Steel Pipe Threading (Homeowner's Edition)

[Metallitubby]

I've decided on using steel pipe (either black or galvanized) for my compressed air lines. With that in mind, I am going to need to thread some of the pipe at some point. My question is this: Do I purchase a cheaper ratcheting hand-type or cut all of my pieces and just run back and forth to the hardware store for them to use their machine?

I'd like to be able to do repairs and/or upgrade the lines in the future, but don't have the need to purchase an automatic one. I'm sure other people have been through this here. I'm open to any new processes, but I am definitely sticking with the steel pipe. No need to attempt to change my mind about that aspect.

 

[e36jon]

I needed (need, still have some to do.) to run new gas lines in my garage and went ahead and bought a manual ratcheting handle + die set. I went with Ridgid because no one had anything bad to say vs the cheap stuff that dulls quickly. Anyway, it all works as advertised and has allowed me to put the pipe right where I want it.

Clamping the pipe for threading is non-trivial, and even though my bench vise was up for the challenge I ended up tugging the bench around... So, figure that part out too.

In hindsight going with a Harbor Freight powered tool + Rigid dies (or something like that) may have been a better choice,

 

[engineer2]

The steel pipe you buy isn't cast, it's steel. Cast would be too brittle. Most of it could be done with standard lengths and the odd length cut and threaded at the local hardware store. At the big box store you should be able to find 10ft, 5ft, 3ft, 18", 12" on down. If you can buy threading tools cheap, go for it. The used ones for sale around here are usually worn out contractor tools.

That's why I like copper pipe. Easy to cut and solder to whatever you need, plus no corrosion ever.
I've seen 1/2 BIP rusted inside to the point where the ID is the size of a pencil.

 

[Metallitubby]

The steel pipe you buy isn't cast, it's steel.

Thank you for the correction. I know very little about the undertaking aside from where to purchase and ID/OD at this point.

 

[dlwilson]

I used the Harbor Freight hand ratcheting threader for some gas line repairs, and it worked fine. It was my first time using one.

 

[velillen01]

I just did a bunch of Black Iron pipe work redoing my natural gas line sin the house. First things I would tell you....try to plan it to use as many off the shelf pipes you can. Much quicker and simpler than threading a bunch.

I picked up a used Ridgid 00-R setup with dies. Was probably in that for ~$100 bucks (1/2", 3/4", and 1" dies). You'll also need a pipe cutter. I think I paid around $30 bucks for a NYE branded one that uses Ridgid cutter wheels. I'd try to stick with stuff that can use Ridgid as (least by me) thats what you'll find in store making parts easier to find.

I didnt have a pipe clamp or bench vise. But used a larger pipe wrench and threaded on the ground (not the easiest but it worked).

I got everything off ebay. A tip is to search "rigid" instead of ridgid. Or just generic "pipe threader". Dont be scared of dirty/rusty looking stuff as itll clean up. For the dies just look for ones that have pictures of the inserts so you can tell if they look worn out or not.


You could also check with local rental places. Some might have machine threaders. But like my Ace Hardware will rent a manual pipe threader and dies and its not to expensive.

 

[555]

When I was an apprentice electrician we used a pipe vise mounted on the truck and a ratcheting threader. We didn't get automated until I was a journeyman and that was only during big jobs. A simple pipe vise can often be found very cheap and the HF threader will probably do the job. Here's a new Grizzly vise on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD5A6/?tag=atomicindus08-20. The HF threader is $34.99 may be cheaper with today's sale.

 

[Jawn]

I recently retrieved some manual pipe threading equipment from my late mother's house. If it'll help, you're welcome to borrow. (I have not yet thoroughly examined it to see if it's in usable shape).

It's probably something Mom picked up at an auction to give to Dad. They were kind of hoarders. I guess that's where I get it from.

 

[dr_clyde]

I would look into just renting a good pipe threader for the job and getting it all done in a weekend. I have a Ridgid 535 threader I got at auction for $350 and I wouldn't ever want to fit threaded pipe without a power threader. Mine can run 1/8-2" NPT and it makes fast, clean cut threads that don't leak. Has the cutoff tool and the reamer built right into the machine.

I would happily pay the couple hundred or whatever the rental house wants to rent one for the weekend so I'm not cranking a handle for days.

Whatever you end up doing, I would highly recommend a Ridgid Tri-stand chain vise. They are the absolute bee's knees for anything pipefitting related. ESPECIALLY if you're hand threading the pipe. They are worth every penny, and are super handy tools to have around. Even if you got the bench mount version, a chain vise is the way to go.

