Started Garage Project On Sat, need advice.

[slickgt1]

Garage Renovation Progress

Hi All,
I have been trolling here for quite some time, looking for ideas. I just started working on my garage. I need some advice, but first some background.

My house if sully attached, garage being under the first floor apartment.

It is 20 X 25 space.

I have metal roofing material on the ceiling in the garage. I started to take it down on Saturday. I also have sheetrock above the metal, which has to come down as well. I need to do this so that I can put insulation between the joists. I plan on using R23 Roxul (rockwool insulation). I also need to wire up the garage, as I currently have one outlet, one light bulb, and garage motor.

Now once those projects are complete. I need to close the joists back up. Here is where I need advice. I was thinking about two options here.

1. I was planning on putting hardiboard glued and screwed to the joists. I was thinking 1/4". Then cover that in fireproof sheetrock. The reason for the hardi, then sheetrock is if I have to hang something down the line, and if I miss the joist, I will at least have something decent to anchor to. Maybe overkill. I also get more moisture resistance, and more fireproofing this way. The tenant's living room is right above it.

OR

2. Just install fireproof 5/8" sheetrock and call it a day. This is much cheaper and easier. But is it good enough?

I have some pics on my phone which I will post up soon. Nothing interesting yet, just demo.

Thanks all in advance.

 

[creativecars]

The hardiboard is not that much stronger (as far as pulling through) than the sheetrock. Yes, more moisture residtance and fireproofing, but trying to screw into it without hitting a stud will not hold much and would be unsafe overhead. If you know you want to hang something go ahead and put in some blocking while you have the rock down. The 5/8 fire rated will be great. There are some specific codes for having a garage area below a living space, you may want to check into this.

 

[bazzateer]

Just install fireproof 5/8" sheetrock and call it a day. This is much cheaper and easier. But is it good enough?

Your local building codes should tell you what's required.

 

[slickgt1]

My code requires double 1/2" (1" cross staggered) regular drywall, or single 5/8" fire-rated drywall.

As far as hanging stuff, yea, I am planning on blocking on a lot of places, I was saying just in-case, for future.

Currently there is drywall, 1/2" not fire-proof, with metal over it.

I was just thinking, if I put hardi under the drywall, if for some reason I need to run wires or something later on, I will have a hard time cutting any sort of access hole.

I think I will just go with fireproof, and if I do need to hang something, I can probably find the joist, or worst case, just open up the drywall and put blocking in. Yea fixing a little patch (maybe if necessary) is easier than option 1.

 

[slickgt1]

By the way. Bought this for the metal removal. So glad I got it. I have plumbing all over the place on the ceiling, and was hesitant to use the sawsal or grinder to cut it all up. Metal was obviously installed before the plumbing / electrical was done.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002894R0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[drmoonshine]

If you can get away with it do it.

 

[slickgt1]

Get away with what? I know i need 3/4 hour burn protection. I know fire proof drywall at 5/8 is that, and roxul insulation is fire proof as well. I am not sure what you mean by "if i can get away with it". I'm reading something wrong maybe.

 

[gtivr4]

Personally I would just do 5/8 drywall and add blocking at set heights in the wall (maybe cabinet hanging height and knee height. That and a studfinder will allow you to hang anything you need.

 

[slickgt1]

I'm only going to drywall the ceiling. My walls are cement block inside, and brick outside. I'm not sure what I want to laminate the walls with.

 

[slickgt1]

********, I have to say. Removing all that metal from ceiling was no joke. Thank god I had the snips, link above. Sooooooooooooooooooooo, much friggen dust, I was going through 3 mask filters every 4 hours.

Sheetrock is 3/4 off now as well. Was 1/2" sheetrock, with 2" of dirt above it. I have more bags with just dirt, than with sheetrock. Everything is covered in 1/4" of dust. I will have pics up shortly. I didn't want to take out my phone while the dust was floating around

Got the Roxul insulation. Put about 3/5ths of it up. Gotta say the garage feels a lot more sound insulated. Gives me the feeling I'm in a recording studio. Wife noticed the same thing, and said the same thing. Love this insulation. My personal review.
1. It does not itch. Yea no itching. The fiberglass stuff you would itch for 2 days.
2. Cuts like magic with a regular $17, 14" aerated bread knife. I mean cuts nice. I can literally cut slices out of it.
3. Fire proof till some ridiculous temp.
4. Water resistant, basically does not absorb.
5. High sound insulation.
6. No need for fasteners, designed to self hold in wood beams/joists.
Negative is that it costs more than the regular stuff. I payed $29 per 40sq ft R23. But with all the positives, I will never go back to the regular fiberglass.


Just bought Porcelain tile at Lowes. 12 x 12 PEI 5, at 0.96c per sq/ft. Dope deal I think. 470sq ft. Almost broke my back loading it and unloading it.

I think I will start the mud-job on Wednesday to get my pitch in order. Right now the cement in good shape, but the spot where the car sits seems to be the high ground. All the water that drains off the car goes around the whole garage.

Going to do the electrical stuff at the same time too. Mostly when my knees and back feel the pain from tiling.

I'll try to get the pics up tomorrow.

 

[little d]

not only did you make the right choice for your family, if you do have a (god forbid) oops and the adjuster with his pen and paper is trying to figure out how he can wiggle out of it, you can stand back and smile.

 

[slickgt1]

Lol yea, thanks. Pics coming up shortly.

 

[csp]

Hardiboard will not hold a screw well. If you want a backer for "just in case" use something like OSB or plywood. It's a lot cheaper than Hardiboard too.

 

[slickgt1]

So the Pics. I will get some daylight ones as soon as I can. It is just too cold right now to open it up and feeze my *** off.

This is with some metal removed.

Note the Nasty Sheetrock, and the amount of protrusions coming from the ceiling. Now imagine how great it was to remove the metal around all that.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_QNfKvhLbojE/TUBCOE2mY2I/AAAAAAAAA_w/MHNsyTav-HE/s640/IMG_0953.jpg

The damn metal. This is only 1/5 of the metal that was on the ceiling.

All metal gone, most of the insulation in.

Roxul Insulation closup.

****-ton of tiles sitting inside.

Read it PEI 5, at Lowes, @ $0.96 sq-ft. Yea. I cannot find this online. Just go to store.

The white cases is PEI 4, Black, and $1.12 per sq-ft

 

[slickgt1]

Hardiboard will not hold a screw well. If you want a backer for "just in case" use something like OSB or plywood. It's a lot cheaper than Hardiboard too.

Yea that is what I am doing. I am making blocking from OSB everywhere I think I might need it. I also have a ton of 12x2 laying around, so cutting that up and strategically placing that where I think I might need it.

But honestly after thinking about it, once all is layed out, I might not ever need it. Plus my Joists are 12" on center. So there is a lot I can screw into them without the blocking.

 

[slickgt1]

So, more work done. Did the rough electrical for the lights, insulation is done. Started the floor.

Blue tape is center of garage. Yes that is concrete that the tile guys is laying under the tile to level out my workbench / shelf areas, and correcting the pitch where the car is. Currently, if my car goes into the garage wet, my floor is wet everywhere around the car, but dry as a whistle under the car. Yay, no more lakes under my shelves.

Epoxy grouted this section yesterday. Need to finish certain areas so that I can put the table and other **** on here to clear up space everywhere.