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Start all 710

Ggg

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I’m the new owner of an engine driven Goodall Start-all 710. I have googled and searched the youtubes for info on this unit but have found precious little on them, especially the 710 start-all unit. Even Ebay doesn’t have any manuals. I would like to know the proper way of operating it, and specs like voltage and amperage output. The engine runs great after cleaning the old gas out of it. The output is 12v, I feel this should be higher, maybe I’m wrong. The jump start cables are there but there’s another large single Cable that was cut off. Also there’s an old school “dimmer switch” on it that I’m unsure of its function. The engine has a standard recoil start, now it starts on no more than 2 pulls without any starting fluid.
Thanks for any help.
 
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Ggg

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Does the above link help you? Is yours a Goodall Start-all?
Yes it is, I edited my post to include that.
The link works, I found a picture of a manual, clicked on that website and it goes to some restaurant, and has nothing to do with the manual in the click bait pic.
There’s quite a few schematic images but none for the 710 model. I think another model number close to mine should suffice.
 
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AA/FC

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I ran one of those on an old tow truck back in the early 1990's. (the truck was from the mid 1980's) I remember the "dimmer" switch..... If you held that "dimmer" switch down, and simultaneously pulled the rope start one time, somehow the rotation of the engine made electricity to keep the engine starter spinning even after one pull of the rope. I'm not sure if this was some early attempt at using perpetual energy, or if there was also wires running to the battery to power the starter.... I'm not sure, my memory is foggy, this was over 30 years ago..... But I DO remember the dimmer switch helped with starting the engine, I'm just not sure how it worked. If your jump start unit doesn't have a pull rope, then the "dimmer" switch is probably just the electric start button.
 

larry_g

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The link post two led me to the site above. The models have diagrams in the links and clicking on the 610 model it shows an old and new diagram. Maybe something you can leverage into your 710? Or contact them to see if they have info on your 710..
 
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cycle61

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I ran one of those on an old tow truck back in the early 1990's. (the truck was from the mid 1980's) I remember the "dimmer" switch..... If you held that "dimmer" switch down, and simultaneously pulled the rope start one time, somehow the rotation of the engine made electricity to keep the engine starter spinning even after one pull of the rope. I'm not sure if this was some early attempt at using perpetual energy, or if there was also wires running to the battery to power the starter.... I'm not sure, my memory is foggy, this was over 30 years ago..... But I DO remember the dimmer switch helped with starting the engine, I'm just not sure how it worked. If your jump start unit doesn't have a pull rope, then the "dimmer" switch is probably just the electric start button.
As a wild guess, I’ll bet the dimmer switch reduces the output of the unit by either shorting the field wiring or some other means, making less magnetic resistance to the engine spinning, which would definitely make it easier to pull start.
 

AA/FC

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As a wild guess, I’ll bet the dimmer switch reduces the output of the unit by either shorting the field wiring or some other means, making less magnetic resistance to the engine spinning, which would definitely make it easier to pull start.
Not sure.... I just remember pushing the button and pulling the rope..... When the engine started, I would let go of the button. The engine would crank indefinitely until I let the button go. (or the engine started)
 
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Ggg

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What should the voltage output be? I’m reading 11.8-12v I realize this is not intended to charge a battery, but it seems higher voltage say 14v would help the starter spin a little faster aiding in startup.

Looking at a schematic for a model 708KVC the cable I mentioned that is cut off goes from battery positive to that “dimmer switch”, then to the output posts of both generators.
 
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AA/FC

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Huh. Perpetual motion then.
I already explained that it's been 30+ years and I don't remember exactly how it worked. Maybe the engine on the jump starter had normal electric start, powered by the engine battery in the tow truck.... but the starter motor was weak so it needed a short pull from a human to get the starter motor to initially spin. Again, I don't know....
 

AA/FC

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What should the voltage output be? I’m reading 11.8-12v I realize this is not intended to charge a battery, but it seems higher voltage say 14v would help the starter spin a little faster aiding in startup.

Looking at a schematic for a model 708KVC the cable I mentioned that is cut off goes from battery positive to that “dimmer switch”, then to the output posts of both generators.
Not sure. I never put a volt meter on the output of the jump starter unit. I do remember it worked really well, spinning over those old carbureted car engines from the 70's and 80's, even on really cold below zero mornings.

To me, 12 volts should be enough. Yes, I agree that 13.5 - 14 volts would initially seem better.... However, as the voltage goes up, amperage goes down, and we both know amperage is king when trying to turn over cold engines with thick oil. I realize we're only talking about 1-2 volts so how much difference could it make in amperage output? Probably not much but if we knew the total wattage output of the jump start unit we could calculate the difference. Either way, more amperage is ALWAYS better when jump starting an engine... In my book anyway. Also, 12 volts really doesn't seem low when you consider that's all the voltage an engine starter normally sees while starting an engine because that's what car batteries normally put out.

Lower voltage results in higher amperage. (and visa versa)

It's the same principal of getting 200amps of output from a welder while only plugged into a 50amp receptacle. When you lower the voltage, the amperage goes up. The welder is internally lowering the voltage as you crank up the amperage. (and visa versa)

Put those clamps on a dead car and give it a try. I'm betting it works pretty good.

Don't take anything I say as fact.... I'm just speculating out loud.
 
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larry_g

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WRT the voltage, remember this is a jump starter and not a battery charger. Have you measured the voltage applied to a starter from a battery in a good operating vehicle when the starter is engaged? Typically less than 12 volts or so. Measure the output of your unit while it is under load to see what it does.

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