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Starting out, what do I need?

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Mar 13, 2024
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Hey y'all, I'm new here and new to the mechanics trade. I'm a little lost when it comes to what brand is best in terms of quality but also performance. I'm very serious about going into the trade and currently go to the NASCAR Institute, set to complete my core program in a few months and do some advanced manufacturing training through school. One of the programs I'm interested in requires real-world experience, so I'm in the process of transitioning out of Discount Tire and into a dealership. I am in a unique situation financially as opposed to most of my classmates and have a pretty large budget for tools like 20-30K. I'm not entirely sure I want to spend that much but I have a college fund for a traditional 4 year university but since I went to trade school I just have the cash sitting. Not sure what manufacturer I'm gonna end up with or if I'll go to an independent shop, but talking to recruiters I am planning on being a master tech in the next 5-7 years and kind of feel like I might as well get everything I need while I have a large discount on tools at school. That being said NTI is sponsored by Snap-On so the discount only really counts toward them, however with the crazy prices I'm sure there are some things I could buy from other manufacturers and save money even without a discount. Pretty much I want good stuff and I could spend my whole budget but don't necessarily want to either.

So in summary my questions are:

what size toolbox should I get? (I will most likely be relocating after school but that's a 1 time thing so nothing too massive)

What tools are essential?

What can I get away with not having?

Who should I buy from?

Are there any products from Snap-On in particular I should avoid? (I use Milwaukee power tools, but I have zero clue about air tools)
 
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Wrench97

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If you have access to the Snap On Student Discount
Ratchets 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2", Flex head and long handle in the grip you like, I personally prefer the chrome handle.
Chrome Sockets mid length to start.
Line Wrenches, set in Metric in SAE 3/8", 7/16"
Combo wrenches long pattern at least 10mm through 22MM + 24mm & 27MM

Long flex head ratcheting wrenches Mountain, Icon or similar branded with a decent return or at least access to single wrenches when you break one.

At least 2 sizes of Vice Grip pliers you will add and upgrade the brand later as you find what your are using and what for.

Angle cutters, slip joint and regular pliers, Irwin will work to start and again you'll upgrade later.

Torx bit sockets they all break so pick the brand you can swap out easily.

Impact Sockets 1/2" to start I/ve found Tekton & Grey pneumatic to be decent.

Start with a 3 drawer locking top cart, no matter what box you start with you will out grow it several times over your career, I'm on my 4th box, buy as decent a box as you can afford(Snap On, Matco) and it will have a decent resale value when to need to upgrade.

Do not overlook used Snap On, Mac, Matco tools and Boxes from either the tool trucks, Craigs list, FBM, pawn shops, Ebay etc.
 

BlakeTheCarGuy

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Essentials: hand tools-sockets, ratchets, wrenches, hammers, pliers. And any tools necessary to change oil in whatever brand you’re going into. Some have special tools for the oil filters or drain plugs so make sure you have them as you will start out with basic work.

Power or air tools like an impact to take wheels off and a smaller one for taking off things like skid plates.

Don’t need: special tools, fancy toolbox.
 

Steve_P

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If you have the cash, buy a used but like new Snap On box on Marketplace. Triple bay. You WILL fill it up. Where I'm at they sell for 30-50% of the new price in like-new condition, typically 30-40%, on Marketplace. This should put you at HF Icon pricing and you should be able to get parts, like slides, for a long time thru SO. I'm not a SO fan, but if this is your chosen career, and you have the $, an excellent used SO box is a solid choice.
 

yellowbox

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If you have the cash, buy a used but like new Snap On box on Marketplace. Triple bay. You WILL fill it up. Where I'm at they sell for 30-50% of the new price in like-new condition, typically 30-40%, on Marketplace. This should put you at HF Icon pricing and you should be able to get parts, like slides, for a long time thru SO. I'm not a SO fan, but if this is your chosen career, and you have the $, an excellent used SO box is a solid choice.
Good advice here , you have the cash you can negotiate a **** of a deal for a used snapon box
I would recommend 30 inch deep , a masters or epic series
Anywhere from 2k to say 5k max and you will do well
As far as tools battery powered is the way to go
Also get some impact sockets , 3/8 and 1/2 6point , forget the chrome sockets, get a few 12 point , they have their uses
Prybars , chisels, punches
Gear wrenches, stubby wrenches , offset wrenches ,also get some long 0 degree offset wrenches
Torque wrenches in all the sizes
 

AEAdam

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Didnt we just have this conversation? You don't need random advice, you need links to GJ threads and time to read. We should have stickies.

