To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Started my new floor (armor clad)

OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
I like your floor. Very nice job! How many pounds of flake did you use? How big is your garage?

A friendly reminder, the clear coat usually doesn't come with the non-skid in it. Usually, it's something that the installer adds to the clear coat or broadcasts onto the the wet clear coat after it's installed.

Thank you. I believe they sent a 5lb bag of flake....i just got 3 more lbs to finish and touch up a few spots. I have a 3 car garage its right around 550 sq ft.

I was told the 2 part coat had the additive in it hopefully they can confirm that for me
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

djones5548

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
9
Just curious, I'm assuming you primed and just used one kit for your square footage. How were you on product, did you have any left?
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Just curious, I'm assuming you primed and just used one kit for your square footage. How were you on product, did you have any left?
as of now i have about half of the product left and i rolled it on thick. The primer really helped alot
According to the instructions from Armor Poxy and the online video, the "anti-skid" is provided with the kit (or the upgrade kit) to empty into the top-coat prior to use.
They did send a bag pf a white powder that is anti skid but the rep said not to use that in the 2 part top coat because its designed for the 1 part top coat. Ill call and confirm before i do anything but i do have it if its needed.
 

vette-kid

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
3,636
Location
Navarre, FL
ok, you are using a different product than me(epoxy-coat), but I believe both are 100% solids, so maybe similar? Anyway, I have a few questions for you. You said you did not complete the epoxy in one application...did you have any entire section base that had to be completed? If so, did you end up with a line where the two sections meet? I have to do this (ran out of product too soon) and am concerned about having a visible line that will be obvious (admittedly not to end of the world, but don't want adhesion problems at that line either).

You also seem to have waited several days for the clear? Epoxy-coat lists a 10-24hr window on clear coat over the base. Is this not a restriction with armor clad? any other prep required for the clear?

Im trying to figure out how to salvage my disaster! Thanks!
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
ok, you are using a different product than me(epoxy-coat), but I believe both are 100% solids, so maybe similar? Anyway, I have a few questions for you. You said you did not complete the epoxy in one application...did you have any entire section base that had to be completed? If so, did you end up with a line where the two sections meet? I have to do this (ran out of product too soon) and am concerned about having a visible line that will be obvious (admittedly not to end of the world, but don't want adhesion problems at that line either).

You also seem to have waited several days for the clear? Epoxy-coat lists a 10-24hr window on clear coat over the base. Is this not a restriction with armor clad? any other prep required for the clear?

Im trying to figure out how to salvage my disaster! Thanks!

I will be able to better answer you tomorrow with the line in the epoxy. However, I would think with the amount of flake i'm using it shouldn't be a issue as the flakes will blend any lines together.

I was under the impression the 24 hr time is minimum time before you put a clear on it. I wouldn't see any reason why it would cause a problem
 

vette-kid

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2008
Messages
3,636
Location
Navarre, FL
I will be able to better answer you tomorrow with the line in the epoxy. However, I would think with the amount of flake i'm using it shouldn't be a issue as the flakes will blend any lines together.

I was under the impression the 24 hr time is minimum time before you put a clear on it. I wouldn't see any reason why it would cause a problem

Im sure its a difference in product, but the epoxy-coat says to top coat within 24hrs so that there is enough tack left for the top coat to get good adhesion (my understanding of it) and allowing longer will risk poor adhesion do to the smooth surface.
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Im sure its a difference in product, but the epoxy-coat says to top coat within 24hrs so that there is enough tack left for the top coat to get good adhesion (my understanding of it) and allowing longer will risk poor adhesion do to the smooth surface.

Gotcha. Well hopefully that's not the case. The flakes give the floor a texture hopefully it is enough to bond the top coat.
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
Hi
The recoat window is any time that the floor is dry enough to walk on up until about 48 hours. After 48 hours, a light sanding or scuffing up is required for good adhesion.
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
...and please keep us abreast on the anti-skid additive while using the "military top-coat upgrade". I'm curious too.....
Spoke with the guy from Armorpoxy just now, he is sending me the grip additive for the military top coat it wasn't shipped with the order.
Hi
The recoat window is any time that the floor is dry enough to walk on up until about 48 hours. After 48 hours, a light sanding or scuffing up is required for good adhesion.
Thank you. I'll be giving a light sanding with a sheet rock sander
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Well i finally finished the floor. I lightly sanded the surface before i put the clear coat (since i waited more than 24hrs). Im very happy with the outcome of my floor. Hopefully this provides a little feedback to armourpoxy. I went with them solely because of the 40% deal they were offering without seeing many pics of their product and im happy i decided to give them a chance.




 

SunsetsAndFriends

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
753
Well i finally finished the floor. I lightly sanded the surface before i put the clear coat (since i waited more than 24hrs). Im very happy with the outcome of my floor. Hopefully this provides a little feedback to armourpoxy. I went with them solely because of the 40% deal they were offering without seeing many pics of their product and im happy i decided to give them a chance.

