Starting out Mechanic

[Ruger_556]

I haven't found anything else to bust the springs and brake shoes apart as easily, or as quickly.

Part # BT518
https://store.snapon.com/Truck-Brak...or-air-brakes-with-S-cam-design--P636136.aspx

Long taper punch with a point ground on the end is wayyyy faster, use it under the bottom end of the two smaller springs. Good whack with a hammer and they take themselves off

 

[flmng42]

Long taper punch with a point ground on the end is wayyyy faster, use it under the bottom end of the two smaller springs. Good whack with a hammer and they take themselves off

I always just took a 3/8 flat screwdriver slipped under the bottom hooks of the two smaller springs and pryed out to pop them off. Then disassemble the shoes with big spring still attached. One whack with a hammer knocks the pin out. Going back together my way was a bit riskier. Assemble the shoes back on without the cam rollers, first the big spring then the two smaller springs, and then the last thing to do was use a 16" adjustable on the roller ends to pull the shoes up or down and gingerly place the roller in its seat. Did a million this way and never had any problems.

 

[shoggoth80]

How do you reassemble with the punch? I just can't picture that being easy. The brake tool gives leverage to get the main spring back in. I too assemble without the cam rollers, and then use an adjustable to pry up the shoe. Works like a charm. It just doesn't seem safe to me without using the proper tool. Working fleet/hourly, even if the punch method was faster, it wouldn't serve me very well. Lol.

 

[Coffepwrd]

Lots of good advice from everybody here, but I figured I would throw some different stuff at you from another perspective. I'm a former truck dealership and fleet tech, but now I work at a community college that serves a huge veteran population. Have you checked into Vocational Rehabilitation benefits? I'm not sure what the eligibility requirements are to obtain them, but I know from talking with a friend of mine who is a Voc Rehab counselor, and talking with many of my students, that if you get approved for voc rehab they will provide anything you need for school. And I mean anything. Tools, laptops, books, diagnostics, etc. They may not buy you $15k worth of Snap On stuff, but they will hook you up with most or all you need to start a new life and career. Here at my school we have a VA funded program called Vet Success on Campus (VSOC) that could be very helpful to you. You may not have one at your campus, but I would check this website out and see if there is an office anywhere close to you and reach out the VSOC counselor there for help/guidance https://www.ebenefits.va.gov/ebenefits/vsoc . I know VSOC helps a ton of students at my campus.

Now, on to the tools. As a tech, the biggest items I used were 3/8" impact wobble (universal) sockets. I used them for almost everything and very rarely used a hand ratchet. I bought all impact sockets, and all from Grey Pneumatic (GP) brand. I have shallow and deep, 1/4"-1/2" drive, regular and universal, standard and metric. They are Taiwanese, but I swear to you I have never used any better sockets. They are impact grade, thin walled, carry a lifetime warranty, and I have only broken like 3 of them in my career. Most tool trucks and almost all truck parts stores carry them, so in your field warranty wouldn't be any issue. And they are reasonably priced. As an alternative, Sunex are pretty much the same design/style/quality/price. Get a good IR or Snap On 3/8" and 1/2" impacts, and a good 3/8" air ratchet and 3/4" impact. You SHOULD use air or cordless tools as much as possible. Just learn to control them and you will be fine. I bought all of my 3/4" and 1" sockets used. You can find them on Ebay, Craigslist, and Flea Markets all day long for cheap money. If you are going to be in the diesel field, you will need a set of four way angle wrenches. I have Snap On and they are awesome. One of the few things I purchased from the school Snap On program because of the 30 and 60 degree offset (most angle wrenches have one end with the same 15 degree offset that all combo wrenches have; Snap On is the only one I have found with 30 and 60 degree ends, which come in super handy in tight spots). And 12 point sockets are pretty useless-borrow then buy the individuals when you run into them. Keep in mind the old adage, though: If you have to borrow a tool three times, you need to buy your own.

The Matco student discount is awesome, and when I was in Diesel College I bought a ton of stuff from them. My Cornwell guy also let me buy stuff off the truck at student discount, so check with the tool guys if possible.

Dude.. i've talked with at least 4 department of labor counselors, 3 Navy career counselors, another 3 VA reps and I've never heard of this program. I will look into it. I'm going into a very small community college back home in Oregon.. but good news is im in Virginia and there's soo many people I can get a hold of before I get out. Thanks for that info!