I think the big question is (for every special interest organization, hobby, profession): Should you start with starter tools and trade up, or start with pro grade tools and risk spending too much?

I would ask my friends here that question.

Second question I would ask is: At today's prices, what would a (fill in the blank) Icon, Taiwan tool set cost?

My answer to both lies chiefly in the thread I linked above. I'd buy Snap On for the stuff Snap On does best and that you will 100% need. For other stuff, maybe I'd save my money and wait and see. As a young tech starting out, I'd be buying HF toolboxes, thinking they will get beat up. I think their roll carts are a no brainer and for the prices you could be starting out with a couple boxes/carts.

Ask an old guy, having spent a lifetime with tools, I'm glad for Snap On tools and box. But it's taken me 40 years to get here.
 

ybnormal

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Essentials: hand tools-sockets, ratchets, wrenches, hammers, pliers. And any tools necessary to change oil in whatever brand you’re going into. Some have special tools for the oil filters or drain plugs so make sure you have them as you will start out with basic work.

Power or air tools like an impact to take wheels off and a smaller one for taking off things like skid plates.

Don’t need: special tools, fancy toolbox.
@Sebstiparich464@gmail

listen to what Blake here is saying as he's about the same age and already working so can probably tell you what HE uses most often.
however, that being said, the big question is, what area are you going to specialize in? electrical, electronics, transmissions, engines, general work? while you will want a basic set of tools, don't go overboard buying everything.
there's nothing wrong with buying used quality tools considering the huge price discount. listen to what @Steve_P @AEAdam and @yellowbox are saying

this may be your choice of career right now but what will you do if something changes your mind within a couple years of getting out in the real world? the kid across the street from me grad'd about 2018 and decided to go to UTI in Dallas. parents paid for it, apartment, and everything. he gets out in the real world and then less than 18 months later decides he doesn't want to be a mechanic and decides to become a car salesman instead. I haven't even asked his parents about what he did with his tools....
 

bigfunwmu

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I have a buddy who went to school to be an auto tech and did great in school. He got out of school and found out that working on every random yahoo's old and busted piece of **** kinda sucked compared to the wrenching he did on his stuff for fun. He went an entirely different way.

Take advantage of your discount, but don't break the bank. Also a lot of the discounts have a limit on what is offered and the total amount you can purchase with it. It is also possible that the place where you end up will have different requirements for tools than where you start. If it was me, I would pick up a solid set of the basics and keep most of the cash for a down payment on a house.
 

isb cornbinder

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Hey y'all, I'm new here and new to the mechanics trade. I'm a little lost when it comes to what brand is best in terms of quality but also performance. I'm very serious about going into the trade and currently go to the NASCAR Institute, set to complete my core program in a few months and do some advanced manufacturing training through school. One of the programs I'm interested in requires real-world experience, so I'm in the process of transitioning out of Discount Tire and into a dealership. I am in a unique situation financially as opposed to most of my classmates and have a pretty large budget for tools like 20-30K. I'm not entirely sure I want to spend that much but I have a college fund for a traditional 4 year university but since I went to trade school I just have the cash sitting. Not sure what manufacturer I'm gonna end up with or if I'll go to an independent shop, but talking to recruiters I am planning on being a master tech in the next 5-7 years and kind of feel like I might as well get everything I need while I have a large discount on tools at school. That being said NTI is sponsored by Snap-On so the discount only really counts toward them, however with the crazy prices I'm sure there are some things I could buy from other manufacturers and save money even without a discount. Pretty much I want good stuff and I could spend my whole budget but don't necessarily want to either.

So in summary my questions are:

what size toolbox should I get? (I will most likely be relocating after school but that's a 1 time thing so nothing too massive)

What tools are essential?

What can I get away with not having?

Who should I buy from?

