Started interior walls

[rjprice]

Been analyzing the interior wall thing to death. I finally decided to go with 3/4 T&G plywood. Chose to Tapcon the base angle rather than drive anchors. I'm doing it by myself so it's going slow.

 

[readhead]

Looks good. For others contemplating something similar you should order the building with a base girt instead of base angle.

 

[Hollywood D]

Cutting around the receptacle and switch boxes is the worst.

 

[thehighwayman]

Cutting around the receptacle and switch boxes is the worst.

I’m lucky if I make them look halfway decent with a jigsaw, but I see people that can cut them in with an old skil 77 in 5 seconds and fit perfectly. I don’t understand

 

[seanc_mt]

Maybe 30 seconds each with jigsaw...

20181121_104552 by Sean Connell, on Flickr

20181121_104600 by Sean Connell, on Flickr

 

[rjprice]

Wow, 30 seconds. I'm so slow cuz I afraid to cut the hole in the wrong place in a $35 sheet of plywood. I'm getting the hang of it, though.

I keep telling myself "It's just a barn"....

 

[aalleexx]

Hey rjprice,
Just finished painting my walls. Did the same setup as you except cut the tops of my 3/4 ply even with the 7'9" girt. Hope to add mezzanine at later date and only have 12' walls with 4/12 pitch.

 

[rjprice]

aalleexx, what color did you paint? Oil or latex? Spray or roll?

I let mine run long so I could hide Comm wiring and Air piping behind it. I also noticed my girts had some variation so I figured it would save some labor letting it stay 8 foot.

 

[Hollywood D]

Wow, 30 seconds. I'm so slow cuz I afraid to cut the hole in the wrong place in a $35 sheet of plywood. I'm getting the hang of it, though.

I keep telling myself "It's just a barn"....

I was the same way. I did T1-11 siding in my garage and left it bare wood. I quadruple measured everyone before I made a cut. They all came out fine but it was very time consuming.

 

[aalleexx]

Sorry for the late reply. Painted African Grey from Sherman Williams. It's a latex based. Put down a grey tinted latex primer first. Used the Harbor Freight airless sprayer for both. First time using airless sprayer. 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of finish spray. Real easy and quick to use.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Which HF Airless? Have a link? Recommended or nah....?

 

[aalleexx]

https://www.harborfreight.com/airless-paint-sprayer-kit-60600.html

 

[ShakeyPuddin55]

I just installed half the base angle in my shop as well. Going to be doing about 180 foot of wall up the the second girt then adding a shelf. I also want the 3/4 T&G that I can paint. AC sanded plywood is about $51 a sheet here. Did you go with A grade? What kind of price did you get per sheet.

 

[rjprice]

Mine was b/c for $32/sheet.

I have 25 outlets in my 40x50 shop so I'm cutting lots of holes. I am basically copying the Chet Wilkins youtube video minus the top shelf. Gonna paint with a roller.

 

[ShakeyPuddin55]

Chet Wilkins actually built my shop.
I'm probably going to go with AC plywood.
I think I will just let the wood sit on the floor and not use the gap that Chet recommended. Just a family hobby shop so I'm not too worried about spills

 

[aalleexx]

I left about 1/2" to 3/4" gap at he bottom of mine, then used 4" pvc base trim from Home Depot to the floor. I plan on using a hose at times to clean my floor.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...e-Trimplank-S4S-Moulding-0731808003/203822134

 

[BentBierz]

Been analyzing the interior wall thing to death. I finally decided to go with 3/4 T&G plywood. Chose to Tapcon the base angle rather than drive anchors. I'm doing it by myself so it's going slow.

Hello...I am going to do something similar to what you did in your building. I have a newer building that we built several years ago and in there I decided to stud it out for walls...the building is a partial garden shop for my wife and man cave for me. Especially in the man cave, I wanted to put up different walls (our projector wall is drywall, other walls are planked, etc.) so that is why I studded it out.

My older 30' x 50' building has been primarily used for storage. As I am typing this we have a spray foam contractor finishing up putting a thermal barrier on the foam and in the next several weeks I will begin putting up walls for what will eventually be a hobby wood/machine shop.

I am thinking of going straight to the framing with 3/4" T&G instead of studding out. I am wondering why instead of a base angle I couldn't use PT lumber with sinkers as a nailing board for the bottom of the plywood. i realize that steel would outlive what I have left on this earth but PT probably would also, especially if I paint it. Thanks for any advice.

BTW...what did you use as fasteners for attaching your boards? When I studded out my newer building I used these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-12...-Self-Drilling-Screws-40-Pack-21384/100145370 with varying levels of success. Sometimes they worked fine, other times they would not drill and drive properly.

 

[rayra]

I left about 1/2" to 3/4" gap at he bottom of mine, then used 4" pvc base trim from Home Depot to the floor. I plan on using a hose at times to clean my floor.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...e-Trimplank-S4S-Moulding-0731808003/203822134

This is the best idea. You do not want the sheets in contact with the floor. They will wick up whatever moisture they can get, even thru the slab if there's no other moisture barriers in play. Even a 1/8" thick paint stirring stick as a shim is enough of a gap. Just don't rest them on the floor. Floor's not level, anyway, right? Right??