 

[Tim37]

I wouldn't buy the SO right now go buy some decent quality stuff that will get you through school. Look for sales and also used. Once you get in to your career then you can replace those as they wear with higher end stuff.
If you buy that SO set now then find you don't use half of it and also a chance that you land in a place with no dealer or worse end up with a ***** for a dealer. Once you start working build your boxs a piece at a time it will take a few years but not having much dept is nice.

 

[jwsia]

My only advise was stated a few times above. By your SAE stuff used. You can find lightly used high end brand SAE for really cheap if you look around. Sounds like you have a good set to get you started now look for good deals down the road when you upgrade. Good luck and thank you for your service.

 

[Ruger_556]

How do you reassemble with the punch? I just can't picture that being easy. The brake tool gives leverage to get the main spring back in. I too assemble without the cam rollers, and then use an adjustable to pry up the shoe. Works like a charm. It just doesn't seem safe to me without using the proper tool. Working fleet/hourly, even if the punch method was faster, it wouldn't serve me very well. Lol.

You don't, I only use the punch for tear down. I use this for installing the springs when going back together http://shop.braketechtools.com/Air-Brake-Anchor-Spring-Pliers-for-ArvinMeritor-BC-100-ABASP-2008.htm

Trying to remove/install rollers with the return spring in place always seemed like the unsafe way to me I know lots of people that do it that way but I don't like reaching under the brake shoe while prying against the spring.

 

[shoggoth80]

I keep my fingers as far outta there as I can. I put the rollers in by holding on to the end of the little retaining clip, and then swing that into place once the shoe is down. Doing it that way also guarantees that you did't pinch the keeper between the shoe, and cam.

 

[techenthusiast]

Why not just drop the linings, it only takes a minute (literally)

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[klitzke]

Howdy there! I see you got some ratchets! The masterforce is a quality brand for not a lotta cash.

I'm in the last stretch of my tech school run as an A&P student. I've found that there are a few tools the aviation field as well as automotive benefit from as far as quality goes. I've experienced and gotten the advice in a variety of scenarios.

Snap on ratchets are worth it even at full price. As a professional you can bet that these will help make your living and do it without fail.

I'm not really a purist sort like some, but Pay whatever you have to for some decent ratchets. Everything else can be a little bit of a compromise.

In summary, pay well for what you use most and enjoy it! Good lucl


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[shoggoth80]

I was taught to do air brakes following a pretty specific set of steps. Lol. It works, I'm hourly, it's safe enough...so why change it?

If the OP finds himself doing air brake work a lot, I would suggest making a tool for supplying air to unmounted cans (if you have to cut yours down to proper length).

 

[techenthusiast]

I was taught to do air brakes following a pretty specific set of steps. Lol. It works, I'm hourly, it's safe enough...so why change it?

If the OP finds himself doing air brake work a lot, I would suggest making a tool for supplying air to unmounted cans (if you have to cut yours down to proper length).

Or you can just use the cager that comes with all cans

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[redshed]