Are there any products from Snap-On in particular I should avoid? (I use Milwaukee power tools, but I have zero clue about air tools)
I went with SK for two reasons. I had a friend in the SK truck and my Dad bought SK in the 1940s. SK is easier to spell then SnapOn.
If I were starting and had an chance for the SnapOn student discount, Tis is the way I would go, 100%.
This is a long term investment in yourself and the trade you chose. You will never regret buying top of the line tools. My impression of SnapOn is they have a quality edge over their competition. SnapOn will serve you for your lifetime with service. YOour SnapOn dealer will be able to advise you on what you should buy. The SO dealer is less likely to screw you over, because he will want to have your trust for a lifetime.
SK worked for me, I retired in 2004. The SK truck dealer has gone.
 

isb cornbinder

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Anybody else think the recruiter lied about being a master tech in 5-7 years?
Master Tech is not a Canadian terminology. After a completed apprenticeship of 4 years, the now mechanic is the holder of a Red Seal ID card.
I worked with a few older generation mechanics who adopted the master mechanic title. They must have been influenced by the internet. One of the most forgettable nut busters called himself an engineer. He had the foremen help to tie his boots.
 

four.cycle

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ybnormal said:
listen to what Blake here

^ this right here.

somebody just listed a set of those "Mountain" ratcheting box ends. I've never used them so I don't know if this is a good price or a bad price:
$150 OBO https://www.ebay.com/itm/315221798455

Wrench97 said:
Torx bit sockets they all break so pick the brand you can swap out easily.

I hate Torx bits. Are any of them worth a damn? Definitely not something to go cheap on because of the consequences of having one snap off. (UGH)

Keep your eye on the "Classifieds" forum here.

The Japanese make better screwdrivers than we do here in the U.S. (sorry, Snap-0n fan boys.) Some of their pliers are simply awesome (Vampire, Tsunoda, Merry)
 

Zewnten

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Taiwan in a used HF tool box and save the money for a down payment on a house, start a retirement account or for more schooling on the chance you hate working at a dealership like so many end up doing. Set yourself up for 30 years down the road when you’re busted up from work and you’ll be way ahead of investing in shiny tools.
 

AEAdam

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I hate Torx bits. Are any of them worth a damn? Definitely not something to go cheap on because of the consequences of having one snap off. (UGH)
The Snap On heavy duty torx bit sockets are the best I’ve used.
The Japanese make better screwdrivers than we do here in the U.S. (sorry, Snap-0n fan boys.) Some of their pliers are simply awesome (Vampire, Tsunoda, Merry)
There are a lot of opinions about tools here, which are generally well thought out and informed. I‘ve posted several times about fastener standards and how:

1) Different countries have different specs for standard hardware. If you know what you are working on, you can predict what tool SIZES you will need, which can help you avoid tools you won’t need.

2) Tools manufactured outside the US sometimes follow US specs, sometimes not. Know what you are buying.

Example: the Japanese screwdrivers @four.cycle may be thinking about were originally designed for Japanese screws. I believe they are better now for non Japanese hardware. Know that screwdrivers aren’t universally applicable tools.
 

four.cycle

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^ I'm not going into debates about JIS screwdrivers - I'll leave that to the experts. My understanding is that the newer designs should not be causing issues with contemporary hardware. Again - I don't profess to be an expert on that part of screwdriver design.

That said, I'll most likely never purchase another hard-handle screwdriver again. The Vessel "Ball Grip" design is a game-changer.
I have not yet gotten any feedback on the "MegaPro" sets I sent out in December, but others here thought highly of them.

AEAdam said:
I’d think long and hard about spending Snap On money for SAE/inch size tools.

I wouldn't spend any money on Snap-on SAE when there are so many other options, particularly when you're talking about 1/2" drive stuff, which is crazy cheap in the second-hand market - nobody wants it any more.

Same with pullers. Posi-Lock is the way to go. Smaller conventional two-arm pullers - go with the original Owatonna (OTC) - not too painful in the second-hand market. Pullers is most likely a "down the road" thing, though.
 

richfinn

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I think you have come to the right place.

Spend a month reading about what tools GJ members use and recommend (you will quickly figure out which members are jobbing mechanics). Use the list provided by your education program as a guide. We discuss this question a lot so I won't overwhelm you with a list of brands.

But.......

There is a whole other world of international quality and value available if you do some basic research, I think brands that concentrate on doing one thing really well is the way to go for sockets, pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches, electronics etc. but I will occasionally default to Snap-On if I think they make a better version (in my opinion).

If you do get a student discount use it wisely (on required tools and not the big fancy $$$$$$$$$ toolboxes).

Tekton sell a really nice range of toolboxes!!!! (I would buy one tomorrow if I lived in USA/Canada).
 
