I am just getting ready to start framing my garage with some reclaimed lumber that we got from tearing down 2 old houses. It is all good yellow pine. I also have a large quantity of 1x8 that was the sheathing from the houses. I am thinking about using this to sheath my garage to save some money on OSB. What are the thoughts on using this and should it be put on at a 45 degree angle or put on straight?
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Starting garage build
- Thread starter nfk
- Start date
Falcon67
Well-known member
Back when lumber was pennies a board foot and not dollars, my grandad used similar stuff and put it on at a 45 degree angle. That usually results in a stronger wall. If it was me, I would figure up what I had and what it took to cover the walls, then chose what worked with the least amount of scrap.
little d
Well-known member
Falcon is right, 45 from top plate to bottom plate is strongest but it depends on what siding your gona use. If your going with a 4 by 8 sheet it's way over kill but would work with a lap style of siding.
Just thinking out loud here but, damn that boxing would look killer on the inside of a shop.
Just thinking out loud here but, damn that boxing would look killer on the inside of a shop.
Falcon is right, 45 from top plate to bottom plate is strongest but it depends on what siding your gona use. If your going with a 4 by 8 sheet it's way over kill but would work with a lap style of siding.
Just thinking out loud here but, damn that boxing would look killer on the inside of a shop.
Well I probably have enough material to do the inside as well. There is quite a bit of it. Its been out of the weather and in good shape as well. I do think I am going to use OSB on the roof to save some time though.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
You can go from side to side with 1x8, but you need to put a 45 degree board (1x6, 1x8) from the top plate to the bottom plate in the corners. This is called wind bracing. Older building have it all of the time and it should bet "cut into" the studs with a tight fit, not just nailed on top of the studs.
If the wall is very long, you may have to do 45s in the center.
If the wall is very long, you may have to do 45s in the center.
If I end up using the 1x8 I think I will install it diagonally to save the trouble of putting the extra bracing boards in. Although I may decide it's not worth the extra couple hundred dollars savings and just use 7/16 osb and do it fast and easy.
64dragnwagon
Well-known member
If I end up using the 1x8 I think I will install it diagonally to save the trouble of putting the extra bracing boards in. Although I may decide it's not worth the extra couple hundred dollars savings and just use 7/16 osb and do it fast and easy.
The 7/16 osb will cost more than a couple hundred $. I would use what you have, it will be stronger and save money plus what would you do with it if you don't use it? Definatly 45 degree on all of it. It is not difficult, start in one corner and let it "run wild" past the framing and come back after it is up and cut it flush with a circular saw. This saves a lot of measuring and cutting 45's.
I am going to go count up how much 1x8 I have this weekend and see if there is enough to do the whole job for sure. if not I will probably sheath the side with the garage doors is osb. My stud walls are 8'-10" sitting on top of a stem wall. If I use 4'-8' osb stood up vertically I will need to put in a 10" piece at the top. Should I put in 2x4 backing for the horizontal seam in the OSB?
little d
Well-known member
nfk, you never said what type of siding you are going to use?
On the walls, if ya don't mind me asking, why 8' 10"? If it is for ceiling hight, there are easyer ways to get there but, ya if you are going with 8' 10" studs, ya need to add blocking, or at least, I would.
On the walls, if ya don't mind me asking, why 8' 10"? If it is for ceiling hight, there are easyer ways to get there but, ya if you are going with 8' 10" studs, ya need to add blocking, or at least, I would.
nfk, you never said what type of siding you are going to use?
On the walls, if ya don't mind me asking, why 8' 10"? If it is for ceiling hight, there are easyer ways to get there but, ya if you are going with 8' 10" studs, ya need to add blocking, or at least, I would.
I am using Hardi-plank siding. I am going 8'-10" stud walls so that I will have a 10' ceiling height with my 14" stem wall.
little d
Well-known member
Have ya thought about a cathedral (spelling) or valted type of ceiling?
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