First of all, you are getting some great advice. I spent some time in Heavy Duty Diesel Mechanic School. My instructor at South Seattle Community College had a lot of influence on what I purchased for tool. Fred had 30 years’ experience as a HD Mechanic, so he gave the students of list of tools they needed. I still have my classroom notes from 1983 … your question motivated me to pull out a make a list. We’ll call it “Fred’s List”:
Circa 1983, everything was SAE, there wasn’t much metric in HD equipment jobsite at that time.
Fred list, in order of priority:
Starter Set:
Pocket Tools (carry them on you at all times)
1) Combination Wrench’s 3/8”, 7/16”, ‘1/2”, 9/16”, 5/8”, ‘3/4” (legacy craftsman panel style)
2) 447 Side Cutters – Channel Lock w/ 30 Degree
3) 420 Channel Locks
4) Screwdriver (#2 one end, regular blade on the other end) – Exolite (likely no longer made)
5) One 2 cell flashlight
5) 6” adjustable wrench
6) One 6 foot tape measure w/ small blade on white background
Portable Tool Box Set:
7) Hip Roof 22” x 7” inch metal tool box with metal tray - any quality brand
8) 8”, 10”and 12” Crescent Wrench (black finish if outdoors so they don’t get hot) – any quality brand
9) Proto 3/8” Drive Ratchet (now the classic large pear head, not fine tooth count)
Note: Always have rebuild kit in your tool box (especially remote jobs)
10) 3/8” drive deep sockets (12 point) – 3/8” to 15/16” - Any quality brand
11) 3/8” drive extensions 2”, 4” & 6” – Any quality brand
12) 3/8 In Drive T-Handle – Any Quality Brand
12) 16oz Ball Peen Hammer
13) 4 Lbs Hammer
14) 3 screwdrivers of your choice (example: #2 P, 3/16 & 1/4 blade)
15) 1/2” punch (any brand)
16) One Big Chisel (any brand ~ 1” diameter)
17) 17” pry bar (J style, any brand)
18) One 1” Inch Micrometer (field measurements for specs)
19) Multi-meter (first one good quality, upgrade to Fluke when you can)
19) Hacksaw w/ blade storage in handle (18, 24, 28 & 32t)
20) One Big Chisel (your choice)
21) Proto 1/2” drive ratchet (long 15” handle, not fine tooth)
22) ‘1/2” Sockets Deep Sockets (12 point) – ‘1/2” to 1 ¼ (any decent quality set)
23) ‘1/2 in Drive Extensions 2”, 4”, 6”
24) 17” long 3/8 Extension (high quality Snap On with then profile neck … for transmission removal)
25) 3/8” Drive Wobble/ Universal Joint socket set 3/8” through 15/16” 12 point
(again, for transmission removal)
26) Welding hammer & Gloves
27) 12” Pipe Wrench
28) ‘1/2 In Drive T-Handle around 18” wide
(At this point, your small tool box is full, time for a rollaway)

After you’ve landed a good paying HD Mechanic job, get your rollaway:
1) Kennedy 5 drawer top box with 3 to 5 drawer bottom rollaway (basic rollaway, small by today’s standards, Fred had one, I have the same … complemented recently with a roller cart w/ drawers and wheels to move out to the driveway as needed … @ HF for $160)
2) ‘3/4” Drive Ratchet & Sockets – ‘to 1 ¼ (Minimum), to 1½” (smatter), 2” (sharp)) … The larger sockets are not deep, just standard.
3) Proto 1/2” drive ratchet (short handle)
4) Combination Wrenches
(3/4” inch to 1 ¼” … larger sizes based on what you use frequently)
5) 3.5 AMP Milwaukie 1/2” Drill
6) Measuring Tools
7) Tap & Die Set, Easy Outs
8) Hex Bits, etc
9) 3/8” and ‘1/2 Drive shallow sockets (start w/ deep, then get shallow)

Fred made a point on tool brands, to not be too picky. If you destroy your 9/16” Craftsman socket, don’t take a 3 hour lunch going to Sears. Instead, buy a replacement socket from the next tool truck dealer that drive into the shop … be it Mac, Cornwell, or Snap On … don’t miss work, keep going. Besides, it is easier to tell the 9/16 from the 5/8 when you have a different brand.

Fred liked proto ratchets with cross hatch and Craftsman raised panel so they didn’t slip out of your oil covered hands on cold Minnesota winters. I've enjoyed my Proto ratchets over the years. They are great for older American cars and Heavy equipment. However, I’ve added a couple of fine tooth ratchets with a variety of head types which are nice for working in tighter spaces of today’s Honda’s and Mini Coopers.

Some of the best advise you are getting great advise to not to have a few thousand dollar “Snap On Tool” bill when you get out of school. For SAE stuff, I totally agree with earlier input to check out Pawn Shops, Craigs List, Garages Sales, etc. You can get a nice Proto 3/8” and 1/2 “ Drive SAE set with the old school pear head in a 36 tooth for with a full complement of sockets, breaker bars, extensions and so on for less than a couple of hundred dollars. Dig through a tub of combination wrenches and pick up some USA Made Craftsman Combination Panel Wrenches for fifty cents to a buck each. My experience with metric is there isn’t much quality product available used, so you'll need to complement the used ratchets above with some new metric sockets (3/8 in drive 8mm to 19mm, ‘1/2 in drive 13 to 22mm, 24, 27, 30, 32 and 36MM ). My instruction said he didn’t buy impact sockets, instead he used his everyday sockets for his impact wrench. That was 1982, today you can get a nice set of impact sockets for $50 at Harbor Freight which seems wiser.

