Starting Metal Working Table

[ddawg16]

Now that the garage is done...I get to use it....which includes making all the work surfaces that I have wanted....one of which is a metal working table.

I would really like to have the room to have a table like OccupantRJ does....about 6' long, 4' wide...with a 1/4" plate steel top...big *** vise on one end and a ton of storage drawers underneath...

Don't have that much room so I'm thinking a little smaller. I'm building a 24"x24" table....enough to space to mount my 'almost big *** vise' on...and have enough room for the usual jeep stuff (like beating the U-joints out of a ds).

First step is getting a useful surface top...and here it is...

24" x 24" x 1" plate steel.....yes boys, 1" thick...at 40.8 lbs/sq ft, that works out to about 163.2 lbs....just for the top surface. I figure I can beat on that pretty good before it moves....by the time I add the vice, legs, and junk drawer under it...it will be over 200 lbs.

I also plan to add a swing up grate that I can use for welding/cutting.

The only things I'm not sure about yet is how tall...and if I should put wheels on it (metal).

Right now I'm thinking around 30"...that would put the vice up around 36-37".....when I'm using it, I will most likely be beating the **** out of something so it makes sense to put the work surface somewhat level with my elbow.

???? Agree? Disagree?

 

[robertlynk]

1. Wait until your other half leaves to run errands etc.
2. Carry the vice into kitchen set on card board on counter test comfort at this level
3. If acceptable set bench at this height
4. Quickly remove vice from kitchen and remove all evidence
5. Build bench

 

[Kevin54]

I'd put some heavy duty casters on it. I'd also look at putting a receiver on it and mounting the vise that way. Then weld a lighter piece of tubing underneath. If you need the full table, pull the vice out, flip it upside down and store it under the table. 2'x2' is not real big so you really don't want anymore on top than necessary. Other than that, you have a heck of a work surface to pound on.

 

[Shadowdog500]

How tall are you? Most kitchen counters are set around 36" and sometimes they are set at 42". I tend to get a back ache when bending over a 32" workbench all day, so all of my workbenches are set at 42" which is perfect for me. Welding tables tend to be more towards the lower number.

If you put your vise on the kitchen counter, don't let go of it. Vises are front heavy and tend to flip forward off of the counter shortly after you let go.

Chris

 

[Tantara]

I am in the middle of reducing the work surfaces in my shop. Too big of a work surface turns it into a shelf. If I need a larger table I put a piece of plywood on my lift. I think you have the perfect size table if you keep it clean.


Brad

 

[49tandc]

I'd weld a 2" hitch receiver (or just a long piece of thick wall tubing) underneath the top, pointing out - flush with one of the sides. Instead of having a stationary bead roller; brake or bender, modify each tool (add a 2" tubing to it ) so it slips into the receiver. When the tool is needed, slide the bead roller/brake/bender, etc. into the receiver. Remove the tool and store it elsewhere when not in use. It would free up floor space yet still give you the space around the tool when needed.

49T&C

 

[kc-steve]

Looks like a good start. You know better than anyone else what YOUR needs are so it is pointless to say one style is better than another. But I used 3/8"x22"x48" table top because it was cheap, not too heavy, available and works. It was scrap metal. I built the rest of the table to suit the top and meet my own needs.

The table attachment shown below uses the 2" box frame and holds an abrasive metal saw, level with the table top. It easily slides in and out. Casters are quality $50 each from Grainger Supply rated at 450lbs each.

Good luck,
Steve

 

[ddawg16]

Looks like a good start. You know better than anyone else what YOUR needs are so it is pointless to say one style is better than another. ......

But, all too often we don't know what we need until we see what someone else is doing. Hence, the ideas are much welcome.

I'm on the fence on mounting the vice on top or on a reciever.....I agree that having a clear work surface is ideal....but I have also heard that the reciever method is not as secure....

I'm leaning towards wheels....due to space, it would work out better to be able to park it in the corner when not being used and roll it out in the middle when needed.

Height? That is a tough one....my current work benches are at about 40" now....great for wood working...but if I'm going to be hammering....I like it lower....

More ideas and suggestons welcome....

 

[Professur]

Instead of putting wheels on it, just build it with positions for jacking and dollies. I'm a fan of building a removable triangle dolly for jackstands and using that to move stuff about. With a 1" top, I'm thinking you're gonna want big feet on it.

 

[kc-steve]

Instead of putting wheels on it, just build it with positions for jacking and dollies. I'm a fan of building a removable triangle dolly for jackstands and using that to move stuff about. With a 1" top, I'm thinking you're gonna want big feet on it.

