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Started my new floor (armor clad)

jake75

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Today i started the prep on my new project, a three car garage with armor clad epoxy and top top (still need to place my order!) I rented the edco 10" grinder from home depot rather than etching the concrete. Anyways here is a few pics from start to finish. When i started grinding i noticed all the dust was just coming out of the vacuum (didn't have the filter in) so i ended up disconnecting the vacuum ans sweeping up the dust. After a few passes over the floor and sweeping up the dust and going back to spot grind i figured out the squeegee was MUCH better with collecting dust and it really sped up the process. Being that i have not ordered my kit i went ahead and washed down the floor with water. There are a few spots i need to grind still but should be able to get them by hand. I will order my kit Monday. I'm wanting a dark grey base with black, white and battleship grey fleck. Also doing the primer and top coat







 
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idleclamp

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It looks like you made some repairs to a crack or two. What did you use? How big were the cracks?
 
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jake75

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It looks like you made some repairs to a crack or two. What did you use? How big were the cracks?
I repaired the cracks and dimples with a rustoleum 2 part repair epoxy. Seemed to work good. Got it off Amazon.

Good Job! Looking forward to your progress.
thank you I'll be updating pics when the next step comes!

You've got the hard part done. Nice job on the prep.

:thumbup:
Thank you it wasn't
as easy as I thought it would be the dust covers alot of spots that I missed or didn't grind well enough
 
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jake75

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Here is a pic from this morning. Still got some spots I need to touch up with the grinder.
 
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jake75

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got a few questions for application of the different coats. I ordered the primer as well as the military top coat. What is the best way to apply the different coats of the kit? Should i roll on everything or use a squeegee to spread everything out?

After the prep and wash down there are a few pits in the concrete that were not there before, will i be okay rolling the primer and using the 100% solid epoxy to fill the pitting?

Thanks guys im looking forward to getting this done
 

Nooobtooob

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I have done a few floors using sealcrete and every time I further the process of preping. That desurfacer looks like it did such a good job. They don't have any of those to rent in my city. I used a Diambrush, which did ok but didn't remove material like your unit. Back to your question, I have successfully filled holes where concrete has chipped out. Minor holes. From the info I found on manufacturing specs, if you have a higher solids% in your epoxy, it will cure with less "shrinking". Although I think it's pretty minimal.
 

Nooobtooob

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Disregard this if you know more than I do, which is probably the case :), but if you are using a 2 part water base epoxy you shouldn't need a primer. I've been told it actually impairs the integrity of the job. The epoxy wants to fill/fit into all the "pores" created by your de-surfacing and if you primer it, it will unecssarily fill the pores to a point. Some one please correct me if I am wrong.
Cheers
 
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jake75

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I got my order today. I will start cutting in the edges with primer and possibly lay the primer coat tomorrow!
 

sbd4de3

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Good luck brother! Hope it comes out to your expectations, don't forget to post the pics when you're done! :)
 
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jake75

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I will be doing the epoxy part tomorrow. After the primer dried i could see a few roller marks where I rolled it on. Hopefully it doesn't effect the final finish
 

Armorpoxy

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It's totally normal to have an uneven finish with primer. Once the epoxy gets applied you should see outstanding results.


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jake75

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It's totally normal to have an uneven finish with primer. Once the epoxy gets applied you should see outstanding results.


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Thanks for the reply. What is the best way to apply the epoxy and fleck? Squeegee? Roller? For the fleck I plan on just tossing it up in the air and letting it fall
 

Shea

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The easiest for most people is to pour the epoxy out in thin ribbons on the floor and then roll it out from there.

Be sure to toss your flakes high. This will create a much better dispersal. Don't use handfuls, just take large pinches in your fingers.
 
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jake75

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The easiest for most people is to pour the epoxy out in thin ribbons on the floor and then roll it out from there.

Be sure to toss your flakes high. This will create a much better dispersal. Don't use handfuls, just take large pinches in your fingers.

Thin ribbons straight from the mixing bucket and spread with a roller?
 

Shea

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Yes. 100% solids requires pouring it out of the bucket right after mixing. If it's less than 100% solids there may be an induction time. After that time is up however, you still will need to pour it out onto the floor. If you don't, it will heat up and get hot in the bucket within minutes.
 