I’d check to see if Snap On is your only option, back in 1983, the tool sets offered to me varied from Craftsman for a $200, Mac for $400 and Snap On for $600. It sounded mandatory for you to get the Snap On … certainly good tools, but not a good habit to have credit line with your snap on dealer. Pay cash for your tools and you’ll like them a lot more! Like Clint Eastwood said in the movie Grand Torino with his pegboard full of tools as a backdrop, “I spent a lifetime working at the Ford Factory to collect all those tools on that wall.”
My career moved me into an office job 28 years ago, however over the years I built up a I have built a full complement of Proto ratchets, Craftsman wrenches, Channel Lock pliers because of my teachers influence. He was definitely right about getting your deep sockets first because you’ll put a short extension on your shallow sockets all the time. To this day I use my deep sockets for everything first, only if needed do I reach for my shallow sockets.

I enjoyed reading the current HD Mechanic instructor who provided circa 2015 input on what you need (30 years later, the list has changed a bit).

Enjoy your recent purchase of new tools, enjoy your new career.

 

[flmng42]

I didn't want to give the wrong impression, I am not a diesel instructor. I work at a community college in the academic services area now, sort of a second life after turning wrenches professionally. The college I work at doesn't have anything nearly resembling a trade program, though I desperately wish it did.

If you have any more questions about the VA VSOC program, benefits, or anything else, PM me and I will do my best to help you out. And also if you have any other tool type questions. Good luck, and thanks for your service!

 

[shoggoth80]

No. In order to cage the new cans, as far as I know...you supply air, cage, measure, mark, release, then cut. When they're on the vehicle, air, cage, release, unbolt. I do a few sets a month, and this tends to be the gross order of operations. On the other hand we have 30 inch cans...and we cut to length. Private sector/civilian might be a little different, as it's possible to buy the correct/ specific length can? I don't get that choice
.

 

[techenthusiast]

No. In order to cage the new cans, as far as I know...you supply air, cage, measure, mark, release, then cut. When they're on the vehicle, air, cage, release, unbolt. I do a few sets a month, and this tends to be the gross order of operations. On the other hand we have 30 inch cans...and we cut to length. Private sector/civilian might be a little different, as it's possible to buy the correct/ specific length can? I don't get that choice
.

I guess your method is a little different, I normally work on brake cans a few times a week sometimes more as a fleet tractor trailer mechanic (I'm still new though)

I was taught a bit differently

As far as supplying air to a 30/30 can off the truck or trailer in order to cut the threaded rod to size, I've never done that, I just use the caging tool with my 1/2 impact and extra deep 3/4 socket to fully cage the can, takes about 30 seconds and ive got a caged can ready to cut

As far as caging a can before removal on a tractor or trailer, i always just cage it the same way, without air

The only times I've used air is if I'm doing all cans at once on a trailer, then I'll send shop air through a gladhand adapter to the parking side and I can just go underneath and throw on all the caging tools at once without having to gun them on

If I'm just changing a service side diaphragm on a trailer then I'll hook up shop air to both gladhands, throw on my caging tool and throw a vice grip on the threaded rod up against the can to hold the service application and then I can drop all air to the trailer and split the can

I don't even think caging the parking side is necessary for that job though since you're not opening the air lines... As long as you've got air to the parking brake theres no reason to cage it since there's no reason to take the air away

If there's a second guy and a service diaphragm needs to change on a tractor, we just air it up, chock a wheel and release the parking brake then he can just step the service brake and I put my vice grip on the threaded rod , then split the can and so on

Do you remove cans to change service diaphragms????

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[shoggoth80]

I was taught to cage with air supplied. Not positive if cashing without air presents longevity issues. We don't service them. We R&R, then recycle.

 

[yossarian19]

For diesel / heavy equip, I'd think 3/8 - 3/4 stuff.
Ebay is your best friend.
Craftsman's higher end stuff is great, as are their impact socket sets.
I wouldn't buy a damn thing off a tool truck if you can help it.
Ingersol-Rand's basic 231 gun is a great 1/2" impact. Quiet tools and crazy powerful ones are nice but so are ones that last 30 years and cost under $200. Being a heavy equipment guy, you are going to have a 3/4 gun anyway so why go nuts on the 1/2"?
Again - Ebay is your friend. Craigslist, too.
Don't go too far into debt over it.
I managed as a mechanic paying cash for everything for a few years. I lost the job, changed trades & didn't lose my *** or give back any tools over it.
Y'know what's worth going into a lot of debt for? A master's degree in science, tech, engineering or math. If you do it standing up, it probably doesn't pay enough (note "probably") to get $50,000 deep into it.