Very nice! Couple of questions: did you use a primer? How many gallons of epoxy did you use?
 

djones5548

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
9
Looks great! Mine just showed up today but I won't be putting it down for a few weeks. Any tips? How is the anti skid and which did you use? I also ordered the two part top coat.
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Very nice! Couple of questions: did you use a primer? How many gallons of epoxy did you use?
I did use a primer. I used about 2/3 of the epoxy that came in the 600 sq ft kit.
Looks great! Mine just showed up today but I won't be putting it down for a few weeks. Any tips? How is the anti skid and which did you use? I also ordered the two part top coat.

Mix small batches of epoxy and Roll out small sections at a time. If you are putting epoxy on the side wall I found it was easier to put some flake in my hand and lightly blow it onto the side wall. Also getting flake right up next to the wall I found that throwing pinches of flake at the wall was best to distribute the flake against the wall evenly.
For the anti skid I mixed it all together at once with no issue. I poured about 1/2 of the can of anti skid into the mixture and mixed it up each time before pouring more into my roller pan.
The clear coat and the primer had very strong odors so make sure you wear the proper ppe and work in a well ventilated area.
 

Shea

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,866
Location
California
Great job! Your hard work has created a great looking floor coating that will last you years.
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Thanks guys the prep definitely paid off im very happy with my results
 

djones5548

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2015
Messages
9
Thank you! I got a bag and a can of anti skid, sounds like I'll use the can. Just to clarify you only used half the can? Is it fairly "rough"? Would you do the same amount again? Thanks again. Yours looks great, I'm even more excited to get mine down.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Thank you! I got a bag and a can of anti skid, sounds like I'll use the can. Just to clarify you only used half the can? Is it fairly "rough"? Would you do the same amount again? Thanks again. Yours looks great, I'm even more excited to get mine down.

Yes use the can. Mix small amounts into the clear at a time and mix before u pour into the roller pan. I would put the whole can next time
 

Brian80

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Messages
112
Location
Pennsylvania
Great write up, this pretty much sealed the deal for me on what product to go with next summer. Thank You
 

1dwn5up

Active member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
40
Location
Houston, TX
How much time did you put in to work on this? It came out great, keep updating pics once you start adding back all your garage items, tools, etc.
 

Radical540

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2015
Messages
62
Location
DETROIT! (where the weak are killed and eaten)
Looks fantastic. I've had my kit now for a few weeks, but I'm apprehensive about doing it in December in Michigan. The armor poxy Rep on here said the concrete slab should be atleast 50 degrees, and running my heat in the garage when it's in the upper 30's, low 40's outside I easily get the slab (per laser thermometer) to 65-67 degrees. But I can't shake my apprehension.
It's supposed to be 60 in MI this weekend, maybe I'll do it this weekend, once and for all.
Cheers!
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Nice! Is this Grey or Designer Grey?
Designer grey
How much time did you put in to work on this? It came out great, keep updating pics once you start adding back all your garage items, tools, etc.

Total work time I spent about 4 hrs with the edco grinder then about 3 hrs spot grinding and a day about 2-3 hrs applying each coat (primer,epoxy,clear)

I have my motors in the garage and girlfriend is parking in there everything seems good. It had its first test when I was assembling my motor, I dropped the sprocket and it landed on its teeth my heart dropped! I looked where it hit and there was nothing there! I'll post pics when I get home Wednesday I'm in NYC till then
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Actually took a few pics before I left. I built the table in the garage as well.

 

rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Jake75....great looking job. Very nice. Question......in your first post you had trouble with the shop vac and the missing filter. You said you just swept up th dust..... i figured out the squeegee was MUCH better with collecting dust and it really sped up. How did you collect dust with a squeegee? So you did not use the shop vacat all? I'm confused here. Not being smart....just confused. Thanks.
 
OP
J

jake75

Active member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
43
Jake75....great looking job. Very nice. Question......in your first post you had trouble with the shop vac and the missing filter. You said you just swept up th dust..... i figured out the squeegee was MUCH better with collecting dust and it really sped up. How did you collect dust with a squeegee? So you did not use the shop vacat all? I'm confused here. Not being smart....just confused. Thanks.

right. I didnt use the shop vac at all other than storing the concrete dust i picked up with the dust pan. I was able to use the squeegee to push the concrete dust into piles and from there sweep it up with a dust pan.
 

Radical540

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2015
Messages
62
Location
DETROIT! (where the weak are killed and eaten)
Getting closer to doing mine.
Just did the 3rd round of muriatic acid ( for my application,application, I thinking grinding would have been I messy, time consuming over-kill. Plus, I'm using their primer to mitigate problems.
Just have to fix some hairline cracks & it's ready for primer!
 

Radical540

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2015
Messages
62
Location
DETROIT! (where the weak are killed and eaten)
Greetings Fellas!
I put down my color coat (looks like "Ford" blue).
this afternoon. With the help of my adult son, we coated the small side of my 3 car garage. Goes on nice and thick- levels nicely.
My question is the curing time; with as thick as it goes on, I have to believe it's gonna take some time.
Something I read said "working time" was 20 mins. No way this will cure in 20 mins.
(What's the difference between "working time", curing time).
I suppose maybe the 24 hr. comment is accurate....?!?
Thanks boys!
 

4btcucv

New member
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
2
Did you fill your contraction joints before applying the epoxy coating? If so with what?

Also if Armorpoxy would chime in, what do you reccomend for filling contraction joints before coating?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom