Starting a kitchen remodel, cabinets first.

[Planeguy50]

Blum 563H undermount glides with the 965-536 side adjusting locks and their soft close hinges are my go to parts. Try 'em, you'll like'em. :} Your doing all the work to make your own boxes, it would be a shame to use antiquated hardware.

I agree with shelteredV. I have installed all sorts of slides over the years. Wooden drawer guides, basic cheapo kitchen slides, ball bearing full extension slides and the Blum undermount glides are hands down the best I have ever used.

Once you have figured out the basic drawer dimensions and have bought/made drilling jigs for the drawer attachment points, assembly and mounting goes very quickly. They can get a bit pricey if you buy from the big box stores but there are much better deals to be had from other suppliers. Even volume discounts if your doing a whole kitchen.

 

[derek_m]

following this, as i plan to make cabinets as well for my kitchen.

but i have a question on the utility room floor. if you exposed the structure and had access to the floor joists, why not sister the joists instead of shimming above the sub floor to get it level?

 

[mike93lx]

following this, as i plan to make cabinets as well for my kitchen.

but i have a question on the utility room floor. if you exposed the structure and had access to the floor joists, why not sister the joists instead of shimming above the sub floor to get it level?

Shimming would be a lot less work and far cheaper

 

[tymbo]

A good rule of thumb with door widths is to keep them under square. This cabinet door is wider than it is tall. I would have split this into 2 doors. Less stress on the hinges, and the door doesn't stick out so far when open.

 

[derek_m]

Shimming would be a lot less work and far cheaper

even though he had all of the joists exposed and the floor ripped out? cheaper sure but i don't see it being easier.

 

[mike93lx]

even though he had all of the joists exposed and the floor ripped out? cheaper sure but i don't see it being easier.

Ita easier to handle, level and install joists rather than some light, cheap shims? What am i missing?

 

[NUTTSGT]

following this, as i plan to make cabinets as well for my kitchen.

but i have a question on the utility room floor. if you exposed the structure and had access to the floor joists, why not sister the joists instead of shimming above the sub floor to get it level?

Shimming would be a lot less work and far cheaper

It wasn't that simple to sister the floor joists. Let me see if I can find the a better picture.


Well, isn't this nice. I've hardly used the home PC in the last few weeks and the wife has let the granddaughter play on it. Now there are apps that will not open up. Great, just f'ing great.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Ok, let me see if I can get this attached. No doubt it'll probably either small or a grainy picture.

First of all, keep in mind this is an old house, probably 1900's give or take a decade. The front of the house is built on stone foundation and the rear is on CMU but over a crawl space. Both the front and rear of the house framing sit on large wood beams, about 10" square.

The circled yellow, the longer one is the beam that runs the back wall of the front of the house.

The shorter perpendicular yellow is beam running along the side of the back of the house over the crawl space. Where these beams meet was two other beams, one somebody hacked out and the other, I made a beam hanger and attached it to a beam in the ceiling.

The red circle shows a header/joist from the original location of the stairway. At some point it was moved and smaller 2x6s were added to fill in the gap.

The blue on the right is a floor built on top of another floor. The lower floor looked to be an old porch floor. Notice the old sewer stack that I had to remove.

The green on the left is a floor that was fairly solid, as compared to the rest of the floor. However, it ran between some large beam.

The gray in the upper left is my closet. I already had this section done, glued and screwed, it wasn't coming back up. It was a floor on top of another floor raised up at some point.


All in all, there was literally 4 different floor levels, all built different. Sistering some joists would have be nice, but they weren't there. I did the best I could with what I had. When you remodel an old home, sometimes you have to get creative, very creative. The floor is solid now, very solid. It's glued, screwed and nailed. I used PL375, I think, and I was very liberally with it. Honestly, I pity the poor fool that ever tried to remove it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

even though he had all of the joists exposed and the floor ripped out? cheaper sure but i don't see it being easier.

Ita easier to handle, level and install joists rather than some light, cheap shims? What am i missing?

I hope the above posts explains what I had to deal with and answers your questions.

 

[NUTTSGT]

A good rule of thumb with door widths is to keep them under square. This cabinet door is wider than it is tall. I would have split this into 2 doors. Less stress on the hinges, and the door doesn't stick out so far when open.

That cabinet is a bit odd. It's replacing a cabinet of very similar size. It sits beside the stove and has a slide out drawer for pots/pans. It's what the wife wanted to keep in that location. Slightly odd size, but you pick your battles with the wife when it comes to a kitchen remodel.

