Steel barn build- window and door install question

[hellspcangel911]

Hi All,
Still in the process of building a steel barn and ran into two issues that I cant quite find an answer for. The door and window openings are framed out with 4" x 6" Cee profile steel jambs and my wall sheeting has high ribs that are .85" deep.
1. When I install the insulation it gets sandwiched between the structure and and the exterior sheeting. How do I install or flash it around the windows? My windows have a 1 3/8" flange, do I install that directly to the jamb with some flashing behind it, then run the insulation under the flashing and J-channel over the flange? I'm not sure how thick the R-15 (4") fiberglass will compress to and if the windows will need to be shimmed out so the Jchannel trim pieces flush everything together vs looking like the windows are recessed.

2. the door and window openings were designed to match each other, so the adjacent doors and windows had the jamb headers at the same heights. The detailer messed up and I didnt catch. The building is setup using the window rough openings and nominal door slab sizes (36"x80"). Aside from the obvious custom door option, I can go with 34" doors and move the headers up from 80" to 82". But this is is where I get confused. Would my J channel trim end at 80" or 82" - I'm trying to figure out how much to move the windows up so it all lines up. The same holds true for the 36" wide window thats supposed to be above a 36"wide door so the side jambs run plumb.

Thanks for all your help, gives me back some sanity.

 

[readhead]

Another victim of ACT bad plans. You can move the girts to get the windows where you want them. Install J trim around the windows and you may want to do some layout for the best rib placement. Another option is to remove the fins on the windows and set them in the framing and caulk them in like commercial store front windows. The insulation will compress at the J trim so need to worry about thickness. Put double stick tape around the windows openings to keep the vinyl tight. Don’t forget to run the eave trim long to the face of the gable sheets. Make sure and check all the trim to make sure you have enough. Check the corner trim for consistent forming so the laps match. Good luck.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Hey Andy, yup the ACT disaster... trying to get through it. Thanks for the response, helpful as always. Is it a bad idea to compress the insulation under the window flange? what do you normally put around the window?

Can you explain "run the eave trim long to the face of the gable sheets"

 

[readhead]

The windows and J trim should be installed before the insulation and siding. If the window flanges are wide enough you can install two screws in the top flange, install the J trim at the bottom and sides through the flanges, pull the screws in the top and install the top trim.

The rake trim will be installed against the face of the end wall sheets. You will want to run the eave trim, the first piece of the roof, about 1” past the rake angle, the angle that the top of the end wall that the sheets screw to, so that the eave trim will end right behind the rake trim.

 

[hellspcangel911]

understood, thank you for suggesting it and clarifying. Needless to say the documentation leaves a lot to be desired.
I'm still unclear on the best practice for the door trim. a RO for a door is roughly 2" more than nominal. If I go with a 36" wide door, a 38" RO, Should I expect the J channel to cover most of the frame leaving like a 1/4" reveal so the space between the J would be 36 1/2"? I havent gotten to shopping for doors yet so I dont ahve anything specific in mind but the look we are going for is more contemporary with less moldings and trim so I'd like to run the Jchannel up instead of a brickmold.

 

[readhead]

We usually make the RO 1/4-3/8 all around the door jamb. The J trim will lap onto the jamb and have plenty of support on the framing. I don’t like the doors they are sending with these buildings. The doors that come with red iron buildings have proper jambs that swallow the girts and are much more substantial.

We have installed residential doors like you are talking about often. We usually remove the brick mold and flush the jamb to the outside and lap the J trim onto the jamb. I usually buy plastic jambs which hold up much better.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Perfect, just the response I was looking for. Good point about the plastic jambs, I’ll see if I can get them in dark bronze.
The doors that were offered were very expensive and lacked the features of the plyco. I will end up with residential doors since it’s so close to the house we want it to tie together.
Thanks again for the help