Armorpoxy

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We have an online video about installation, and the printed instructions also give a lot of good info. Shea is correct, get it out of the bucket and onto the floor. Mix up smaller batches at the 2:1 ratio until you get comfortable with it. This time of year we doubt you would have a problem unless you mixed up the entire 3 gal batch at a time (NOT recommended).

Squeegee it to spread it around, backroll it so smooth it out, apply flecks.
 
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jake75

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well i started the epoxy/fleck today didnt finish because i ran out of fleck (i was putting it heavy) i have about 50 sq ft left to do. Hopefully i dont have to buy 5 lbs of fleck to get what i need. anyway here are a few pics. I wont be doing the clear coat until i get more fleck to complete the job.


 

Armorpoxy

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Looks great! Give us a call and we will send a lb n/c if you just pay for the FedEx Ground fee.

To other readers it's a good idea to weigh out the flecks say into quarters by weight or kind of eyeball into four containers, and then use each quarter on a quarter of the garage so you can see if you are going to fast or too light on usage...
 

Shea

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To other readers it's a good idea to weigh out the flecks say into quarters by weight or kind of eyeball into four containers, and then use each quarter on a quarter of the garage so you can see if you are going to fast or too light on usage...

Yep - this is a great tip.

Good job on the application. It looks good!
 
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jake75

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Looks great! Give us a call and we will send a lb n/c if you just pay for the FedEx Ground fee.

To other readers it's a good idea to weigh out the flecks say into quarters by weight or kind of eyeball into four containers, and then use each quarter on a quarter of the garage so you can see if you are going to fast or too light on usage...

Thank you. I'll call tomorrow I called today but the office was closed. If I can get 3 lbs I'll pay accordingly I have a few touch up spots I want to get.
 

Radical540

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well i started the epoxy/fleck today didnt finish because i ran out of fleck (i was putting it heavy) i have about 50 sq ft left to do. Hopefully i dont have to buy 5 lbs of fleck to get what i need. anyway here are a few pics. I wont be doing the clear coat until i get more fleck to complete the job.


Looks great....one caveat someone pointed out to me though.....
If you ever drop a small screw, nut, washer, etc. with certain color combinations it could be a nightmare to find!!!
 

Armorpoxy

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Hi
Just to clarify we offer a wide variety of coatings, 100% solids, solvent type, water based, and hybrids. Unless we know which coating is being referred to we can verify which product family it belongs to.
 

Radical540

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We have an online video about installation, and the printed instructions also give a lot of good info. Shea is correct, get it out of the bucket and onto the floor. Mix up smaller batches at the 2:1 ratio until you get comfortable with it. This time of year we doubt you would have a problem unless you mixed up the entire 3 gal batch at a time (NOT recommended).

Squeegee it to spread it around, backroll it so smooth it out, apply flecks.
When you say "this time of year" do you mean because of the ambient temperature?
I just ordered my Armor-Clad kit this week. We just got our first "snow" today, and the outside temperatures are upper 30's. Fortunately, my garage is heated. What should the slab temperature be, before I start this undertaking?

Thanks! :3gears:
 

Armorpoxy

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Yes, we are referring to ambient temperature. As long as the space in the garage is kept about 50-ish you should be fine. Warmer is better for curing if you can get it to 60-70. Slab temp should not be lower than 50. Thanks!
 

Radical540

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I can easily get the garage space (air space and contents) to 70+ degrees.
Getting a 300 sq./ft section of concrete to 50 shouldn't be that hard right now....
However, I'll be flirting with winter temps very soon.
What are the caveats if its not? Long curing times? (which is ok with me, I'm not using that section anyway)
 

Armorpoxy

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If it too cold it may not ever cure. Please keep temps above 50.


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jake75

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I got my fleck in yesterday. Planning on finishing the flecking tuesday and clear coat late weds
 

SunsetsAndFriends

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im using the 2 part top coat. I believe that has the non skid in it.

I like your floor. Very nice job! How many pounds of flake did you use? How big is your garage?

A friendly reminder, the clear coat usually doesn't come with the non-skid in it. Usually, it's something that the installer adds to the clear coat or broadcasts onto the the wet clear coat after it's installed.
 
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