Starting my 30x60 plan

[investedone]

I've been racking my brain for over a year trying to decide on a layout and may have found one that works.

30'x60' overall

20'x30' will be a home office work space. It cannot be smaller and must be separated from the garage by a wall. Should I ever need it bigger in the future, I can just move the wall.

Garage will be 30x40 and will be mostly for parking, a tool bench & tool storage. No lifts or trailers.

10' ceiling height to accommodate 9' tall garage doors and the lean to.

The garage door layout has been stalling the entire project and I think the space here might be comfortable.

Any thoughts? It's 1 foot between each overhead door.

 

[rayra]

Congrats on the build.
Wider.
Multiples of 4' will reduce wastage and amount of cutting required.

 

[Kevkx125]

Here is a link to my 30x40 set up investedone, sounds like you have a nice plan

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=411435&page=2

 

[Vt_k9]

I think you would be happier with at least a 32' or even a 36' space. One foot between doors is not much at all. I have 2 10x10' doors with 3' between them. I wish I had 4'. That would be ideal.

Mike

 

[JoeMcGov]

All exterior mandoors 4'-0" wide. A little better thought out weatherproofing is required but I would also swing them out and not in.

What is your general shop wall and roof construction? Wood? Steel?

 

[Stuart in MN]

All exterior mandoors 4'-0" wide.

36" is about as wide as you'll find without having to special order them.

 

[RSr]

Any thoughts? It's 1 foot between each overhead door.

1 ft between overhead doors isn't a lot of shear strength for the wind that blows on the 60 ft side. If the structure isn't enginerred that needs to be increased.

Good luck

 

[James-W]

1 ft between overhead doors isn't a lot of shear strength for the wind that blows on the 60 ft side. If the structure isn't engineered that needs to be increased.

Good luck

I agree, one foot between doors and one foot to the outside walls is not very strong without some serious bracing. I don't think it will meet the local building code. When I built my garage I was told by the building inspector that I needed to have a minimum of four feet between the overhead door and the sides of the building and also I need to have four feet from the end of the building to the man door. If I had less that four feet, then I needed to have engineered bracing in order to meet the building code. I suspect it would be similar in most places.

 

[firebirdparts]

You may need a big door between the garage and the office, but of course it's trivial to add that later.

I would agree on the dimension between exterior doors. You don't think about that until you try to build it, and then you realize you can't really secure that very well. The three bay approach in a 30 foot building is a squeeze, obviously. You see that. If you wanted to work on cars you would take a two bay approach in a building this size.

I am confused about the 4 foot exterior door comment above. I don't want 4 foot exterior man doors on my garage.

 

[Samh]

1 ft between overhead doors isn't a lot of shear strength for the wind that blows on the 60 ft side. If the structure isn't enginerred that needs to be increased.

Good luck

Was going to say the same thing. Seems like going with one wide garage door would be a better solution.

 

[investedone]

I'm glad I posted this! The engineer that drew up the plans came up with the 1 foot between doors idea. No one questioned it either and I got prices from both pole and conventional builders.

A 16' and 8' door would give me 2' on the outside walls and between the doors, but will be a tight squeeze. I wanted to easily access the ATV (for plowing) and bike without having to shuffle vehicles and without losing space behind the vehicles.
I can put the doors on the side, but it would create an awkward driveway situation because of my property layout and I don't want to deal with snow melting off of the roof in front of the OHDs

I think by the way I'm going with conventional stick built and shingle roof. .. and 36" man doors.

 

[johnnyradiant]

A 10' at the bottom of the drawing with the truck there. A 14' in the middle with the Durango and parked up inline with the truck front and you'd have the same or more clearance going in on an angle for the toys. Then if you want a 6' roll up on the top side and a front bike could come out on a path on that side. Snow wouldn't be an issue 'cause not many people bring their bikes out in the snow. (**As long as the Durango could be as far forward as your truck, your sketch is more or less to scale, and you swap the motorcyle & atv locations opposite to your label.)

 

[RSr]

I think by the way I'm going with conventional stick built and shingle roof. .. and 36" man doors.

For conventional framed walls, look up "portal frame" construction for information on the required widths between garage doors. Thats the standard for non-engineered garage door shear wall size. If your plans will be stamped by an engineer or architect (but not a designer or draftsman who won't stamp the plans) then you can rely on their insurance to backup their design.

 

[glentre]

I have a three car garage with 19" wide stud columns on both sides of the middle door. The local building dept required me to have a structural engineer change the original design to meet the portal frame construction requirements and to have the drawing stamped by him.

We are in eastern Virginia on a river in an area subject to some fierce hurricane winds so that may have been the reason for re-engineering the door openings. Your local code may not be as strict.

With 9 ft wide doors, I have plenty of space between cars to open their doors completely and no problem working with cars in all three bays.

Glen

 

[ard]

Think about a door into the bathroom from inside the office.