The Ridgid hand threaders aren't too bad to use, and they're pretty inexpensive. They just take a lot of elbow grease if you have any amount of threads to do, and the guided die heads make it so easy to get consistent threads to make your connections the same.

I would also recommend the belt and suspenders combo of tape first, then a slick of dope on the tape. Every pipefitter and plumber I've worked with worth their salt used both, and they have a great reputation of joints not leaking. I have followed their advice and have had excellent results.

 

[merkyworks]

@Metallitubby Why are you 100% set on steel over PVC sch40 pipe/fittings, it’s rated for 480 psi ?

Seems like PVC would be less money and easier to cut/custom fit to given application

 

[dr_clyde]

Hard to tell nowadays if folks are trolling with the PVC thing or not. Its become so much of a joke here.

 

[merkyworks]

I wasn’t trolling with PVC comment, maybe I’m dumb for not knowing why??

I‘ve seen and worked in many shops that use PVC pipe for compressor air supply hardlines. So to me this isn’t out of the norm or a trolling comment but what have I missed?

 

[larry4406]

My previous house I used the harbor freight electric threader for running air lines with black pipe and worked fine for me.

 

[dscheidt]

I wasn’t trolling with PVC comment, maybe I’m dumb for not knowing why??

I‘ve seen and worked in many shops that use PVC pipe for compressor air supply hardlines. So to me this isn’t out of the norm or a trolling comment but what have I missed?

PVC is entirely unsuitable for compressed air. You can go look it up yourself, if you really don't know. Plenty about it here.

 

[Showkey]

I have an adjustable pipe die that I purchased used 40 years ago. Age unknown, Still works fine……but its a lot of work. I would go with copper lines for easy of assembly, no rust issues, thread pipe and fitting are going to leak unless your meticulous. Cutting straight ends is just as important as the threading.
If you committed to steel…….plan very carefully buy pre threaded pipe in the needed lengths.

Rapid air and other similar brands has merit as well.
Northern Tool:

RapidAir MaxLine 3/4in. 100ft. Master Kit Compressed Air Piping System, Model# M7500 $180.​

 

[dr_clyde]

I wasn’t trolling with PVC comment, maybe I’m dumb for not knowing why??

I‘ve seen and worked in many shops that use PVC pipe for compressor air supply hardlines. So to me this isn’t out of the norm or a trolling comment but what have I missed?

Those shops were breaking the law. OSHA does not allow PVC for air lines.

It is not rated for compressed gas, and when it shatters it is extremely dangerous.

 

[Copymutt]

If you opt to buy a set of dies, this will be of value. From Pop. Sci. 1947.
page 210.

Popular Science

Popular Science gives our readers the information and tools to improve their technology and their world. The core belief that Popular Science and our readers share: The future is going to be better, and science and technology are the driving forces that will help make it better.

books.google.com

 

[merkyworks]

Those shops were breaking the law. OSHA does not allow PVC for air lines.

It is not rated for compressed gas, and when it shatters it is extremely dangerous.

Well learned something new today.

 

[sparky 1971]

I would just go buy the Harbor Freight hand threader for $35 and be done with it. If it's planned out well ahead of time, you can buy most of what will be needed in full pieces of pipe and ******* and only have to cut and thread your own a couple of times. The biggest problem is going to be the vice. My bench vice does have pipe jaws, but I have never used them so I don't know how great those are and if it will hold the pipe while being threaded. I have an actual pipe vice on a tripod for the manual threader and a Rigid 300 power threader so it isn't a problem for me.

I put (6) 10' sticks and a few ******* of 1/2" black pipe in my shop for the air with four outlets. Between going up one wall, across the ceiling, T'ing off for a retractable reel, down another wall and turning three corners on the walls, I had to cut and thread three pieces total. Factory lengths for the most part worked. If I hadn't been drinking, I could have done it with only having to thread two pieces, but I wasn't thinking all that clearly after the 8th or 9th beer went down and I finished the 12 pack before I finished the job.

 

[GeoBruin]

I found it handy to be able to cut and thread pipe to length, but I've also found that the worn out equipment and incompetent users at home depot can manage to mangle a ****** much worse than I can if I'm deliberate and take my time.

But, as others have mentioned, a pipe cutter is every bit as important as the dies. If the cut isn't square, you're going to have goofy threads.

 

[speed bump]

Unless you already have a pile of pipe I would buy a rapidair kit and skip threaded pipe altogether (this is coming from someone who access to all the pipe tools they could need for this job). Steel pipe is stupid expensive right now and unless you have worked with it a few times always has a few gotchas that you will learn the hard way.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

Even with a Ridgid power boy and a rack of steel pipe, and a wall of fittings, we used a lot of ridged plastic tubing and push on fitting. You will have less losses.

