Steel Ceiling & Joists?

[Bigshow0003]

Ready to begin the ceiling of a 40x30x10.
My roof trusses are 8' OC.

My builder, when finishing the inside of a shop for a customer, does NOT add any additional ceiling joists. They simply screw the steel to the bottom of the chords over that 8' span. He also explained they use the same ribbed steel for their ceilings as they do outside, and due to their gauge and rib design, they do not need additional ceiling joists added.

This is contrary to many threads I've read here. Based on forum searches here and elsewhere, I am reading that I need to add joists, spanning the 8' bottom chords, every 4 to 5 feet.

I intend on using Menard's liner panel. Its 30 gauge, and designed for indoor ceiling applications only.

So... I'm leaning towards adding the joists on the 5' centers which would work well for my 30' wide building (40' deep). I will order 10' panels so essentially they will be suspended by each end, and row of screws at the midpoint (5').

If I add the joists, can I use 2x4's? During my research I've read that the span for a 2x4, on edge suspended by joist hangers, is a max of 6'? I will use the appropriate joist hangers from the chords.

My trusses/chords are rated to support a ceiling so no issue there. The roof deck is sprayed with 3" of CC Spray Foam. Numerous contractors in the area said that would suffice for a desired temp of 40-45 degrees for the winter months. Walls are R-19 but all seams were spray foamed prior to hanging the batts.

So at this point the ceiling is just the steel. It will not have to support any insulation. However, if I'm unsatisfied with efficiency of the shop, I could add ceiling insulation down the road. According to many, I won't have to.

Thoughts?
Ceiling joists or no?
If so, 2x4's or 2x6's?
Thanks!!

 

[nadogail]

Why not use steel channel for your ceiling joists and avoid a harbor for termites?

 

[Bigshow0003]

I haven't really considered that option but can look into it. We don't really have termites here in northern WI.

 

[Pluribus]

If you're adding lumber, that's more weight. Would recommend that you confirm the design load of the trusses/roof structure is designed for extra weight if you go that route.

 

[WNYflyer]

Ready to begin the ceiling of a 40x30x10.
My roof trusses are 8' OC.

My builder, when finishing the inside of a shop for a customer, does NOT add any additional ceiling joists. They simply screw the steel to the bottom of the chords over that 8' span. He also explained they use the same ribbed steel for their ceilings as they do outside, and due to their gauge and rib design, they do not need additional ceiling joists added.

This is contrary to many threads I've read here. Based on forum searches here and elsewhere, I am reading that I need to add joists, spanning the 8' bottom chords, every 4 to 5 feet.

You really need to get the technical data sheet/span data of the steel panel you would like to use. Then from that sheet(s) see how far the panel can span per square foot of load. The panel might be able to span 8', until you get that information you are flying blind. If your intended panel cannot span 8' then perhaps you can change to a different panel and save yourself needing additional joist/girts spanning between trusses. Just need to work out the costs and time.

I don't see that information on Menard's website, perhaps I missed it, but you should request that information from Menard's so you make an informed decision.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I put in 2x6s, figuring that they will be walked on whenever the area needs to be accessed.

 

[Bigshow0003]

You really need to get the technical data sheet/span data of the steel panel you would like to use. Then from that sheet(s) see how far the panel can span per square foot of load. The panel might be able to span 8', until you get that information you are flying blind. If your intended panel cannot span 8' then perhaps you can change to a different panel and save yourself needing additional joist/girts spanning between trusses. Just need to work out the costs and time.

I don't see that information on Menard's website, perhaps I missed it, but you should request that information from Menard's so you make an informed decision.

Right, I couldn't find it either. I did stumble an article similar that stated going to a 26 gauge panel, like an R-Panel, can span the 8' truss. However, that's obviously more money. I was looking at the Menards liner panel, which is 30 gauge, highly unlikely that can span 8'.

And yes mentioned in a post above, the truss rating exceeds my needs for the added joists/ceiling weight so all good there.

 

[Pluribus]

<snip>

And yes mentioned in a post above, the truss rating exceeds my needs for the added joists/ceiling weight so all good there.

Apologies. I do try really hard to read peoples' entire posts before commenting, but somehow I missed this paragraph.

 

[Bert_]

You can get tin with deeper ribs that will span the 8' and hold insulation.

It's going to cost more than the liner panel but likely be cheaper than all the extra lumber and labor needed to make the normal profile tin work

 

[WNYflyer]

Right, I couldn't find it either. I did stumble an article similar that stated going to a 26 gauge panel, like an R-Panel, can span the 8' truss. However, that's obviously more money. I was looking at the Menards liner panel, which is 30 gauge, highly unlikely that can span 8'.

And yes mentioned in a post above, the truss rating exceeds my needs for the added joists/ceiling weight so all good there.

See below, this looks like the folks that make the panels that Menard's sells. I think this maybe the loading information but always best to check with Menard's

https://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/MidwestWebsite/web/cms/docs/DuraPanelBifoldlo.pdf

https://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/MidwestWebsite/productLiterature.do?productLiteratureGroupId=-1&literatureTypeId=-1

 

[WNYflyer]

You can get tin with deeper ribs that will span the 8' and hold insulation.

It's going to cost more than the liner panel but likely be cheaper than all the extra lumber and labor needed to make the normal profile tin work

^ Agree, all kinds of different depth panels are out there.

 

[Bigshow0003]

If I found a better steel panel, something with a better rib and designed to span 8', would I need to put a few screws along the 8' seam panel to panel?