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Steel Garage Kits?

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greg13

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2018
Messages
497
Location
Weedsport, NY
I'm leaning towards steel too. Pay attention to snow & wind load ratings. I had to pass on a new (20 yr old) pioneer that was still in boxes for $2000 because it was only rated for 30 lb. snow load ( I need 55 lb.) .
 

gearhead1

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
1,935
Location
NC
I looked into it in great detail. The cost goes up for insulation, and having a ‘stamped’ plan. I ended up doing a stick built because the cost wasn’t that different. YMMV.
 

JamesW84

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2015
Messages
827
Location
Springfield, MO
I looked into it in great detail. The cost goes up for insulation, and having a ‘stamped’ plan. I ended up doing a stick built because the cost wasn’t that different. YMMV.

Was cost the same with both complete with the same details?

When I was looking, it seemed like people said that the bigger you go (and taller), the more steel becomes a wash. Smaller steel buildings generally cost more than a stick-framed of the same size. It also depends on if you plan to insulate other than the blanket insulation.

That being said, I'm about 80% done with my 32x64 18 ft wall stick frame with mono trusses and a 20x64 lean-to and it has taken a lot of time to build it just my brother and I. I think I'm around 50k. Not sure how much the erectors charge to install the steel, but I think I'd be probably about the same if I would have went with steel and it would have been done much sooner and with a lot less work on my end. I could have possibly even rented equipment and we could have put it up.

Being 18' tall makes building it harder.
 
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fasteddie313

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
323
Location
northern michigan
We are looking at something around 20X25 - 24X30 for around $10k installed.. (not including foundation work)..

They are claiming 70 lb/sf snow load rating and have an upgrade to 5/12 pitch from 4/12..

Othet than cost factors, bang for the buck, are people generally satisfied with their steel garages VS stick built garages?
 
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fasteddie313

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
323
Location
northern michigan
We are looking at about $13k after taxes for a 28X30X10 with 2 10X9 roll up doors and side door..

Also including the upgraded thickness on the legs/poles to 12ga and 70# snow load (closer/more trusses/legs)..
Pretty good warranties..

I'm thinking about canceling the roll up doors (doing electrics myself) and upgrading to 100lb/sf snow load..

How does that deal sound?

This is for my mother and grandmother, to park their cars and storage in the back..
(also my inheritance property)

I like the idea of steel because I can basically hose it out from top to bottom if I want..

This property is out in the woods so no concern of HOA or anything like that..
 

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,186
Location
Durango, Co.
Ask if 70# snow load is roof snow or ground snow. Big difference, especially if you have to go through the building department. You want to know what the actual roof snow load is. Concrete details are very important. Don’t let them talk you into making the slab a foot larger all the way around.
 
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fasteddie313

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
323
Location
northern michigan
70 lbs per sq/ft on the roof.. Can upgrade to 100#..
Just about 100 miles north of me code requires 100# roof load, so that option is available..

They said something like only 3" more concrete around the building..

It would be contractor permits, not homeowner permits, so they deal with the permits and we talked about them sending over the blueprints and everything..

Maybe we should make them pull the permits before we sign a contract on the building?
 

readhead

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2012
Messages
6,186
Location
Durango, Co.
Ideally concrete should not extend past the base rails or you will have water coming under the walls. Don't let them tell you they will caulk it. The extended concrete is strictly to make it easier for them.
 
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fasteddie313

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
323
Location
northern michigan
Price seems a little high but we can't get away with the usual 25# snow load and lighter gauge legs and paneling here..

What do you guys think on that price for a 28X30X10?
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,172
Location
AZ
70 lbs per sq/ft on the roof.. Can upgrade to 100#..
Just about 100 miles north of me code requires 100# roof load, so that option is available..

They said something like only 3" more concrete around the building..

It would be contractor permits, not homeowner permits, so they deal with the permits and we talked about them sending over the blueprints and everything..

Maybe we should make them pull the permits before we sign a contract on the building?


The problem with the pad extending out past the bottom rail is water travel back into the building. The reason behind the request to keep the pad from spalling (blowing out the edge) at the anchor points. If this is correct I'd suggest you talk with them about a Z flashing that goes under the skin and then covers over and down the side of the pad to eliminate water migration.
 
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fasteddie313

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
323
Location
northern michigan
Well, we put the small down payment on it today..
Stupid or not..
So it is happening..

I have a ton of ground work to do though..
Which is kinda good..
 

quattro_sinko

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
417
Location
Upstate NY
I had no idea the kind of money these things run. My metal roof supplier was delivering a job a few years ago and mentioned he was woodstove shopping. I gave him a Vermont Castings stove I had just removed from a job the week before.
He showed back up a week later with the frame for a 18'x20' metal building with all necessary hat channel, etc. He was a rep for the metal building company a decade earlier and this kit had been taking up space in one of his barns. We do a lot of business back and forth, he hooked me up with the siding and roof metal, charging me a $1/ft of new panel, and gave me more than enough of his "seconds" (wrong length/wrong color/etc) from other jobs to enclose the building. I'll get around to spraying it so the exterior walls are all one color one of these days, lol.
 

Joemctag

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2017
Messages
813
Location
Outside raleigh nc
Commercial metal buildings always have a rabbet about 1 1/2” high by 1 1/2” deep for the wall sheets to rest in , so wall sheets extend 1 1/2” below floor. Guess if you need 3” past framing, then the rabbet could be 3” deep (front-to-back). No rabbet + caulking along bottom of sheets = amateur job. Go look at any real metal building.
 

Racy2

Active member
Joined
Feb 24, 2019
Messages
39
Location
Bolton, Ontario
I have a permit finally to build a 30 X 50 steel building. It has taken me about 2 years to get a variance and a permit from the Toronto conservation authority and then a building permit. It will have a 6 inch concrete pad with footings below the frost line. Insulated and fully built. According to the builder it should take about 2 weeks to build near the end of March when there is no frost at night.
 

aventino68

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2008
Messages
237
Location
Napanee ON
I have a permit finally to build a 30 X 50 steel building. It has taken me about 2 years to get a variance and a permit from the Toronto conservation authority and then a building permit. It will have a 6 inch concrete pad with footings below the frost line. Insulated and fully built. According to the builder it should take about 2 weeks to build near the end of March when there is no frost at night.
I'm in Ontario working through the Regs, is it a custom build or from a kit?
 
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