I picked up a couple of ratchets and die heads at the fleamarket. I wanted the 1/2", but it was all or nothing. The 3/4" and ratchet was from a company that went out of business 40 years ago. The name started with a W. It was dull. I looked on line and it was something like $120 for dies. So I used a Dremel and Cratex round to sharpen it. It worked !

 

[mrobins297aaa]

What ever you end up buying/renting get a pipe vise. I couldn't even imagine threading pipe without it.
also make sure you use thread cutting oil (never motor oil) when your threading, if you use anything else you'll make quick use of those dies.
i have the ridgid version of the power hand threader that HF sells for around $200. I think I paid around $700 for mine around 1990, It still has the original cutting dies for two reasons, I use plenty of cutting oil when I thread and I never let anyone borrow it. lol

 

[jh87]

I have a Ridgid ratcheting threader at home. We have a power threader at work. The ratcheting threader works fine, but I would not want to use them for a big job. Don’t forget that you’ll need more than just the threader for your project. You’re going to need a way to cut the pipe relatively straight, you’re going to need a reamer, you’re going to need a way to hold your pipe while threading, and you’ll need a way to distribute lots of oil while you’re threading.
If you plan your project out you can do a minimal amount of cutting and threading.

 

[danski0224]

I've decided on using steel pipe (either black or galvanized) for my compressed air lines. With that in mind, I am going to need to thread some of the pipe at some point. My question is this: Do I purchase a cheaper ratcheting hand-type or cut all of my pieces and just run back and forth to the hardware store for them to use their machine?

I'd like to be able to do repairs and/or upgrade the lines in the future, but don't have the need to purchase an automatic one. I'm sure other people have been through this here. I'm open to any new processes, but I am definitely sticking with the steel pipe. No need to attempt to change my mind about that aspect.

You will need a Ridgid 00R die head, handle and pipe dies. Also need a pipe vise stand (chain holder) or some other method to securely hold the pipe.

Without experience, it is quite difficult to cut the pipe square using a bandsaw or Sawzall. A metal cutting circular saw would work, with a guide to keep it 90 degrees to the pipe. The old fashioned screw feed cutter with wheels works the best.

A non square pipe cut causes problems with getting the die to engage.

The ID of the pipe will need to be reamed when using the screw feed cutter.

The manual old Ridgid stuff can usually be found on the secondary market.

Going back and forth to the store for cutting is a huge time sink, if someone is there or the machine is broken.

The powered threaders from Harbor Freight are junk, and the dies are junk. Waste of money.

A good power threader, no matter the size, from Ridgid or Rothenberger, will set you back at least a grand new (for a small one). Or more.

 

[klassenl]

I currently have PEX air lines in my shop. Just standard PEX with standard crimp fittings. Very easy. I managed to get mine run inside the walls so it's very clean. Running PEX on the surface is hard to make it look nice.

 

[Metallitubby]

Again, this isn't a "help me decide which air line to buy" thread. It is clearly stated that I am going with steel pipe. The question is about what is needed to adequately do so.

Thank you to everyone that has contributed thus far, and since the local Ace Hardware has all of the tools to make the cuts, threads, and reaming, it might be in my best interest to make the measurements as I go and have them do the custom cuts/threads at this point. I don't need to purchase the professional tools (i.e power threader) at this point.

 

[yatg]

Do that. When the China pipe threads chip during threading they can redo it for you.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

At work we ran out of Ridgid Dark cutting oil. We tried Rapid Tap and Crown brand spray can cutting oil. Neither worked . We gave the purchasing agent 'ell. You have to flood the cut. This is critical. Besides the pipe vise, you need big squeeze oil can and a basin to catch the oil and cuttings. For a reamer, you might be able to use one of those step drill bits , I've done that for copper propane lines.

 

[sportfan]

@Metallitubby Why are you 100% set on steel over PVC sch40 pipe/fittings, it’s rated for 480 psi ?

Seems like PVC would be less money and easier to cut/custom fit to given application

I've got to admit I had never heard about any problems with the use of PVC for air lines. I've use it for over 35 years for air lines without any issues. The two garages I used it in were heated in the winter if that makes any difference .

 

[dr_clyde]

Just because you can get away with something doesn’t make it right. PVC is not acceptable to use for air lines. End of discussion.

This isn’t a thread to discuss the merits or lack thereof using PVC for airlines. OP is doing it properly and using steel pipe.

 

[Metallitubby]

Do that. When the China pipe threads chip during threading they can redo it for you.

