Starting Spark Plug with Rubber Hose
- Thread starter peejay75
- Start date
5ubtle
Well-known member
How many times do you think the plug will turn before it gets "as tight as it will go"?
It was hard to judge, it felt loose and wobbly, until it didn't, I'd venture 6-10 turns? (The plug went in ok, I was just wondering how would I KNOW that I didn't cross-thread it).
I guess if it were going in wrong, the hose would start to slip "sooner than it should" (dare I say, almost immediately) rather than later?
I think you need a tighter fit on the plug if you can't tell
WWheeler
Well-known member
You need a hose that grips onto the plug pretty tight and is straight. If the hose is loose on the plug and/or curved you lose that tactile feel you need to be able to feel it catch the thread and spin it in and not try to crossthread. I had an old piece of 3/8 fuel line that worked perfect for me for decades. Not sure what happened to it.
I just recently picked up this and it's perfect.
I just recently picked up this and it's perfect.
Got it! Feel! Your "new tool arrivals" post of that device and the poster who mentioned the dowel in the hose is what made me finally try it, before I had always rolled the dice using the spark plug socket from start to finish.
Thanks, all!
(My blended solution was 3/8 hose with a plastic rod inside for rigidity).
Thanks, all!
(My blended solution was 3/8 hose with a plastic rod inside for rigidity).
Attachments
Last edited:
iagsxr
Well-known member
So start it with your hose. Then take a socket and extension with your fingers and back it off a turn or so.
If it's cross threaded it will come free immediately. If not you'll be able to run it in slightly farther by hand than with the hose.
If it's cross threaded it will come free immediately. If not you'll be able to run it in slightly farther by hand than with the hose.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
Just buy stove bolt 6 Chevys from now on. Super easy access to the plugs.
5ubtle
Well-known member
As iagsxr suggested, check for cross-threading by "backing off" half a turn and pulling out. This can be done with the hose.
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
I use rubber vacuum line for Subaru spark plugs. The rubber line seems easier to me for the boxer engine. You get a feel of how snug it is when turning.
For my Honda's with 4 cylinder straight, a magnetic socket with integral extension works for me.
I don't use a socket with a rubber insert, one time the rubber stayed on the plug and was hard to remove. Using a magnet socket with an integral extension, nothing should come apart.
I have both of these. For home use they have been fine. With 100k intervals, they don't get a lot of use.
For my Honda's with 4 cylinder straight, a magnetic socket with integral extension works for me.
I don't use a socket with a rubber insert, one time the rubber stayed on the plug and was hard to remove. Using a magnet socket with an integral extension, nothing should come apart.
I have both of these. For home use they have been fine. With 100k intervals, they don't get a lot of use.
Last edited:
JoeMcGov
Well-known member
I always start the spark plug with a spark plug socket with rubber insert (sorta kinda like a rubber hose). Inserting the plug ever so lightly into the rubber insert. Run it in a few turns and pull the socket off. Then use a regular deep socket to run it all the way down and torque it (calibrated elbow torque) and come right off the plug. Easy-peasy.
Pontiac787
Well-known member
If it went 6-10 turns I highly doubt it is cross threaded. Put a socket on it and it if tightens up smoothly you’re good to go.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Well, I was surprised by the word "always". I guess though a lot of cars nowadays would require something.
Years ago, I "always" don't use any tools at all to start a spark plug. Once in a great while, yes, you'd see a car that really requires a rubber hickey on ONE PLUG but the other 7 you don't need it. Once I started having cars with tubes in the valve covers, they were always straight on and no obstructions overhead is the norm. You couldn't physically turn the plug because of the depth of the hole on those. I just use the socket. I guess that is the norm now.
You know, it can be hard to get a plug lined up straight, but I'm not sure cross threading one is realistic. Has anybody ever actually cross-threaded one?
MovingAlong
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2013
- Messages
- 1,213
You didn't torque a cross-threaded plug down 6-10 turns with a hose slipped over the end...
Clamp a nut in a vise (you can buy ones that fit sparkplugs) and just try cross-threading a plug on purpose. Best way to develop a feel for "good" is to know what "bad" feels like.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
You aren't going to cross thread a spark plug hole with the torque available through a piece of rubber hose.
whateg01
Well-known member
I use the 3/8 hose most of the time but I also have a couple old plug wires with straight boots that I use for the same purpose. Also helpful removing the plugs because my plug sockets no longer have the rubber inside them.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
My dad broke one off bigger than hell in his '82 CJ-8 Scrambler about 1983-84 and he is still pissed off that he did it.
I've pulled heads off because spark plugs were cross threaded, so people manage.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I have never used a hose to start a spark plug, I just hold it in the socket and spin it with my fingers to start it. Never had any issues. I can tell you it's hard to start my pressure transducer leads into spark plug holes so I imagine a 10" long hose on a plug would be a PITA. Unless you're just talking about old pushrod domestic engines.
WWheeler
Well-known member
I've not crossthreaded plugs myself, but have done many repairs where others have. It's definitely a common thing.
