steel building components

[12valve]

I'm going to put up a large metal building next year. It was supposed to be this year, but I stayed overseas to save a little more money for this project. I found a guy who has a building that was never assembled. I tried to buy it from him but he wouldn't haggle on the price and then told me he was too busy to show the building to me. He sold off all the siding and has the frame work left. It is a weird size 100 wide by 90 long x14 at the eve. I will have to reframe the opening to make room for a 14'tall door I was wondering if any of you guys knew of a place to buy the siding at a discounted rate. I'm guess I'll need somewhere around 15,000 sq'. If I get a decent deal I'd buy an additional 2000 sq' and metal roof my house at the same time. I have a semi so I can pick up the metal. I know I'll need a ton of other stuff like fasteners and trim etc. A kit may be far easier. Anyone have insulation connections or ideas as well? I wanted to do spray foam but that is too much square footage and will get pricy. not to mention the concrete cost........ Thanks for letting me run this up the flagpole. If this seems like it will save me money I'll probably try to buy this building if he still has it in Aug. This guy is a steel building errector and has assured me that the building will meet me codes. I'll get it in writing as well. BTW I'm in Colorado

 

[BBDakota]

Do some searching on the Internet for "steel building components" and "steel building erection manual". You can download pdf files to get ideas or get your head around how they are typically assembled.

Does he have approved drawings that meet code in your area? Even if he does, will the manufacturer's engineer support you if the building inspector ask for calculations that are not on the drawings? Does he have a engineered foundation drawing?

I designed and modeled my steel building (I use cad at work) then gave the drawings to a PE to run all the calculations, add his notes and stamp my drawings. Of coarse he had me change a few things but it was just adding some rebar to the foundation. The building inspector wanted more so that's holding me up at the moment. The PE is running more calculations.

I've learned a lot about steel buildings during this process and there is a lot to the engineering side of them. You will most likely need some support from the manufacture.

You can buy the panels from a number of suppliers at good prices. Just have to do some calling around. They may give you a discount for buying that amount.

Good luck!

 

[Underdog]

It all boils down to Permit or no Permit. If you need a building permit then you will also need engineered drawings and load calculation like previously mentioned. I built a 65' X 100' X 16' metal building from American Building Corp. The county building inspector required a ton of drawings and engineered plans. The building maker supplied some but most came from the local engineer who had to do field inspections and sign off on the work before the final inspections. Maybe not required in Colorado but this is a problem in many areas. I roughly estimate just the Plans and engineering cost at 10% of total building cost and all you get for that is a bunch of papers to file away.

With buying a "used" building I don't think the building manufacturer will be willing to resupply you with the shop drawings that you would need to facilitate an engineer to do the field drawings.

 

[slyone1000]

Right now Lowes has 29g Painted 36" across for $2.19 a LF.. Union corrigated is where we get ours from.

 

[Art From De Leon]

Behlen has one or two auctions a year selling surplus and odds and ends from their metal building operations.

http://www.behlenmfg.com/bbs/bbs.htm

I don't know if other manufactures of metal buildings like Morton, Astro, Creary, or Menards would have surplus sales or not.

Fk me, I see Behlen has a webpage written in Chinese!

 

[12valve]

thanks guys. I know the permit thing maybe a roadblock. I'm a good distance out in a rural area. I may be able to do it without a permit. I will probably go with 26 gauge and go a little thicker. The seller is a steel building erector by trade. He may be able to give some of the advice on permitting, and engineering. the building will be expensive either way, so I probably will pull the permits. I don't want to have to take it down. Is there anyway to measure the beams and figure out the ratings?

 

[Bib Overalls]

Are you planning to erect the building yourself?

The reason I ask is that you may be able to get a complete building kit erected on your site for the price of the scab frame and sheet metal. The metal building industry is very competitive these days.

 

[Bfoughty]

This is where I get my building materials. bbmofokc.com I'm sure there is something like this in Colorado as well.

 

[BBDakota]

thanks guys. I know the permit thing maybe a roadblock. I'm a good distance out in a rural area. I may be able to do it without a permit. I will probably go with 26 gauge and go a little thicker. The seller is a steel building erector by trade. He may be able to give some of the advice on permitting, and engineering. the building will be expensive either way, so I probably will pull the permits. I don't want to have to take it down. Is there anyway to measure the beams and figure out the ratings?

Not accurately. If you get the drawings with the deal, the drawings will have most if not all of that info on them. Otherwise, a engineer has to know the column sizes, locations, anchor bolt details, girt and purlin span, thickness, and size, cross brace locations and sizes, brace locations, panel design and thickness, etc. to be able to run the calculations.

Hopefully the manufacture keeps good records of the original sale and will be willing to help you get the info you need.

 

[Palmetto]

Depends on where you live. I live out in the country, in kind of a secluded area. So if it was me, I would try and get a good deal on the structure, and buy 26ga. tin & trim from a dealer (Mueller INC. has a office in New Mexico, not sure how far you are from NM), and put it all together myself. Do NOT buy from Lowes. You will get bent over if you go Big Box store and buy that much tin.

Remember that you dont have to enclose the whole thing. You could make it 100x60 and just put a roof over the last 30' to save on side tin. That way you would have a nice awning to park under. Lots of different alternatives.

Anyway, for me it would be cheaper to sub contract a slab, buy the frame, and components, and erect it myself becuase time would not really be an issue. Just make sure that you are getting all the frame, and not part of it! BUT, it would be wise to get a quote for a kit like others have said just to compare prices.

 

[Red05GT]

What appears to be a smokin' deal may turn out to be more hassle than it's worth when
compared to a new building package price that is exactly what you want. Buying steel
sheeting, trim and fasteners piece meal will add up quickly in the quanities you will need
for this size building. Building suppliers pass along volumne pricing they receive on the
hundreds of buildings they assemble each year. The guy selling you the building should
have dozens of suppliers and sources for the components you would need to complete
the building. I'm guessing he probably got the building for taking it down and that's
why he doesn't have the skin to the building.

 

[12valve]

The guy bought the building to make a riding arena for his wife. He decided to sell it instead. The guy is legit, because he installed my dad's 60x80x16 building. I made an offer on it over 1 year ago. he wouldn't budge on the price and I had to head back to work in Iraq anyways. He was able to sell off the panels bit by bit. I do plan to errect it myself. The labor for the errection of dad's shop was over 16k. I have been pricing 60x120x16 kits. Kit only is 26,000 to 30,000. I can buy the framing for 5000. I think you could get the 26 gauge paneling for less than $1 a square or around $1 with screws. I estimated 15,000 sq', so $15,000 for the tin and $5000 for the framing is 20,000. The only thing missing is the trim, ridge caps and foam enclosures. Doors and all will be extra's in any kit. So it may be possible to get more building for less money. I agree that these small things will add to alot of expense. Palmetto I did think of using it as a 60 x100 with a 30 lean to. That would allow me to use less concrete initialy, and less space to heat. I'm in Pueblo CO it is about 120 miles north of the Colorado/NM line, just off of I-25. I thank all of you for your help. I appreciate all the opinions. It helps me to make decisions. Hope to return home and start on this by next spring