He-he, I just spotted your location. I'm a BIG fan of Cheech and Chong from the early 70s. . . . "You from Ka-Na-Da? Not you are? A?"


Steve

 

[A_Pmech]

Looks like a good start.

My suggestion would be to build a proper frame for it. I've seen too many good pieces of plate turned into marginal tables by welding whatever small scrap was at hand to the underside of the plate, almost as an afterthought.

This is what I consider a proper frame:

 

[Professur]

Looks like a good start.

My suggestion would be to build a proper frame for it. I've seen too many good pieces of plate turned into marginal tables by welding whatever small scrap was at hand to the underside of the plate, almost as an afterthought.

This is what I consider a proper frame:

damn ... that's too pretty to use.

 

[babzog]

damn ... that's too pretty to use.

I was thinking much the same.... what a work of art; the polish is beautiful!

K... where's my hammer, that table needs some serious de-prettying!

 

[kc-steve]

Yeah, a proper frame is important. I used 2" box tubing. The 1st photo shows mine upside down. The whole table together weighs about 200lbs without vise or accessories.

Steve

 

[djd99]

damn ... that's too pretty to use.

X2 I'd be afraid to use that as a work surface I would want that in my living room. lol
I agree with mounting a 2" receiver for your vise, a 2 x 2 area doesn't leave much room to work so keeping it clear is a must.

 

[Crusty Nut]

I would not put wheels on it. I have a 2.5 X 5 ft table with a 1/2" top and a VERY sturdy frame. It wieghs around 400 pounds. I bolted it to the wall to stop it moving around on me.
It isn't the hammering, it's all the prying, twisting, bending, ect... that will make it walk.
Yours is going to be smaller and lighter. If it was on wheels, it would be of little value to me.

 

[R6 Racer]

Looks like a good start.

My suggestion would be to build a proper frame for it. I've seen too many good pieces of plate turned into marginal tables by welding whatever small scrap was at hand to the underside of the plate, almost as an afterthought.

This is what I consider a proper frame:

I do like the looks of this table. It's gorgeous! Almost to pretty to use!
But!
I have seen/read in other "workbench" threads that one should leave the frame of your table back(smaller) from(than) the top of such a table in order to make it easier to clamp things to the top.
What is the general concencis?
Build the frame right to the edge of the top plate. Like the table above, Or, build the frame back a few inches from the edge of the top.
Like these vvvvvvvvv (Sorry I forget who these benches belong to!)

 

[gc427]

Build it with the foundation back a few inches from the edge of the top so you can clamp things to the top easily.

Another idea is to drill and tap several holes of different sizes to hold/clamp things to the top as well.

 

[ZRX61]

Measure from your elbow to the ground. Subtract the height of the vise. The remaining figure is the height of your work surface.

 

[Ray-CA]

John,

I really like this:

"Sarcasm (n.) - the ability to insult idiots without them realizing it."

It also has the advantage of not many will call the Sgt. to complain.....

Ray

 

[ddawg16]

I do like the looks of this table. It's gorgeous! Almost to pretty to use!
But!
I have seen/read in other "workbench" threads that one should leave the frame of your table back(smaller) from(than) the top of such a table in order to make it easier to clamp things to the top.
What is the general concencis?
Build the frame right to the edge of the top plate. Like the table above, Or, build the frame back a few inches from the edge of the top.Like these vvvvvvvvv (Sorry I forget who these benches belong to!)

I would be willing to bet that table is actually part of tooling used in aerospace....see the swirl marks on the top? It was percision shaved....I bet it's acurate to withing .002" once it's set. About the only thing that would be more stable would be a granite slab....

I was thinking about that......I will most likely split the difference....lip on one side....flush on the other....

As for wheels vs feet....I think I'll do both....build it with flat feet....but add wheels inside the frame that are about 1/8" from the floor and on a hinged plate with a lever....push down on the lever and it pushes the wheels down just enough so I can roll it.

 

[Jack Olsen]

As for wheels vs feet....I think I'll do both....build it with flat feet....but add wheels inside the frame that are about 1/8" from the floor and on a hinged plate with a lever....push down on the lever and it pushes the wheels down just enough so I can roll it.

Smart.

I hate hammering on surfaces with wheels underneath -- even if the casters are locked, the table doesn't push back. Then again, you'll want to move something like that. It's a nice piece of steel.

 

[santagary]

I agree with Crusty Nut. Wheels will make it walk all over the shop and they will be the weak point. Not too many wheels, other than cast iron ones are strong enough to take the pounding you're talking about.

 

[Kevin54]

damn ... that's too pretty to use.

Blanchard ground top.