 

[redshed]

NP ... it was me who assumed you were the heavy equipment instructor ... intent is the starter tools ... 3/8 and 1/2" drive range ... there is so much more in way of affordable air tools now compared to 30 years ago. I wrench on the weekends today, spend the work days crunching numbers and leading people. Today, it seems like anything over 1 1/4" or 32 MM" is all going to be impact socket sets. That is really nice, having all that automation in our garages today.

 

[shoggoth80]

Oh. For what it is worth... at work, my 3/4" drive stuff is a mix of Blackhawk, and Wright (ratchets 24"), Proto, and Snap On (sockets and impacts), and Snap-On, Precision (torque wrenches). The big stuff isn't cheap. For a starter set, I think Astro makes a really nice 3/4" set (ratchet and sockets). Our 3/4" guns are pretty much all Ingersoll. If you can get in somewhere where they issue the bulk of the big stuff, go for it. If not, do what you can to save money... because ouch. I want 3/4" stuff for outside of work, and my wallet still cries at the more affordable stuff.

 

[Coffepwrd]

First of all, you are getting some great advice. I spent some time in Heavy Duty Diesel Mechanic School. My instructor at South Seattle Community College had a lot of influence on what I purchased for tool. Fred had 30 years’ experience as a HD Mechanic, so he gave the students of list of tools they needed. I still have my classroom notes from 1983 … your question motivated me to pull out a make a list. We’ll call it “Fred’s List”:
Circa 1983, everything was SAE, there wasn’t much metric in HD equipment jobsite at that time.
Fred list, in order of priority:
Starter Set:
Pocket Tools (carry them on you at all times)
1) Combination Wrench’s 3/8”, 7/16”, ‘1/2”, 9/16”, 5/8”, ‘3/4” (legacy craftsman panel style)
2) 447 Side Cutters – Channel Lock w/ 30 Degree
3) 420 Channel Locks
4) Screwdriver (#2 one end, regular blade on the other end) – Exolite (likely no longer made)
5) One 2 cell flashlight
5) 6” adjustable wrench
6) One 6 foot tape measure w/ small blade on white background
Portable Tool Box Set:
7) Hip Roof 22” x 7” inch metal tool box with metal tray - any quality brand
8) 8”, 10”and 12” Crescent Wrench (black finish if outdoors so they don’t get hot) – any quality brand
9) Proto 3/8” Drive Ratchet (now the classic large pear head, not fine tooth count)
Note: Always have rebuild kit in your tool box (especially remote jobs)
10) 3/8” drive deep sockets (12 point) – 3/8” to 15/16” - Any quality brand
11) 3/8” drive extensions 2”, 4” & 6” – Any quality brand
12) 3/8 In Drive T-Handle – Any Quality Brand
12) 16oz Ball Peen Hammer
13) 4 Lbs Hammer
14) 3 screwdrivers of your choice (example: #2 P, 3/16 & 1/4 blade)
15) 1/2” punch (any brand)
16) One Big Chisel (any brand ~ 1” diameter)
17) 17” pry bar (J style, any brand)
18) One 1” Inch Micrometer (field measurements for specs)
19) Multi-meter (first one good quality, upgrade to Fluke when you can)
19) Hacksaw w/ blade storage in handle (18, 24, 28 & 32t)
20) One Big Chisel (your choice)
21) Proto 1/2” drive ratchet (long 15” handle, not fine tooth)
22) ‘1/2” Sockets Deep Sockets (12 point) – ‘1/2” to 1 ¼ (any decent quality set)
23) ‘1/2 in Drive Extensions 2”, 4”, 6”
24) 17” long 3/8 Extension (high quality Snap On with then profile neck … for transmission removal)
25) 3/8” Drive Wobble/ Universal Joint socket set 3/8” through 15/16” 12 point
(again, for transmission removal)
26) Welding hammer & Gloves
27) 12” Pipe Wrench
28) ‘1/2 In Drive T-Handle around 18” wide
(At this point, your small tool box is full, time for a rollaway)