The threads are made in China or the pipe is? I don't understand the statement. Frankly, I'm supporting a local, family-owned Ace Hardware franchise. Most all of the pieces will be pre-threaded because simple planning will eliminate the need for custom cuts/sizes.

I won't even address the PVC vs. ___________ comments because I already decided beforehand.

 

[yatg]

The threads are made in China or the pipe is? I don't understand the statement.

Most of the black pipe is made in China. Its not of the same quality as USA pipe. Chinese pipe and fittings have been an ongoing problem for many years. Sometimes when the pipe is being threaded, impurities in the steel cause the threads to chip. Its random.

For those pieces you're having your ACE thread, if there's a problem with threading it, its on them to make it right.

Cheap Chinese black iron pipe - RIDGID Forum | Plumbing, Woodworking and Power Tools

Plumbers Forum: If you are not a pro or on your way to becoming a professional tradesman please use the "Ask the Plumbing Experts" Section

www.ridgidforum.com

 

[Metallitubby]

For those pieces you're having your ACE thread, if there's a problem with threading it, its on them to make it right.

Thank you for the direction. I live a good distance from anywhere (aka no big box stores within 20+ miles), and the Ace Hardware is my only source for supplies unless I coordinate otherwise. I will ask them if they can source American steel, because if I have an option, I will pay more to support "us".

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

When picking up prethreaded pipe, check the threads with a number of fittings, like 90s and 45s. Then look for torn threads. Both the fittings and the threads can be of poor quality. It's only air lines, so more a case of ease of use.

 

[Showkey]

Thank you for the direction. I live a good distance from anywhere (aka no big box stores within 20+ miles), and the Ace Hardware is my only source for supplies unless I coordinate otherwise. I will ask them if they can source American steel, because if I have an option, I will pay more to support "us".

This same thread quality and actual individual fittings quality issue was what I was referring to when trying to get a leak free system.

 

[sportfan]

Just because you can get away with something doesn’t make it right. PVC is not acceptable to use for air lines. End of discussion.

This isn’t a thread to discuss the merits or lack thereof using PVC for airlines. OP is doing it properly and using steel pipe.

I just asked a honest question about something I had never heard before. I thought this would be a forum I could learn from . I don't claim to know everything just because I've turned wrenches for 50 years and have inventions used around the world. I didn't think trying to gain a little more knowledge would get someone's ******* in a wad.

 

[Firebrick43]

I just asked a honest question about something I had never heard before. I thought this would be a forum I could learn from . I don't claim to know everything just because I've turned wrenches for 50 years and have inventions used around the world. I didn't think trying to gain a little more knowledge would get someone's ******* in a wad.

PVC work hardens and UV light accelerates degradation as well. Water will do it to but air compressors typically are higher psi and larger cycles. So every time the pressure reduces to the switch cuts in and turns on the compressor and builds back up to 120 psi it is a cycle. Water has has minimal cycles on constant pressure city systems and moderate on well systems.

The safety issue with Air in PVC is that air is compressible where water is not. The pressure on water line goes to zero almost instantly as the crack/fracture occurs. In an air line it continues to expand many times its compressed form accelerating the shards of brittle PVC and possibly injuring someone.

This is why all PVC pipe manufactures forbid their products from being used in compressed gas systems as well as OSHA. Don't take my word for it, read it for yourself. Charlotte pipe is the largest PVC pipe manufacture in the USA, possibly in the world and has the compressed air warning over 20 times in this manual.
Charlotte pipe manual, See page 7 and many others

People ******* in a wad is from many people constantly coming onto the board and claiming PVC is safe, some even when presented with proof. If you learn and never praise it again, meh, most/I will forgive you. But it you fail to "see the light", I do believe that most here will see you as Satan incarnate. So go, and sin no more.

 

[crguy]

Again, this isn't a "help me decide which air line to buy" thread. It is clearly stated that I am going with steel pipe. The question is about what is needed to adequately do so.

Thank you to everyone that has contributed thus far, and since the local Ace Hardware has all of the tools to make the cuts, threads, and reaming, it might be in my best interest to make the measurements as I go and have them do the custom cuts/threads at this point. I don't need to purchase the professional tools (i.e power threader) at this point.

What are you going to do about the inevitable rust that will form inside the steel lines? Compressed air always has moisture in it.

 

[sportfan]

Firebrick43 thank you for that informative reason why one shouldn't use PVC for air lines. That was all I wanted to begin with. If you would look back on my post you will see I never claimed it was safe . I just wanted to know why it wasn't. Is there a list of subjects that piss members off available that I can get ? I'm kind of new here so I don't know what is constantly asked or claimed. I guess I've never been on a forum where people get upset so easily.