Steel building...insulation

[ffjosh]

I do not have the money at the moment to insulate my steel building. That is my next winter plans.

Spray foam would be the best bet but it sure is pricey in my area.

I would like to go with traditional house style insulation. Its cheap and easy to install.

However installing insulation against metal barn siding seems like a bad idea.

What do I need to do to make this right?

Is foam my only option?

 

[My Old Tools]

They insulate metal buildings with fiberglass roll insulation all the time. Mine has fiberglass with foil on one side and plastic on the other.

 

[welder57]

Look up Bay Insulation on the internet-they do insulation for our steel building (Ceco Building Systems). It should give a contact number to ask a rep. any questions you have.
Have a great day.

 

[readhead]

Is the building up? If not you will want to install a thermal break between the sheeting and the girts and purlins if you plan to heat the building. If you don't you will have a condensation problem.
Insulating after the building is up can be done. Contact a commercial insulation supplier and they can line you up with all the stuff.

 

[toyoguy81]

Another member on here in the heating/cooling forum posted aboout how he just insulated his barn. I have a pole barn as well and have already spoke with the company he used. I will be going this route...www.steelbuildinginsulation.com

 

[ffjosh]

Thanks guys.

The building is up but the sheeting is not.

I do not have the money for insulation but if I needed to do prep work ahead of time I would.

Thanks

 

[Rookie2]

use house wrap ! or you'll have air flowing into the insulation.

 

[ffjosh]

use house wrap ! or you'll have air flowing into the insulation.

i was thinking about that!

 

[188slo50]

Any pics? I have to do my building also and was wandering the process ended before I use fiberglass insulation. Can you just use standard plastic sheeting against the metal than apply the fiberglass side of the insulation against that with the paper contacting your drywall or what ever you use?

 

[Rookie2]

all depends on your budget and desire to be comfortable if you heat or cool the work area.
clear plastic will dry rot in several years. air flow into the insulation from outside will kill the R value and blow in thru any cracks or seams. I also had to build a box or block off the top of each 9 ft section to transition to the ceiling . it stops vertical convection into the attic.

 

[188slo50]

Like the OP I want to do the prep work now and insulate as I get the funds. If I can't use plastic what should I use? I've used it in the past with no issues just wandering why it would rot away and the insulation/paper wouldn't over time. I do plan on heating in the winter time aswell.

 

[Rookie2]

If you go with clear plastic, just check the box for some kind of uv/ozone resistance. I think they call it construction grade. I used house wrap and a friend of mine didn't and we ended up removing the interior sheet metal to pack more insulation into the corners and any voids between the insulation batts.

also if you have a metal roof , your in for rain sometimes in the truss area.

WE have cold/cool nights and when the sun hits the roof in the morning it rains !

 

[188slo50]

Why would it have to be uv resistant if it's on the inside of building and as for the rain are you talking about condisation forming on the metal?

 

[Rookie2]

yes , I have a morton. steel roof without insulation at the roof. and air that hits that roof metal as the sun comes up causes moisture to condense and drip onto the ceiling insulation below and soak thru the 4'x4' panels of my drop ceiling. morton said "you should have insulated the roof" my bad !

 

[Kels]

I put up house wrap (Tyvek) between the metal and the wood framing/gerts. it dramatically reduces the air flow. make sure you seal it up with the tape and such. Then I will insulate it with bats and sheetrock. this is what I did for the walls at least.