Steel Panel ceiling installation
- Thread starter jawmaw
- Start date
I am running the panels length wise perpendicular to the trusses. The panels are 3' wide and this width will rest on all the trusses but the 10' or 12' length will likely not.
I have not purchased the panels yet but wanted to go with a stock length (no special order). The trusses are 2' centers but the layout has the gable end trusses are a few inches less than that so if I started at the end of the garage the panel ends will not fall right on a truss.
I have not purchased the panels yet but wanted to go with a stock length (no special order). The trusses are 2' centers but the layout has the gable end trusses are a few inches less than that so if I started at the end of the garage the panel ends will not fall right on a truss.
jwith68
Well-known member
On 2' centers, no - will make little if any difference. You can still use "stitch" screws (through two layers of metal only, not into wood) at the overlap if you wish, but I doubt that will make any difference either.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I ran my steel perpendicular to the trusses. I was also lucky that some of the garage ceiling was already sheetrocked, taped, and sprayed. So I had 16' and 3/16" of an opening to fill. Menards had steel 16' long so I didn't have to worry about where it would end up.
You can either custom order to length so the ends end up on a truss, or let the ends "float" between trusses (but overlap them). When you're done, go back and screw the floating ends together with self-tapping screws or drill and pop rivet the floating ends together using pop rivets with plastic heads the color of your steel; I used white.
http://behlingracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Catalog-12-19-27.pdf
I had trouble putting the self-drilling screws into the trusses and ended with a number (lots actually) "holes" that needed to be filled and I used these rivets (the large head) fill those holes. It really, really worked well to hid my mistakes!
You can either custom order to length so the ends end up on a truss, or let the ends "float" between trusses (but overlap them). When you're done, go back and screw the floating ends together with self-tapping screws or drill and pop rivet the floating ends together using pop rivets with plastic heads the color of your steel; I used white.
http://behlingracing.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Catalog-12-19-27.pdf
I had trouble putting the self-drilling screws into the trusses and ended with a number (lots actually) "holes" that needed to be filled and I used these rivets (the large head) fill those holes. It really, really worked well to hid my mistakes!
jwith68
Well-known member
To avoid this situation, and make it a lot easier to screw the panels in place overhead, pre-drill for your screws. Stack 6 - 10 panels together, aligning the ends carefully. Measure out your truss spacing, mark the top panel for them, and drill through all the panels with a small (~1/8") bit. Nice straight rows of screws, no missed trusses, and greatly reduced effort to start screws.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I thought about doing that ... but I just didn't have enough confidence in my ability to measure fives times and still end up drilling only once.
You're a better man than me!
stngfever
Well-known member
For each panel, I had to measure the truss location as the trusses do drift in center. I marked each panel where I needed the self tapper. Took me a couple rows of hit and miss to figure it out.
rburke65
Well-known member
First of all the panels do go perpendicular to the trusses. Don't know how high your walls are but, THE BEST money spent was the rental of a drywall lift. You can do the entire job yourself and save your arms. You can raise the panels and adjust them, then add a little pressure for the final position and screw it down. And yes, pre drill the holes. Trusses won't be that far off. We started my panels just like you roof with shingles. Started with a 4' or 6' or 8' piece.... cut a little long to go past the truss. Then the next full piece overlapped the first by a few inches. I'm thinking there are other hints on YouTube or instructional sheets from the manufacturer. Take your time.....you can do this. Good luck.
jlckmj
Well-known member
In a perfect world, Yes, but in reality, I would say NO, the ends do not have to land on a truss. I overlapped on several of mine and all I did was take small hex head screws (with the drill bit on them) and tied them together where they overlapped.
jim
jim
My trusses that are 8' OC. I would like to install the metal ceiling with blown-in insulation. I plan to frame in attic stairs and would like to have plenty of fluorescent light fixtures. What other framing would be needed to support the ceiling along with the light fixtures?
FlyingLow
Well-known member
Anyone have pictures of completed projects?
PeterT
Well-known member
I'd have to dig up my photos, but I have a 60x100 (approx) barn, I bought 30' x 3' pieces of ceiling metal sheets from menards.
Ran mine perpendicular to the bottom of the ceiling joists, honestly I am not sure how else I would of done it, or even wanted to have done it
Had a foot or two overlap in the center, worked great.
I didn't pre-drill any holes, just use a good 18v drill and a 1/4 attachment with those metal/wood screws, I used the ones with the gasket just because I picked up a 10lb bag for $10 in the bargain basket at Menards.
I added r19 insulation right on top of the panels, as we went.
That barn is as snug as a bug in a rug,, it can be 90 outside, and its in the 70s in the barn. In the winter, I have a small nat gas furnace, doesn't run much but keeps the barn about 55 all winter
The sheets came on some old 30' 2x4s (on a makeshift pallet),, I used 2 of them and bolted them to the top of my drywall lift making it 25' to hold the sheet up, the built in extensions on the lift were cheap chinese junk.
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Ran mine perpendicular to the bottom of the ceiling joists, honestly I am not sure how else I would of done it, or even wanted to have done it
Had a foot or two overlap in the center, worked great.
I didn't pre-drill any holes, just use a good 18v drill and a 1/4 attachment with those metal/wood screws, I used the ones with the gasket just because I picked up a 10lb bag for $10 in the bargain basket at Menards.
I added r19 insulation right on top of the panels, as we went.
That barn is as snug as a bug in a rug,, it can be 90 outside, and its in the 70s in the barn. In the winter, I have a small nat gas furnace, doesn't run much but keeps the barn about 55 all winter
The sheets came on some old 30' 2x4s (on a makeshift pallet),, I used 2 of them and bolted them to the top of my drywall lift making it 25' to hold the sheet up, the built in extensions on the lift were cheap chinese junk.
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dfiler2
Well-known member
Here are a couple right after I put the lights in last winter, 29'9" panels. I also used a panel lift and did not pre-drill any holes, not sure why you would take the chance, its easy enough to mark the walls where the rafter cords are on the first row and after that mark them with a straight edge and a pencil. The pencil will wipe off just hit the high spots. As long as you own the lift, take your time and enjoy it.
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FlyingLow
Well-known member
Thanks guys, after a fair bit of searching yesterday i think I'm going to do it. Its just a 12x23 carport that I added beside my garage with scissor trusses so the lengths will be just under 12'. Long term plan is to enclose it so i want to put up a permanent ceiling, not vented sofit material to be torn down in a year or 2. I'm feeling like it is better to run the corrugations the length of the space? Any input on that? I'll see if i can dig up a picture to clarify.
Edit: picture added
Edit: picture added
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captain14
Well-known member
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/private.php?do=showpm&pmid=996245
This is a link from a member that answered my questions about installing a metal ceiling.
Thanks PC06