Stapling OSB

[mod600]

I'm in the middle of my shed/shop build. Working adding nailers for future cabinets/shelves/etc right now. I'm planning on sheeting the interior walls of the shop portion with 1/2" OSB and then painting it. My Dad used 8d galvanized nails when he did his. Said then you won't have to worry about the nails rusting and bleeding thru the paint. I was originally planning on doing the same, but my father inlaw informed me that I can borrow his air nailers. One is a stapler and is what one of his workers said I'd want to use to put the OSB up. I've never heard of using a stapler on OSB before. Has anyone else done this? New to me...thougth I'd check before I started.
Thanks!

 

[glazier]

Their used on roof applications with OSB a lot of the time. You would see the staple even painted more than a nail. I would nail it.

 

[Gary S]

Staples work, nails work, but galvanized construction screws are my choice. Being galvanized, they will resist rust as long as anything else, and they also give you the option to pull a sheet or two in the future if you need to run additional wiring or plumbing.

 

[rlev11]

I would use deck screws. It will be a lot easier to take down a panel to run something inside the wall in the future. The screws will show but its a shed/shop after all, not the master bath

 

[joshuaz223]

use galvanized or stainless staples. but be warned once up you will destroy the OSB getting it off. it is very strong and resists pull out better than nails or screws.

 

[Bib Overalls]

I like the deck screws that Lowe's Sells. They have a Torex drive and a guaranteed Rust Oleum finished. They go in easy and hold like a python. I use them for OSB panels that may need to come down in the future to access plumbing, etc. About $10 for 1 pound, $30 for 5 pounds.

For OSB panels that do not need to come down I use Grip Rite 8d 2 1/2" exterior galvanized S/T patio and deck nails. Lowe's also sell a similar hard board siding nail with a slightly smaller head. The wall behind the lathe is 7/16" OSB with this finish treatment. The dark grey band that separates the white upper and light gray lower pannels is 1/4" luan plywood ripped 4" wide and painted on the bench. OSB and masking tape to not work well together.

OSB really ***** up the paint. I start with two coats of Kilz oil based primer followed by one or two coats of latex finish.


Colchester Student Lathe 1 by Bib Overalls, on Flickr

 

[demographic]

I've used coil nailers for sheeting with OSB while making timber frame panels.
I must have used thousands of 50mm ringshank nails per day on 320 nail coils.

That was in Paslode duofast coil nailers on airlines. Good piece of kit.
Could set them up to bump fire so you just bounced them along the OSB towards myself nailing on each bounce.

Be careful to let go of the trigger when a line is finished cos although its not that big a deal working on a massive bench as I was, one of the other lads shot a workmate in the head while he was nailing siding on a transportable lodge up a step ladder and the bloke walked past after he had completed a line.
Holding the trigger on and the nose of the gun touched the other blokes head.

Quick trip to casualty and he was OK bit its could have easily have killed him instead.

 

[Falcon67]

If you'd like the panels accessible, use deck screws. If you want them to be take the wall studs with them when the tornado comes through, then use 8D ring shank nails sunk to where they just dimple the surface. Galvanized if you like. You'll never get them out. I use 6D galvanized ring shank for putting up fence pickets. You have to bust the boards off the stringers and cut the heads off the nails to make modifications.

 

[Highbeam]

I helped sheet a house using 7/16 osb and the staples. The little strips of staples contain a LOT of staples so you could be generous. We had no intention of removing the sheets and they are still up. In use, they offered no benefits or drawbacks compared to regular 8d nails. I didn't have to buy the gun or the staples so I can't say how the cost differed.

So yes, it is done and the staples work.

 

[premierplayer]

for OSB
broad crown staples = yes
narrow crown staples = no

 

[Buford T. Justice]

Yes, I stapled my entire three stall, walls and ceilings. Holding just fine going on three years.

 

[oilslick]

I used 1/2" crown staples 2" long on my 1/2 and 7/16 sheeting. I liked it better than a framer with 8d nails. Seems to not go too deep like the nails can, just my experience could be I run my framer to high on pressure!

 

[mikec35]

you could try this composite siding, $16.50 at home depot

 

[demographic]

If you'd like the panels accessible, use deck screws. If you want them to be take the wall studs with them when the tornado comes through, then use 8D ring shank nails sunk to where they just dimple the surface. Galvanized if you like. You'll never get them out. I use 6D galvanized ring shank for putting up fence pickets. You have to bust the boards off the stringers and cut the heads off the nails to make modifications.

Or use a punch to punch the heads in further till you can remove the OSB, we do that to modify timber frame panels and that way you don't destroy the sheet of OSB.

 

[Bender78]

I stapled my interior OSB in my shop. It worked fine.

 

[ThePress]

We use a 1/2" crown stapler all the time at work for all the sob we install. The wood holds on stronger with staples than nails. Also, as we do lots of framing, the staples save quite a bit in fastener costs.

 

[mod600]

Thanks for all the info and replies. I'm a little ways out before I get to that. But I'll have to do some thinking. I have a few areas that I will screw then on incase I ever need to remove a panel to change anything. I plan to paint it afterward, it doesn't need to be perfect, it is a shop, but I'd like to make some attempt to make it look somewhat decent. Thanks!