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Hakeem

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I have a buddy who went to school to be an auto tech and did great in school. He got out of school and found out that working on every random yahoo's old and busted piece of **** kinda sucked compared to the wrenching he did on his stuff for fun. He went an entirely different way.

Take advantage of your discount, but don't break the bank. Also a lot of the discounts have a limit on what is offered and the total amount you can purchase with it. It is also possible that the place where you end up will have different requirements for tools than where you start. If it was me, I would pick up a solid set of the basics and keep most of the cash for a down payment on a house.
This, 100% this.

Set a budget of $1000-2000 and stick to it. Get good midrange stuff to start, youll have plenty of opportunity to upgrade later on. If you decide to change careers, you’re not out tens of thousands on tools you won’t need.

A house will tend to appreciate in value. Tools generally will not.
 

AEAdam

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^ I'm not going into debates about JIS screwdrivers - I'll leave that to the experts. My understanding is that the newer designs should not be causing issues with contemporary hardware. Again - I don't profess to be an expert on that part of screwdriver design.
The point was only, there are differences between tools one should know about before purchasing. I think your screwdriver recommendation is a perfect example. Normal people probably think a screw driver is just a screwdriver. Even straight screwdrivers are made to certain specs for specific national stds.
 

AEAdam

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This, 100% this.

Set a budget of $1000-2000 and stick to it. Get good midrange stuff to start, youll have plenty of opportunity to upgrade later on. If you decide to change careers, you’re not out tens of thousands on tools you won’t need.

A house will tend to appreciate in value. Tools generally will not.
Agree with the overall sentiment, but that last sentence…I don’t see how you lose money buying Snap On with SEP pricing. Snap On tools DO appreciate with inflation, but aren’t what I’d call an investment.

If you get a good deal on a new box, you won’t lose much selling it and may make money, depending on what boxes cost when you sell.

Mid range or low range tools may be difficult to sell at all. My craftsman tools seem to be worth less than I paid in 1990.

SEP is a good deal. One idea might be to save the packaging?
I think I would not buy a full set of Snap On tools as a beginner. A nice wrench set perhaps. We’ve discussed this subject recently. Lots of good thoughts in that thread.
 

Wrench97

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Agree with the overall sentiment, but that last sentence…I don’t see how you lose money buying Snap On with SEP pricing. Snap On tools DO appreciate with inflation, but aren’t what I’d call an investment.

If you get a good deal on a new box, you won’t lose much selling it and may make money, depending on what boxes cost when you sell.

Mid range or low range tools may be difficult to sell at all. My craftsman tools seem to be worth less than I paid in 1990.

SEP is a good deal. One idea might be to save the packaging?
I think I would not buy a full set of Snap On tools as a beginner. A nice wrench set perhaps. We’ve discussed this subject recently. Lots of good thoughts in that thread.
I looked at them as the investment that paid for the house, cars, trucks, college, food..............................
 

2ndGearRubber

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Buy an off brand box. You ain't gonna be slamming drawers all day and it will give you a chance to get started with lower up front cost. If you can play with buying boxes outright and using the 60 days same as cash program snap on offers, you'll be better off doing that when the time comes.

Boxes make you money in time saved, organization, etc. You're starting out, there's enough low hanging fruit in your production abilities to not be chasing that sort of productivity. Not worth the outlay when you need tools in the first place.


The tools you need are dictated by the job. Do you plan on working with NASCAR, being you have schooling there? Are you getting a lube tech/tire job, actual apprentice, typical "sink or swim" apprentice, going right to the bay as a tech?



As a bare, bare, minimum,stored within a cart:

You need full sets of metric sockets, deep and shallow,6pt. 5-14, 8-24, 13-27. In 1/2 you can do all impact for the beginning, same with 3/8 really. 1/4 you need chrome. You need stubby, standard length, and long ratchets in all the sizes. Extensions in all sizes, and universal swivels, HF impact extensions work well. Combo wrenches 7-19, 21 22 24 27. Locking pliers, and a general plier assortment. A few flat head and Phillips drivers, a few pry bars, a hand impact driver, a caliper compressor for standard and wind back calipers, and a belt tool. 1/2 impact, buy air, way cheaper and all shops have air. A good 1/4 hex impact driver is key. Torx from t10-t70, Allen from 3mm to 12mm. Bungee straps for hanging stuff, a good light, magnetic trays for organizing, push pin pliers for plastic clips. A good DIGITAL air chuck is required. A 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrench, you want the 3/8 to go down near 5 ft/lb. You need a valve stem tool, and a tread depth gauge.

