or toss it in the trash and spend $20 on a Lennox.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...ds=hacksaw&dpPl=1&dpID=41c4wF17KLL&ref=plSrch
 
T

Todd.Brock

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Messages
4,250
Location
Cincinnati
I don't know who makes the snap on hack saw, but I got one when I bought a group of tools. Man I love that thing. After a lifetime of cheap hack saws , I didn't know what i was missing. That Stanley looks like it was a nice to use!
 
4

4Kings

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
263
Location
Southwest Missouri
I believe that the Lennox frame is made in China now. My buddy has one and I seem to recall seeing that. The blades are still US though.

I have a Klein 701 that isn't fancy looking but it's a beast.
 
R

Roberts210

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2015
Messages
3,177
Location
Missouri
Good Lord, what cheap construction on that thing. Knowing where it was made you'd think they have spent 2 more Yuan (US 30 cents) to build the thing right.
 
B

Bellaireroad

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 22, 2013
Messages
636
Location
Fort Worth
matt_i said:
I'm trying to picture how it all fits together. I'd drill & ream for a slip fit (a +0.001" oversize reamer) into the aluminum arm thru the broken stud. Make new pins out of W-1 drill rod (not needed to harden). Weld one end or silver braze to a thin piece of steel, I'm just thinking 16ga sheet here. The idea is to make a "double support" for the pin so its not totally cantilevered out of the aluminum. May need to "Z" bend the steel. Couple of small #4-#5 screws tapped into new holes in the Al handle, to hold the steel part, back towards the black plastic handle. Will have a "left" and a "right" when finished.

Not 100% sure this idea is viable without holding it in my hands but this is the way I would approach fixing the tool.

The other possibility as mentioned above is to gin up a new cam-handle out of steel, then the pins can be silver brazed into position. I don't think all of the complex detail needs to be there, its just a stiffener for the die-cast part, the steel would be stronger and not need as much support. Ideally you could remove the same handle and attach it with a couple of small flat-head screws...

Just talking ideas :)
Click to expand...



No... no....no.....machine the handle out of depleted uranium, it will never break[emoji1303][emoji1303]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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