In researching an upcoming shop build, I've noticed that virtually all steel buildings are attached to a flat slab. Can a steel building be attached to a slab with a short stem wall? If so, are there additional reinforcement procedures that must be followed? Pros/cons?
Steel building with a stem wall?
- Thread starter bumpside
- Start date
nadogail
Well-known member
Without a doubt, but having an electrical, not concrete masonry, background I am not qualified to comment further.
tinmanwpk
Well-known member
I am in the process of purchasing a small metal garage. I will have a stem wall on the Slab.
D.J.
Well-known member
I'm not concrete or carpenter but be sure to plan for electrical, gas and a few blank condiits up thru concrete stem wall for future expansion.
PWC Repair
Well-known member
One whole side of mine will be on a 4ft wall.http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180578 You just need to remember any extra weight from snow on the roof wants to push the "legs" outward.
I'd be happy to help you with some more info. How big is your building? How high are you wanting your stem wall?
rburke65
Well-known member
I am sure the manufacturer .....along with your local zoning and building codes......will tell you exactly what you will need.
Well, the building I'm planning is a 40x60x12 on my rural acreage, and I'm just questioning the feasibility of adding a short (8"-10") stem wall, mainly for a little added protection from the elements (and bugs/critters). It would also allow easier cleanup inside with a hose as needed.
I've seen smaller sheds and quonsets having a stem wall, just haven't seen any larger steel-frame buildings with one, and am exploring the possibility. I don't have my mind set on it, just doing some research. Thanks!
I've seen smaller sheds and quonsets having a stem wall, just haven't seen any larger steel-frame buildings with one, and am exploring the possibility. I don't have my mind set on it, just doing some research. Thanks!
I assume you're looking at a pole barn? You're looking at $9k - $10k floor on a pole barn. In order to do a stem wall right you would need a continuous footings to set the wall on. You'd be looking at adding $5k or more depending on if you wanted a short wall on a trench footings or a 3 or 4ft wall.
PWC Repair
Well-known member
Correct, footings are especially important with a wall. The footer would generally be 1/2 as wide as the wall is tall and 1/2 of that in depth. My 4ft tall wall is sitting on a 2ft wide 18" deep footer and has an 8" grid of 3/8 rebar inside of it.
No, as mentioned, I'm planning on a steel-frame building, not post frame. I'm wondering if the added weight of the steel might cause the sides of the wall to 'kick out'. While I realize anything adverse could be overcome, I'm questioning the feasibility of a stem wall for a steel building as opposed to just attaching it to a flat slab.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
bumbside: i would think that there shouldn't be any issues with a steel framed shop on a short stem wall. get it engineered so the footing and the width of the stem wall will have enough support for the weight.
you didn't really say what type of metal. some metal framed buildings are just aluminum studs and others are I or H beams like a manufacturer named Mueller would supply metal for.
personally i would build something like you are wanting to build much more than the less expensive pole built ones. not sure exactly why because a pole barn will probably last longer than i'm alive, but i do like the idea of being able to wash out the shop or in case water gets inside that the sill plates won't get water on them.
good luck
you didn't really say what type of metal. some metal framed buildings are just aluminum studs and others are I or H beams like a manufacturer named Mueller would supply metal for.
personally i would build something like you are wanting to build much more than the less expensive pole built ones. not sure exactly why because a pole barn will probably last longer than i'm alive, but i do like the idea of being able to wash out the shop or in case water gets inside that the sill plates won't get water on them.
good luck
Ah. Guess I missed that. You would probably need pilasters in the wall where the columns attach. We do concrete packages for pre-engineered metal buildings all the time and it's pretty typical to put a 8" or 12" thick by 2 or 3 ft wide footing in the ground with a 8" 4'or6' wall atop it. Approximately 2'-4' sticking out of the ground.
If the wall is only going to be a few inches above the slab then you can get away with placing that on top of the footings. Ideally you'd place it integral with the footing. You'd still want to do pilasters at the column locations and possibly even hairpin bars turning back into the slab to keep the walls from pushing. I'm actually working on one right now I'll try to get you some pics early this week.
If the wall is only going to be a few inches above the slab then you can get away with placing that on top of the footings. Ideally you'd place it integral with the footing. You'd still want to do pilasters at the column locations and possibly even hairpin bars turning back into the slab to keep the walls from pushing. I'm actually working on one right now I'll try to get you some pics early this week.
csp
Well-known member
In the three counties nearest where I live a metal building (steel frame) is required to either be on a stem wall or caissons to spread the load properly.
With the proper design the weight is taken into account to prevent the "push out" you're concerned with. I'm not sure how many times it needs to be mentioned to inquire with your local building dept. and local engineers.
With the proper design the weight is taken into account to prevent the "push out" you're concerned with. I'm not sure how many times it needs to be mentioned to inquire with your local building dept. and local engineers.
That would be great...thank you! The visual would be very much appreciated.
Now that I know that this isn't as uncommon as I thought, I will definitely be talking to the appropriate entities.
soj
Well-known member
I have seen a red iron frame metal building with a concrete block stem wall. The frame was put up on the slab, as usual. Then, before the wall sheet metal was put up, the blocks were laid between the framing members. Two rows of 8" blocks and a cap block to cover the holes. After the walls were covered, the blocks were exposed inside and outside, and were not structural.
Lots of commercial red iron framed buildings have masonry fronts to dress them up.
It is the same principle as what you want to do, just on a larger scale. The bottom line is you will have to work with your building supplier or contractor, tell them what you want, and they will tell you what they can, or can't, do. If one can't do what you want, someone can. Keep looking.
jp
Lots of commercial red iron framed buildings have masonry fronts to dress them up.
It is the same principle as what you want to do, just on a larger scale. The bottom line is you will have to work with your building supplier or contractor, tell them what you want, and they will tell you what they can, or can't, do. If one can't do what you want, someone can. Keep looking.
jp
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readhead
Well-known member
If you are using 8" bypass girts you don't need to do anything different on the side walls. The endwall columns will need to be inset. The columns will still bear on the slab and piers below as usual. The cmu will be layed up on the slab. The base angle will be placed on top of the cmu or if planed properly the wall sheeting can cover the cmu.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Bumpside: here's a Mueller metal framed building a member is finishing up. it doesn't have a stem wall and probably doesn't need one so thought you'd like to see what one looks like because this one is stout.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300948&highlight=mueller+tex
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300948&highlight=mueller+tex