I'd add a basic meter and test light, nothing fancy, but that's my preference. People.wait too long to think about electrical. The above are the basics I can think of off the top of my head to do very basic entry level work.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Wanted to add something else -

$100. Notice I didn't include 1/4 drive SAE, for something like a hose clamp. With $100 in the tool box, NAPA will deliver that. Some of the more common stuff that is readily available but not daily use you can pick up as needed from even a local parts store, buy on amazon, etc. You can be in a situation where you need something, and so long as your financial house is in order you can easily overcome.
 

shafferds

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Buy use when you can and save a ton of money. Put that saved money in nice money market account at 5% nowadays. Enjoy the field. You will find what works and doesn't for you real quick. Get comfortable shoes and clothes. Good eye and ear protection. Learn from the old school mechanics. They can teach you tips and tricks you'll never learn in school. The electronic computer stuff is where the cars are going.
 

NYBODYMAN

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If you have cash, buy a nice used box, which can also be had from a Snap On dealer. Also, many other manufacturers offer student discounts. Check their websites. The rest has already been answered. I went to a tech school for auto body and got an Associates Degree. I went to work for 10 years and then went a completely different direction. While I understand buying tools while the discount is valid, take your time and buy essentials first. Then as you work, see what tools the other techs have and compile a list. Then start buying those tools on an as needed basis. I was taught quickly that if I borrow it once, then I need to buy my own.
 

cannuck

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. One of the most forgettable nut busters called himself an engineer. He had the foremen help to tie his boots.
Suggests maybe he really was an engineer.

to OP: definitely buy as much used, and since you are in SO world that is what to go with and get student discount stuff to complete. As mentioned above somewhere: seriously consider used 30" box - you WILL need the space and it fist big stuff a 24 won't. Best of luck in new career.
 
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four.cycle

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I need to make a note to remind myself:

Have CASH on hand on Friday and Saturday.
Check Craigslist "tool" listings on Friday and Saturday night.

I missed a Craftsman top and bottom cabinet last night - looked like it was in great condition - $60 bucks for both pieces. Only had $47 and change on me at 7:30 pm.

No reason to spend thousands of dollars on a box.

YMMV

I would not have mentioned this at all, but this is about the fifth or sixth time I've missed out on some KILLER deal on a weekend because somebody on CL decided they needed fast cash for something, and I was shy cash. (I do not use ATM machines.)
The one deal I did snag - years ago - was an almost complete set of Craftsman metric combos, a ratchet, and a few metric wobbly sockets - all for $27. (The guy needed money for cigarettes at 11:00 pm on a Saturday night.)
 

mixerfixer

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I am a master tech and a mentor tech for a Cat dealer. The company I work for has an excellent apprenticeship program. You start as an apprentice and you take all kinds of in person off site training. You are required to do 4 hours per week of paid online training on your own. Inbetween, you are working in the shop, sometime helping other techs on bigger jobs, sometimes on your own job. You are surrounded by people to answer any questions you may have as we have several mentor techs in my shop. In 15 months you graduate to a B tech. Pay is hourly, no flat rate and working on equipment generally pays better per hour than automotive or heavy truck. Its a tremendous opportunity for someone who wants to learn.

As far as tooling, even big and small equipment has limited access. I am a heavy user of everything from the Astro Nano series. I own and use daily all the different Nano sockets, Nano air impact wrenches and impact swivels. The Nano stuff makes options I haven't found in any other tool line. I use alot of the Astro Onyx series die grinders and cut off tools also. I have had zero issues with any of it and they are budget friendly up front.

As far as tool truck brands go, I own some of all of them, the bulk of which lately has been purchased used off of ebay for the right price. Alot of my tools are older USA made SK up to 1 1/2" but i am not brand loyal, My mainline most used everyday stuff is brand name though. Nobody makes the best of everything, I cherry pick the better stuff out of alot of the 2nd tier tool lines. I have Wright, Tekton, Gearwrenech, ATD, Sunex and Icon. My bigger than 1 1/2" wrenches, mostly used for hydraulic lines, are Harbor Freight. My stategy has always been to buy something middle of the road quality and see how much I use it. You will be surprised how little you use most tools. If I break or wear out a particular wrench or socket, I will replace that piece with something that is better quality. It is very rare that I break a tool though. Also being a Cat dealer tech you have access to the entire line of Caterpillar branded tools made by Snap On and Williams at cost.
 