 

[Abbott]

Hey John...here is what I use. The table height is 33" and the vise jaws are at 44". Notice the tables feet...the table slides around on the garage slab to put it away no problems but gives a bit more stability then wheels do. I built it out of scrap from the junk store, a couple cut offs from uni strut (super strut) and a slab of plate I paid about $30.00 for at the scrapyard. I also slide a small metal shim into (under the yoke) the receiver when the vise is installed. This setup offers me a flat surface when needed.

Edit: The receiver and vise mounting plate are from HF.

 

[bmwpower]

As for wheels vs feet....I think I'll do both....build it with flat feet....but add wheels inside the frame that are about 1/8" from the floor and on a hinged plate with a lever....push down on the lever and it pushes the wheels down just enough so I can roll it.

If you can figure out a way to do it, let us know. I'd love to do that. I haven't see a perfect solution yet

 

[swharris]

Looks like a good start.

My suggestion would be to build a proper frame for it. I've seen too many good pieces of plate turned into marginal tables by welding whatever small scrap was at hand to the underside of the plate, almost as an afterthought.

This is what I consider a proper frame:

Very nice, but I would want at least a 2" overhang so I could clamp things to the top.

 

[swharris]

As for wheels vs feet....I think I'll do both....build it with flat feet....but add wheels inside the frame that are about 1/8" from the floor and on a hinged plate with a lever....push down on the lever and it pushes the wheels down just enough so I can roll it.

^^^^^Good idea. Will use this when building mine

 

[customcab]

I used 1" also, and bolted it to the wall and floor. Weighs right at 600 lbs. Drilled and tapped it for the vice and have since made some other tapped holes for different clamps, etc.

 

[mad57]

heres a pic of mine plenty of sturdy for hammering things but will slide even with the weight of the plate when really twisting stuff in the vise, back wall and partial side is good for grinding in that direction and catching welding spray /slag ect, my vice is mounted on corner and is sometimes in the way thinking of receiver style but not sure yet, also i picked up a chain vice simple 3 point bolt down and a chain loop adjustable to almost 11in and a quick turn handel, just like pipe vise for threading pipe but works great on welding table, its not shown in the pic but is a great addition.

 

[mad57]

just found this deal on cl in nj.
http://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/1985521129.html

 

[Vinko]

You have that table blanchard ground like the one in the photo. Why not?

I'd also consider some urethane wheels from Albion. Or Urethane with an alum. or steel core. I like 5" myself. Though have used 4-10" on various work tables I've made.

I like a 2" sq. tubing frame. Let me see if I can find photos.

 

[red92s]

You have that table blanchard ground like the one in the photo. Why not?

It's not exactly easy to find places with large blanchard grinding capabilities. It's also 100% overkill for this application. Unless you are using it as a machine base or for precise layout work, that's a pretty aggressive and expensive step to take.

 

[scuba0459]

Measure from your elbow to the ground. Subtract the height of the vise. The remaining figure is the height of your work surface.

You are exactly correct and the height you suggest is ergonomically correct.

 

[e-tek]

Here's mine Ddawg. Bought it for $50 from an auction, put wheels on it (a must for me!) and the big ol vice from a neighbour/friends estate sale. I love it.

 

[Vinko]

It's not exactly easy to find places with large blanchard grinding capabilities. It's also 100% overkill for this application. Unless you are using it as a machine base or for precise layout work, that's a pretty aggressive and expensive step to take.

He's in LA. We've got the capability As to over-kill, a difference of opinion (I love over-kill, if you've seen my tables posted on here).

 

[McRae]

If you can figure out a way to do it, let us know. I'd love to do that. I haven't see a perfect solution yet

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=427463&postcount=119

Jay's solution is brilliant IMO.

 

[red92s]

He's in LA. We've got the capability As to over-kill, a difference of opinion (I love over-kill, if you've seen my tables posted on here).

When overkill runs $75+ an hour for the average joe walking into a machine shop, it gets hard to justify in a hurry.

 

[Vinko]

When overkill runs $75+ an hour for the average joe walking into a machine shop, it gets hard to justify in a hurry.

Point taken

 

[archimedes]

greetings,

okey, dokey --- seems like a good time for a 1st post & an introduction too . . .
about metal tables with or without wheels --- understand the dilemma
of this personal choice, for me i kind of needed the wheels, but then i
don't consider casters as legitimate substitutes for a good quality tire & rim . . .
in a tight space like mine i need as many conveniences as possible.
pneumatics work wonders: when i need the rolling efficiency i air up the tires.
when i don't -- i let the air out & the table/stand sit nicely on the floor.

in this pic - pulling the mill table off
View media item 5924
and then moving the mill table into position for installation
View media item 5925
seems like a cool forum,
scott