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Steel garage shops

N_Jay

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Quick question for the gang.

Is there really any difference between all these companies selling metal tube buildings?
Leaving Versa-tube off the list.

They all seem to be selling the same or very similar products, except for the handful selling red steel framed buildings.

Does anyone have a downside to getting a 30X40x14 garage shop from one of them.

I need something "installed" because I don't have the time for a project once I get the land.
 
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readhead

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Durango, Co.
Tube steel buildings will do everything you need. Don’t let any of the suppliers talk you into making the slab larger than the building. You will be chasing leaks forever.
Why is VersaTube off the list? Price? No installers?
 
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N_Jay

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Versa tube seems to loose it s price edge when you need to hire a installer, vs. the "delivered and installed" buildings.

I have also heard that when you get past about a 24 foot span with Versa Tube the cut sections end up adding sag and reducing strength. I am looking at a 30X 40 building with a 12 x 40 lean-to.
I was going to do that pad under the lean-to but might just go gravel.
 

readhead

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I'm a Versatube dealer and you can't really compare them to the carport buildings. They are a lot more substantial but you may not need that. I have done 45' spans with Versatube with no problem. You are right that they will be ultimately more expensive when you figure in erecting.
I would strongly suggest that you insulate now rather than later if you can. If not now then ask for isolation tape between the sheeting and all the framing to provide a thermal break so you don't get condensation on the framing when you insulate later. Do not fall for bubble wrap insulation. It will fail pretty quickly.
 
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N_Jay

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I'm a Versatube dealer and you can't really compare them to the carport buildings. They are a lot more substantial but you may not need that. I have done 45' spans with Versatube with no problem. You are right that they will be ultimately more expensive when you figure in erecting.
I would strongly suggest that you insulate now rather than later if you can. If not now then ask for isolation tape between the sheeting and all the framing to provide a thermal break so you don't get condensation on the framing when you insulate later. Do not fall for bubble wrap insulation. It will fail pretty quickly.

Thanks, Yes I am planning in insulating.

I am also looking for best practices for sealing under the frame to prevent water intrusion.

What is typically used for the isolation tape between the skin and the frame?
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
Insulation companies sell the tape. It is usually 3/8"x3" with sticky on one side. If you are insulating now you won't need it. Again, do not use bubble wrap no matter how good they say it is.
You do not need to seal under the frame because you are going to have the pad sized to the building so the siding laps down over the concrete. Unless the concrete is already placed. If that is the case I don't have any recommendations. The building supplier will have available clips to move the bolts in from the edge of the concrete if it is sized for the building.
They want the pad bigger so it is easier for their installers. You will chase leaks forever and rust will start to form on the bottom of the base rail even though it is galvanized.
 

archerace

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michigan
Redhead, is it best to have the pad poured first and then the building secured to it? Or, should the pad be pour after the building it up?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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N_Jay

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Given I am in North Carolina where significant cold temps are not an issue, I am guessing I can skip the tape.

I do want to put in a layer of insulation (most seem to use 2") since I will be using the building for some storage of household items and will be installing a split unit AC mostly to pull out some humidity and keep the interior below 85 degrees or so.

As for the base, I originally planned a slightly larger pad and then sealing, but might try to get it exact and let them set the anchors in 6 inches in.

Why would you not put down a good bead of sealant or something like a butyl tape before setting the frame?
 

readhead

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If you insulate now the insulation acts as the thermal break and no tape is required.
If the pad is sized to the frame and the siding laps down over the pad then no water will ever see the bottom of the frame. Hence no need to seal. I prefer a notch in the concrete but a rat guard or base trim will serve to seal the bottom of the sheets.
 
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N_Jay

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So the insulation goes over the frame (on the inside), or doe the insulation just go between the uprights (legs). Do you have to fir out the inside and panel, or is it OK just to leave the insulation exposed?
 

readhead

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The insulation goes over the frame and is captured between the frame and the siding. There should be a white vinyl laminated to the insulation to the inside for a nice finished appearance.
 

readhead

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If the salesman has not gone over all of the options you need to look elsewhere. They are looking for a quick, easy sale.
 
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N_Jay

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I haven't gotten to the sales guy yet. I want to know all I can before I get to that point.
We are still in the planning/budgeting stage with a small setback due to the first choice lot falling through.