scooby074

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If you can get on the SO program, get their ratchet sets 1/4 and 3/8. Id avoid their sockets, at least at this time,unless you got money to burn. Get the hard handle screwdrivers. Deadblow ballpein set. 3pc HD Pliers set. I like SO's rechargable lighting. Torque angle torque wrenches. Do not get a box, at least not a new one from SO. Sockets, wrenches, allen keys and other tools like air tools can be had for better pricing from other manufacturers. You likely wont lose a ratchet, but you will lose sockets! Doesnt hurt so much when theyre not SO. Down the road you can always buy SO to replace the cheaper brands if you want. Dont go too deep in dept.
 

AEAdam

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The community colleges here have suggested tool lists for their students. If you're at the NASCAR institute, I would think they would have the same. Have you looked to see if they do?

I‘ve looked into such lists in the past including those from other trades. They are sometimes outdated, including tools many of us wouldn’t consider essential, and, more importantly, missing tools many of us feel ARE essential. I think the various lists on GJ, and the tool box tours in some ways present better information on basic tool sets.

That said, I am a little surprised any automotive student would think to ask a forum such as this a question their school/instructor should be answering.
 

bobg03

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A very good friend of my son is on a NASCAR pit team, he is one of the tire guys. As a young man in HS he was the mechanic for his fathers open wheel modified at 3 local tracks. Smart kid too, hasn't done much wrenching since hiring on a crew, spends his spare time bow hunting big game and physical fitness challenges.

OP I don't know how old you are, but from your description you're at a Discount Tire and y'all got some $$, you never know if this is truly your future calling after schooling and while I agree with buying quality tools, I'd think twice before buying all that you can and having the big flashy tool box fresh out of school. Buy the good basics and a quality box to start, don't let that money burn a hole in your pocket before you're done with school and actually have a job you like and want to stay at.

You look smarter to your new coworkers having the basic amount of good quality tools in a decent used or lower value box.

If on the slim chance you own/drive a squatted 4WD pickup or SUV with low profile AT tires, let your own conscience guide you. :cool: :ROFLMAO:
 
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rust in the eye

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My thoughts:
First and foremost don't get sucked into the ******* match of gigantic tool chests(you'll then feel obligated to fill)and status brands, you know what I mean.
If at all possible don't go in debt at all, especially as this may not wind up being a career.
Only you will know the tools required for your particular jobs. Single brand dealership work will narrow the needs a bit. Good advice above about not spending big on SAE size tools that will see little to no use at a new car dealership. Another kernel of wisdom another member here once said was buy what you can afford, if it fails buy better.
Be the best diagnosic guy in the shop and nobody will make fun of your tools if they didn't all cost a fortune. You'll be eating steak while the indebted ones are having hamburger helper.
Good luck!
 

four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,585
Location
Tacoma, Washington
FTR: one-inch diameter "inspection mirrors" are a joke.
Find a larger diameter mirror - 1-1/2" at least.
Find one with a HEXAGONAL telescoping shaft so the business end of it doesn't swivel around when you bump it into the exhaust system while under the vehicle.

HERE -
buy two. they're cheap. somebody on here just dropped and broke his the other day.
just sayin'.

** when purchasing from Cripe Distributing, you may find it easier to "shop" on their ebay store (or not), but do your BUYING directly from their website - use the secret code for the discount - no sales tax - buy lots of stuff because you'll be paying shipping.
 
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NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,867
Location
Northern Central Ohio
It's been 5 days since the OP has started this thread and not posted back, yet has come back to the forum. A new member asking a question like this should be a bit more involved with those offering him some help.

I have a feeling this is going to be a one hit wonder and wondered as much when it was in the Moderator Approval Queue.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,585
Location
Tacoma, Washington
@NUTTSGT -
When I first saw the thread, it was only the first post.
My initial reaction was that it was somebody's "AI" experiment.
That was the reason I posted the link to Blake's thread about the "student discount" program.
as @AEAdam noted in his post (post #7): "Didn't we just have this conversation?"

I become more skeptical about these threads every time another one pops up.
In the flurry of all the activity, I hadn't even noticed that the O/P never responded.
Maybe that's the "sniff test" they need to pass?

Just my two cents.
 
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