After you’ve landed a good paying HD Mechanic job, get your rollaway:
1) Kennedy 5 drawer top box with 3 to 5 drawer bottom rollaway (basic rollaway, small by today’s standards, Fred had one, I have the same … complemented recently with a roller cart w/ drawers and wheels to move out to the driveway as needed … @ HF for $160)
2) ‘3/4” Drive Ratchet & Sockets – ‘to 1 ¼ (Minimum), to 1½” (smatter), 2” (sharp)) … The larger sockets are not deep, just standard.
3) Proto 1/2” drive ratchet (short handle)
4) Combination Wrenches
(3/4” inch to 1 ¼” … larger sizes based on what you use frequently)
5) 3.5 AMP Milwaukie 1/2” Drill
6) Measuring Tools
7) Tap & Die Set, Easy Outs
8) Hex Bits, etc
9) 3/8” and ‘1/2 Drive shallow sockets (start w/ deep, then get shallow)

Fred made a point on tool brands, to not be too picky. If you destroy your 9/16” Craftsman socket, don’t take a 3 hour lunch going to Sears. Instead, buy a replacement socket from the next tool truck dealer that drive into the shop … be it Mac, Cornwell, or Snap On … don’t miss work, keep going. Besides, it is easier to tell the 9/16 from the 5/8 when you have a different brand.

Fred liked proto ratchets with cross hatch and Craftsman raised panel so they didn’t slip out of your oil covered hands on cold Minnesota winters. I've enjoyed my Proto ratchets over the years. They are great for older American cars and Heavy equipment. However, I’ve added a couple of fine tooth ratchets with a variety of head types which are nice for working in tighter spaces of today’s Honda’s and Mini Coopers.

Some of the best advise you are getting great advise to not to have a few thousand dollar “Snap On Tool” bill when you get out of school. For SAE stuff, I totally agree with earlier input to check out Pawn Shops, Craigs List, Garages Sales, etc. You can get a nice Proto 3/8” and 1/2 “ Drive SAE set with the old school pear head in a 36 tooth for with a full complement of sockets, breaker bars, extensions and so on for less than a couple of hundred dollars. Dig through a tub of combination wrenches and pick up some USA Made Craftsman Combination Panel Wrenches for fifty cents to a buck each. My experience with metric is there isn’t much quality product available used, so you'll need to complement the used ratchets above with some new metric sockets (3/8 in drive 8mm to 19mm, ‘1/2 in drive 13 to 22mm, 24, 27, 30, 32 and 36MM ). My instruction said he didn’t buy impact sockets, instead he used his everyday sockets for his impact wrench. That was 1982, today you can get a nice set of impact sockets for $50 at Harbor Freight which seems wiser.

I’d check to see if Snap On is your only option, back in 1983, the tool sets offered to me varied from Craftsman for a $200, Mac for $400 and Snap On for $600. It sounded mandatory for you to get the Snap On … certainly good tools, but not a good habit to have credit line with your snap on dealer. Pay cash for your tools and you’ll like them a lot more! Like Clint Eastwood said in the movie Grand Torino with his pegboard full of tools as a backdrop, “I spent a lifetime working at the Ford Factory to collect all those tools on that wall.”
My career moved me into an office job 28 years ago, however over the years I built up a I have built a full complement of Proto ratchets, Craftsman wrenches, Channel Lock pliers because of my teachers influence. He was definitely right about getting your deep sockets first because you’ll put a short extension on your shallow sockets all the time. To this day I use my deep sockets for everything first, only if needed do I reach for my shallow sockets.

I enjoyed reading the current HD Mechanic instructor who provided circa 2015 input on what you need (30 years later, the list has changed a bit).

Enjoy your recent purchase of new tools, enjoy your new career.

I just saw this post and wanna say, thanks so much for taking the time to write all this out for me! you make A LOT of great points. I am excited to get my terminal Leave going and get school started!

 

[NJHandyGuy]

Do buy your prybars from one of the truck brands though. The cheaper ones seem pretty sketchy

Disagree grab a Mayhew dominator never look back best $64 you can spend

 

[RedneckWelder]

Oh. For what it is worth... at work, my 3/4" drive stuff is a mix of Blackhawk, and Wright (ratchets 24"), Proto, and Snap On (sockets and impacts), and Snap-On, Precision (torque wrenches). The big stuff isn't cheap. For a starter set, I think Astro makes a really nice 3/4" set (ratchet and sockets). Our 3/4" guns are pretty much all Ingersoll. If you can get in somewhere where they issue the bulk of the big stuff, go for it. If not, do what you can to save money... because ouch. I want 3/4" stuff for outside of work, and my wallet still cries at the more affordable stuff.

Flea market and auctions are the place for buying the big stuff.