 

[swaterbenny]

They look good, I like the plywood idea, still a huge upgrade from the particle board Menard's ones we bought!

How are you making the tongue and groove joint for your door frames?

Ben

 

[MoonRise]

3. The wife will be deciding that for the most part. Basically we'll be duplicating most of the kitchen we have now with a few twists. A new island will be longer and entirely different. The wife wants electric on it and not sure if that's going to fly with the final design.

"electric on it" as in having electrical outlets on the island?

If that is what you are pondering/discussing, pretty much outlets on a kitchen island are REQUIRED.

Any kitchen counter space 12 inches or bigger MUST have outlet(s) available at that counter space.

And no place on a kitchen counter can be greater than 24 inches away from an outlet.

There are some spacing exemptions for the sink and the stovetop areas.

Cool project.

 

[NUTTSGT]

"electric on it" as in having electrical outlets on the island?

If that is what you are pondering/discussing, pretty much outlets on a kitchen island are REQUIRED.

Any kitchen counter space 12 inches or bigger MUST have outlet(s) available at that counter space.

And no place on a kitchen counter can be greater than 24 inches away from an outlet.

There are some spacing exemptions for the sink and the stovetop areas.

Cool project.

Yes, outlets on the island. While I can understand the yes, they have to have them. The current island we have, is more like a standing free cabinet. It can be moved by sliding across the floor. It's not affixed to the floor like a permanent counter top.

My concern is is moving and creating a wiring issue. My thought has been to put a floor outlet in and them merely connect the outlets via cord. Something that can be unplugged when the island needs moved.

My opinion is that our kitchen is not big enough to have a island of the size she wants.

 

[captain14]

My opinion is that our kitchen is not big enough to have a island of the size she wants.

Quiet. Say that loud enough that will be next summers project. Just a small bump out.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Quiet. Say that loud enough that will be next summers project. Just a small bump out.

It's in the middle of the house, stairway on one side and bedroom/bathroom on the other. It literally can't get any bigger.

 

[jar944]

Blum 563H undermount glides with the 965-536 side adjusting locks and their soft close hinges are my go to parts. Try 'em, you'll like'em. :} Your doing all the work to make your own boxes, it would be a shame to use antiquated hardware.

That would be my suggestion on the slides as well, though I prefer salice hinges.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Not much work been going on in the cabinet dept. I mounted the last set of doors for the base cabinets and made the drawer fronts.

 

[MoonRise]

Yes, outlets on the island. While I can understand the yes, they have to have them. The current island we have, is more like a standing free cabinet. It can be moved by sliding across the floor. It's not affixed to the floor like a permanent counter top.

My concern is is moving and creating a wiring issue. My thought has been to put a floor outlet in and them merely connect the outlets via cord. Something that can be unplugged when the island needs moved.

My opinion is that our kitchen is not big enough to have a island of the size she wants.

If you want/need a 'mobile' island, then make a kitchen 'cart' on casters. It's a cart, not a kitchen counter.

Or a farm house kitchen table. It's a table, not a kitchen counter.

No plumbing and no electrical, just counter/prep space.

If you make a 'cabinet' island, then even if it is just 'sitting' on the floor then it would probably be called a counter/island and the electrical outlet requirements would be triggered.

A floor outlet in a kitchen would require a 'wet-use' cover, which would no longer be wet-use as soon as the cover was removed.

And such a floor outlet doesn't meet the Code requirement of a countertop outlet. Because the countertop outlets are required to be at or above the counter surface, except for an island/peninsula or for the physically impaired where they can be mounted below the countertop but no more than 1 foot below the counter surface and no more than 6 inches from the countertop edge.

And receptacles must not be installed face-up in countertops or similar work surfaces in a dwelling.

https://www.ecmweb.com/qampa/stumpe...let-requirements-placing-receptacles-countert

 

[mike93lx]

Hi there We seem to be on the same hunt here We are considering renovating our kitchen, which at the moment is very small.

We are considering whether to remove wall between kitchen and laundry to make kitchen bigger or to work with existing space.

Unfortunately we are fairly clueless on renovating and could really do with consulting with someone to give ideas. We are reading on some trends in kitchen renovation. Obviously removing a wall is going to be quite costly.

So keep you posted on the results soon (or not soon)

A wall removal doesn't need to be costly, depends on whether it is load bearing or not. Look for local contractors with good reviews and ask friends for a referral