I've installed time-serts to repair spark plug threads at least a dozen times before, probably closer to twice that, and around half of those were on Hondas for some reason (Honda drain plugs too, a many many). I've also done them on motorcycles and lawnmowers. Even plugs that are very easy to get to are not immune from someone crossthreading the **** out of them. Aluminum threads can be very unforgiving.
It's made me respect how easy it is to do and that's why I always use a hose to start them. It's cheap/quick insurance.
Last edited:
whateg01
Well-known member
I bet more likely carbon buildup, but yeah it CAN happen
Again, thanks all!
More backstory, in this specific use-case, I am replacing the plugs on a Nissan V6 engine, and the LH bank of plugs is BURIED under the intake manifold, so no direct line-of-sight. When doing the middle plug today, I started with the hose, but something felt "squishy" so I went with the long swivel plug socket, but the "squishiness" was still there. Can't tell if it was a wiring harness, or the plug making contact with the wall near the plug hole and compressing the hose/rubber insert in the socket. At any rate, I remained patient and eventually got the plug in using the long socket.
More backstory, in this specific use-case, I am replacing the plugs on a Nissan V6 engine, and the LH bank of plugs is BURIED under the intake manifold, so no direct line-of-sight. When doing the middle plug today, I started with the hose, but something felt "squishy" so I went with the long swivel plug socket, but the "squishiness" was still there. Can't tell if it was a wiring harness, or the plug making contact with the wall near the plug hole and compressing the hose/rubber insert in the socket. At any rate, I remained patient and eventually got the plug in using the long socket.
rust in the eye
Well-known member
Some of the thread damage occurs on removal too. I've learned to be very careful with aluminum heads and never remove plugs from a hot engine ever since having a **** clenching moment with a Ferarri V12 when one of it's plugs fought and came out wearing some aluminum.
You win, and in comparison, I was making a mountain out of a mole hill!
RTM
Well-known member
Not me personally, but one of my highschool buddies did. Put it on with the socket, and drove it home with the ratchet. He tried to drive it, "felt funny" then called me. 1974ish Dodge Duster.
I looked at it, even with the wire on, it looked badly off, sticking out, and angled.
Forget what it cost for a pro to fix it back then.
Jweebothee
Well-known member
Honest question, I only work on Subaru, honda and Toyota. What situation do you need a hose or any spark plug starter that you can’t use the socket/extention you used to remove it? Thanks for the lesson haha
Same situation. I only work on Japanese vehicles primarily but I've noticed on some American V8s some of the spark plugs are damn near impossible to access (cough Dodge).
Picture you take a hard to access spark plug out with a extension and a swivel socket. Trying to get the new one started with the same equipment might cause you to cross thread it since its more difficult to get a feel for how its going in initially (even if you rotate the extension by hand because of the angle & lack of access). The intent of the rubber hose is so you can have a nice flexible tool to hold the plug via friction while you start it by hand and once its in you switch to the other tools to torque it down to specification.
Aren’t there a variety of spark plug sockets with retention features? I have a magnetic one that works pretty well. I think there’s an interference one. Even the old rubber bushing models worked until they didn’t.
This being GJ, there should be reference to a specialty tool @oldschoolcraft needs to buy.
This being GJ, there should be reference to a specialty tool @oldschoolcraft needs to buy.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Champion spark plug has made a rubber plug inserting tool for at least the last 40 years, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHACT700, and they work great. I bought five of them from NAPA and cut them down to different lengths for different situations. If the plug is in 5 turns already they is no fricking way you're cross threaded so forget about that nonsense.
rooster59
Well-known member
Stubby philips with a short piece of hose. Helps to line the spark plug up square.
Forgot to mention locking wobble extensions. Another must have tool so you don’t need to resort to the rubber hose! Hear that @oldschoolcraft ?
I particular like the fact that, in the product description section, they felt they needed to add:
Completion of job needs a torque wrench (not included)
TWICE!
“Hey honey, got the spark parts swapped on the Audi! It was really easy. Did the whole job with a $4 tools from NAPA!” “Wait, I need what?”
JABgj
Well-known member
Don't forget a turkey baster for small suctioning or dispensing jobs and aluminum foil to form a guide for liquids or keeping oil off of exhaust or frame parts during service.
I have learned that in a pinch, the best tool can be a spray bottle top. Remove from windex, empty tube etc, clear the spark plug tube; or the power steering.... etc.
mrjaw14
Well-known member
I have these as well and like them. hose of the right size will work too. If the threads are crusty I use a plug thread chaser to clean them out. nice clean threads make it easier to use the hose trickYou need a hose that grips onto the plug pretty tight and is straight. If the hose is loose on the plug and/or curved you lose that tactile feel you need to be able to feel it catch the thread and spin it in and not try to crossthread. I had an old piece of 3/8 fuel line that worked perfect for me for decades. Not sure what happened to it.
I just recently picked up this and it's perfect.
(I gotta add again, I really appreciate the conversation (jokes), and useful tips, tricks and tool recommendations! I look forward to when I can return to my jeep/amc 258 I6 project, and the fun:stress ratio can tip more towards my favor!)
vssjim
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Exactly what I do every day have them all different sizes from full length to short pieces and they are cheap been using this newer style since they came out even have the old style from 40 plus years ago also