Starting Kitchen base cabinet install in non-square corner

[branimal]

I'm installing a U-shaped kitchen and my starting corner isn't square. It's out 3/16" over 24".

There's a short leg 79 1/2" - the wall with the refrigerator. And the base of the U ("long leg") is a 168". See diagram.

I'll be using refrigerator panels to enclose the fridge.

I've read that I should split the difference for non square corners. But given the relative lengths of each leg and the fact that I can cover up any gaps with the fridge panels, should I shim the cabinets on the short leg, and install the long leg right up to the wall?

 

[dfiler2]

The problem is going to show up in the counter tops, I would split the difference and make the front of the cabinets square with each other.

 

[Nowater]

In the other direction, start your cabinets at the high point on the floor and set that cabinet very close to the floor height. Raise the other cabinets to that height.

If you don't, your cabinets may possibly be too high by the time you get to the stove or dishwasher.

As far as the corner, I remember overthinking this on my install, and I forget what I did!

 

[billconner]

In your plan, I believe I would first try to get long center run parallel with wall, and then fill gaps at the ends of the U. If you follow one if the sides and it makes the long center run varying depth, it will be noticeable. not so noticeable (or as hard to scribe) on shorter side runs.

 

[jar944]

Are the walls out of square or is it mud buildup in the corner?

 

[rlitman]

I'm missing something. Is the corner acute or obtuse?

If acute, you just push the cabinet back as far as it will go.

If obtuse, I would push the right corner back to the wall and shim both the left and DB24, assuming that the fridge panel is sufficiently wide. That's because if you do anything else, the DW will either sit at an angle to the counter's edge, or be more deeply recessed on one side.

 

[egdede]

^^^ This ^^^ (EDIT: I was replying to Jar44 but Rlitman snuck in before i was done.) And the problem can be compounded over the years on old houses. My house is 90 years old. There is mud buildup everywhere as walls have been patched and repaired. I have broke out a planer with an old blade to level things down (that's dusty!). You'll be needing a chisel in the corner if buildup is the problem and you have plaster underneath drywall mud. In my house there are places where it seems like someone used plaster of paris (it's hard as ****).

 

[claymont]

^^^ This ^^^ (EDIT: I was replying to Jar44 but Rlitman snuck in before i was done.) And the problem can be compounded over the years on old houses. My house is 90 years old. There is mud buildup everywhere as walls have been patched and repaired. I have broke out a planer with an old blade to level things down (that's dusty!). You'll be needing a chisel in the corner if buildup is the problem and you have plaster underneath drywall mud. In my house there are places where it seems like someone used plaster of paris (it's hard as ****).

Angle grinder with diamond disk and a vacuum attachment makes the job easy and less messy.

 

[paredown]

The problem is going to show up in the counter tops, I would split the difference and make the front of the cabinets square with each other.

This is more or less what we just did in our Habitat house--problem was the framing was off square (it was an existing addition, not built by us) that we relocated the kitchen in. We squared the end and long side to each other and to the third face which was the old exterior wall--u-shaped kitchen. It took some serious shims since the long side was out well over an inch.

We knew we were templating and fabbing countertops anyways, and ensuring the two faces were square (and square to the third face) gave us a square work area, and the plank flooring will square up nicely to the cabinet kicks, since the flooring extends in from the older part of the house that was reasonably square.

 

[branimal]

Are the walls out of square or is it mud buildup in the corner?

The walls are out of square. I framed and rocked it, and hired a pro to mud it. I used a 16x24 square to frame it.

 

[branimal]

I'm missing something. Is the corner acute or obtuse?

If acute, you just push the cabinet back as far as it will go.

If obtuse, I would push the right corner back to the wall and shim both the left and DB24, assuming that the fridge panel is sufficiently wide. That's because if you do anything else, the DW will either sit at an angle to the counter's edge, or be more deeply recessed on one side.

Its obtuse. 91*. So not out a lot.

I ordered a 30" wide fridge panel so I think I'll be ok. The Case depth without door is 24 1/8". And the Case depth with door is 29".

 

[rlitman]

...I used a 16x24 square to frame it.

Ohhhh. Yeah, that'll lead you astray. I always measure out a 3,4,5 triangle at the corner, or double that if I have the length.

Anyway, if you're having a countertop templated and custom fabricated, it'll hide everything. Heck, you could take up a bunch of that angle by simply angling the DB24 off the corner by running it parallel to the left wall, and the cornet cabinet parallel to the back wall. The gap in the back afforded by the face frame stick-out makes this easy. Am I making sense?

 

[nadogail]

Off all things I remember from Junior High School the 3,4,5, Triangle is right near the top of the list.

 

[Hank11]

I'd draw good square lines on the floor (or on tape on the floor) and then set all the cabinet fronts to the lines. Shim the backs to fit when you screw it all in. Your counter top and backsplash will cover.