Also thinking what I can do myself instead of order, like insulation etc.
 

ineedhelp

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Dec 20, 2020
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Nunn
I am also debating on what style garage to build(30x50x12). I keep coming back to the tube style because they are about $5,000 cheaper than pole barn and red iron. I have been dealing with Big Buildings Direct for the tube building and the "engineered" ratings claim the tube building has higher wind and snow ratings than the red iron from Mueller. but then i watch youtube videos or see pictures and you see daylight coming from almost every where in the tube style garages. Maybe thats what spray foam is for?
 
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N_Jay

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Do you have a link to a video showing the daylight coming in?

I winder is that is more about a poor installation than the product.

I was thinking about spray insulation, but having decided. It seems it can get expensive.

Current thought is a little batting between the ribs and 1/2 to 1 inch foil faced foamboard.
 

ineedhelp

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I will try to find a couple of the videos with sunlight coming through, but it definitely seems like an installation problem. I also saw a video that they put some of the foam that fits the shape of the metal siding to fill the gaps that might show up
 

Mavawreck

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Durham NC
In NC as well, been pricing out lots of different options. Very intrigued by Stroud out of Morganton. Pole barn style but with engineered steel trusses.
 
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ineedhelp

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Nunn
i guess most of the videos i can find again you could argue its reflection? one guy already had the great stuff yellow foam already in.
 

ineedhelp

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the site wont let me post links until i have 5 or greater posts and i just joined the site today because i have been lurking for months reading old posts about garages. maybe i can cheat and get my 5 posts now?
 

ineedhelp

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i have priced pole barns in my area and they are neck and neck in prices with red iron until you get to the foundation needed for red iron, then its about $20,000 more expensive in my area.
 

ineedhelp

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hopefully this works, i will try to link tube style videos showing daylight. most the videos i looked at you could probably argue its glare or the building isnt finished but these are a couple i found.

looks to me like this guy has light coming in from the floor and has a couple spots where the roof meets the walls

around 6:30 you can see gaps along this guys roof.

about the same time 6:25 this guys talks about the light coming in so he foamed all his gaps

around 8:55 this guy closes his garage door an you can see daylight and around 10:00 he talks about the gaps
 
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N_Jay

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The first one with insulation did not look like light was coming in except for over the roll up door.

On the others it seems that vertical style siding might address a few of those issues.
 

rpcraft

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Waco
Just curious if there are any experiences or recommendations of setting up these on an ashpalt surface instead of concrete?
 

ineedhelp

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Location
Nunn
The first one with insulation did not look like light was coming in except for over the roll up door.

On the others it seems that vertical style siding might address a few of those issues.

thats a good point!

I found another guy that spent some time sealing up his tube garage.
 

bradpac

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Sep 8, 2013
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Central TX
I was thinking about a tube frame style building for my 30x30. Probably should have gone that route, but I have worked with a building erector for years who is going to do a custom weld up, as I wanted 6:12 slopes and overhangs with horizontal siding. Once you start looking at non-standard stuff, the standard kit companies get expensive in a hurry. Just got the permit so I'm hoping I chose well.
 
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N_Jay

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Well. I have the pad down, and just finalizing the order for the building.
I ended up with "Pre-Built Structures" sold by a larger local dealer.
They seem to be very easy to work with even with covid holding up everything.
Pad is exact in size then steps down 1 1/2 inches with 3 1/2 inches all the way around.
That should prevent any anchors from cracking the edge.
 
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N_Jay

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Will do.
Working out the electrical power plan so I can start wiring as soon as it is up and inspected.
 
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N_Jay

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Seems that my building is showing up next Monday.
Other than treating the crew to doughnuts in the AM and pizza at lunch, what else should I do to help ensure a good installation?
I am planning on sealing the base rail to the concrete to further reduce the change of water or bugs getting in.
What type of sealant is recommended?
Just a run of something from a tube, or a run down each side of a piece of weather strip as I saw somewhere?
Thoughts?

Anything else that I am missing????
 
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N_Jay

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Steel and crew show up tomorrow.
Rain showed up tonight.
I did get some straw to try to keep the red clay off the pad as the workers are in and out.
I also have doughnuts for the morning and will have pizza at lunch.
 
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N_Jay

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Moving right along
 

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