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Starting a build! Any Feedback?

SammyNickels

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Sacramento
Hey All!

I just started lurking here, This place is AMAZING! I want to build my garage and i got some great ideas so far from this site.

I live in California and with the drought, its too much yard! and i need a barn! I dabble in Volkswagens, i have a 62 bus and 63 bug. I would love a garage i can move to the back yard and have my daily driver in my regular garage up front. I would also like it deep enough i can have a project on the back half of it. Here is what im working with: (and excuse my crappy yard)

Here it is looking out from my patio from my house:
3bgtl3r.jpg

vbPLm5j.jpg


here is the real estate to be converted, Just past the trees:
cA4jCWD.jpg


Here is my existing workshop / storage room.. There is RV access on the side that will provide driveway access to my workshop
ThUx9yg.jpg



Here is the view looking down the RV access. Overgrown weeds and storage for junk and dead branches i cut down!
zaullaC.jpg


Out in the yard, i have a small obstacle to work around.. a power line support that is 16 ft from the back fence and 9 ft from the side fence.. gah!
pwvjKBC.jpg




First thing to do is replace the fence. The previous owner had thought it would be a great way to add privacy to chain link by nailing plywood onto 2x4s behind it... ugly and its falling apart! The metal poles are in a cement strip running all the way around the fence line, so the new fence posts will have to be cut into the cement .. use the existing poles (not sure they are strong enough, or put the fence right to the side of the cement (lose a little real estate.


The yard is about 80ft wide, and from house to the back fence is 116 ft. I do have a small storage area / workshop already on the property that you can see in the model drawings below and above.

Looking at Garage sizes, i think i've settled with 26x36.. with the Garage enterance on the 26 ft side. City permits ensure that i am under 16 ft and 3 ft from the fence line.. not a problem. I will probably use scissor trusses so i can fit a lift in, a design very similar to xanders build. I would love to have this done aroudn the 40k range for just the garage.. Im nto sure if i want to try it myself or hire a GC.. im leaning toward a GC

Here are my designs:

TUwbcrv.jpg

Thats my GF sunbathing..
8z4tUm7.jpg


Location wise.. If the garage is 6 ft off the side fence, and 36 ft deep, that will leave a good 35-ish feet for a drive way to turn around it. I opted for a 90 degree garage because the turning radius on my VW is horrible.. and i'd rather not have to do a 180 degree turn or back down that small driveway. the 90degree will allow me to back out and drive straight out of my driveway.

Toward the back fence, i plan to have a long car port to store a vehicle or two but keep the rain off of them. i planned to have about 12 ft between the building and the back fence. to keep the cost down i will have gravel?

The side of the garage closest to the house i want to do some pavers and have a nice patio area, perhaps build a pergola.. this will be a nice area to relax after some garage work!


So.. what do you think? i know i Have a lot of work to do.. the large concrete slab in my yard i think was the former location of a pool.. and will be removed and replace with a small patch of grass you can see in the pictures. I also plan on doing planter boxes along the sides of the yard with drought resistant plants.

Any opinions or recommendations?


Bonus pic, the kids:
DgcgHms.jpg



Edit: i did talk to once contractor who quoted me 35k for a 24x30 with some covered patio. I sent him my plans for a larger structure without the covered patio and hopefully he can get it done...

I'll also have about 6k-9k in concrete work for a driveway.. any other cheaper solution that would hold up?

Anything that i could / should do myself? Perhaps he could build the structure and i could insulate and drywall myself.. my dad is an electrician (freshly retired.. sorry pop!) and there will not be any plumbing.. (maybe a sink with a drain into the gravel behind..
 
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1/2 Cup

Member Emeritus
Joined
Apr 28, 2012
Messages
19,283
Location
Shepparton. Victoria. Australia
Firstly, hi and welcome to the GJ.

I really like your concept and it should work well. Its nice to have a plan to work to as you have done.

Looking forward to following your progress..:thumbup:
 

jeff000

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
437
That guy-wire is going to be a problem, is it for the general utility, or is it a pole just for your house? If it just serves your house you could probably turn that single line into two that land closer to your fence.

For the fence, how wide is this concrete footing? And how thick? Is it in good condition? One option would be to use concrete anchors and bolt posts down. I have a general aversion to losing property square footage.
 
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SammyNickels

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Sacramento
That guy-wire is going to be a problem, is it for the general utility, or is it a pole just for your house? If it just serves your house you could probably turn that single line into two that land closer to your fence.

For the fence, how wide is this concrete footing? And how thick? Is it in good condition? One option would be to use concrete anchors and bolt posts down. I have a general aversion to losing property square footage.


Hey Jeff!

The wire supports the pole that is for the neighbors as well. I dont think the utility company would move it.. i was hoping they could do 2 wires like you said, near each fence.. but i'll just have to manage. I'll make that area a planter box.. i can put my garage far enough off the back fence it wont be a huge issue, but still obnoxious. You can see in my design photos, i represented the wire with that guard rail.

I agree with you on losing real estate!! The concrete ridge is probably about 8 inches wide but opens up after about 30 ft to about 2 ft.. big enough for a 4x4 post for sure! i didnt even think of using concrete anchors instead of burying the post in the ground.. that would help with Labor too. Is this option sturdy enough?

Firstly, hi and welcome to the GJ.

I really like your concept and it should work well. Its nice to have a plan to work to as you have done.

Looking forward to following your progress..:thumbup:


I'll be sure to keep up to date! thank you for the warm welcome
 

jeff000

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
437
Hey Jeff!

The wire supports the pole that is for the neighbors as well. I dont think the utility company would move it.. i was hoping they could do 2 wires like you said, near each fence.. but i'll just have to manage. I'll make that area a planter box.. i can put my garage far enough off the back fence it wont be a huge issue, but still obnoxious. You can see in my design photos, i represented the wire with that guard rail.

I agree with you on losing real estate!! The concrete ridge is probably about 8 inches wide but opens up after about 30 ft to about 2 ft.. big enough for a 4x4 post for sure! i didnt even think of using concrete anchors instead of burying the post in the ground.. that would help with Labor too. Is this option sturdy enough?

Not being a general utility pole you have a chance of them at least being open to moving it if you pay for it, but it's on your property so they may move it free, would depend on the agreement from when it was put in.
They could also use the bar to at least make it encroach less onto your property, by bar I mean about 3' down from where they have the cable through the pole they put a bar about 3' out perpendicular to the pole, and then use that to force the wire straight down from that point.
This is the best picture I could find of what I mean, they use this a lot up here in alleyways.
20091017203576339140850726562502996.jpg


I am sure the ancors would be good enough, depending how well the ancors are put in. I use these strut feet a lot at work, and I can't get them to move once in propely.
2072%20sq.jpg
 
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SammyNickels

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Sacramento
Not being a general utility pole you have a chance of them at least being open to moving it if you pay for it, but it's on your property so they may move it free, would depend on the agreement from when it was put in.
They could also use the bar to at least make it encroach less onto your property, by bar I mean about 3' down from where they have the cable through the pole they put a bar about 3' out perpendicular to the pole, and then use that to force the wire straight down from that point.
This is the best picture I could find of what I mean, they use this a lot up here in alleyways.
20091017203576339140850726562502996.jpg


I am sure the ancors would be good enough, depending how well the ancors are put in. I use these strut feet a lot at work, and I can't get them to move once in propely.
2072%20sq.jpg

You're the smartest man i know.
 

ADSR

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
10,713
Looking at your patio, was there a pool in there that got covered over in concrete?
 
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SammyNickels

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Sacramento
Looking at your patio, was there a pool in there that got covered over in concrete?

Hey Lord!

I think that it was a concrete pad that was Used for an above ground pool.. If it was an in ground pool, it would have taken a lot of concrete and dirt to fill! There are a few little rounded bolt caps in the concrete around the circle that looks to be some tie downs /support for an above ground pool. I'm hoping its a relatively thin concrete layer, becuase i want it out!
 

jeff000

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
437
Hey Lord!

I think that it was a concrete pad that was Used for an above ground pool.. If it was an in ground pool, it would have taken a lot of concrete and dirt to fill! There are a few little rounded bolt caps in the concrete around the circle that looks to be some tie downs /support for an above ground pool. I'm hoping its a relatively thin concrete layer, becuase i want it out!

I'd bet it was an in ground pool simply because it was two pours, had it just been a pad they would have done it in one pour. Backfill is cheap. The top slap is probably 4" thick give or take, but where the walls were you might run into the walls which would ****. Generally when they back fill a pool they slam a bunch of holes in the bottom and sides and leave the concrete that was in the parts they bust out in the bottom of the pool. At least you really only need 6" of dirt to have a nice lawn.
 
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SammyNickels

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
8
Location
Sacramento
I'd bet it was an in ground pool simply because it was two pours, had it just been a pad they would have done it in one pour. Backfill is cheap. The top slap is probably 4" thick give or take, but where the walls were you might run into the walls which would ****. Generally when they back fill a pool they slam a bunch of holes in the bottom and sides and leave the concrete that was in the parts they bust out in the bottom of the pool. At least you really only need 6" of dirt to have a nice lawn.

Can the concrete i dig up be used for my garage foundtion to take up space and save me cost on the foundation? or would it just compromise the foundation quality?

another plus is i wouldnt have to make a large trip to the dump.
 

encantofred

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
238
Location
Arizona
i for one would never use old broken up concrete for filler. it is just too unstable and difficult to compact around completely

my two cents worth

tom
 

jeff000

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
437
i for one would never use old broken up concrete for filler. it is just too unstable and difficult to compact around completely

my two cents worth

tom

It's great for filling in an old pool. But I agree, I wouldn't use it as fill for a building unless it was ground up first, then it's excellent.
 
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