Hey guys, I just got a 24k mini split installed in my 24x30x12 shop that's spray foamed with open cell. I live in deep south texas so the heat is quite brutal. So far the mini split is doing an amazing job. I have one problem to fix however. I have a steel 10x10 roll up door that's non insulated. It doesn't hardly ever get direct sunlight but you feel some heat coming off of it for sure. I thought about using double bubble insulation on the inside but I'm not sure how I'd adhere it to the door given that it has very small and frequent raises. My other option was using foam board insulation. Any other options you guys can think of? Here are some pics...
Steel Roll up door insulation
- Thread starter JoshM1112
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smackey05
Well-known member
I've seen people use "Reflectix" or a similar material on roll up doors. I've heard it is thin enough it doesn't cause an issue, but I personally have never used it.
I have the same doors and was looking into it. I found a video from what sounded like European guy who used long narrow metal band magnets and the un-insulated foil. He was able to put the magnets over the foil in the raised portions (I think) and roll the door up and down. I was not able to find the same magnets for sale. but I have seen plastic coated 1" rolls of of magnetic strips. My building is a metal un-insulated shell and so far I just have foil in the ceiling, which has managed to keep the temps to ambient. The foil is a radiant barrier that needs an air gap which comes from the recessed sections, so it would not be effective in the areas of contact with the door. From what I can tell the foam backing on the foil radiant barrier is a gimmick (Opinions even among Pro's seem to be mixed) and in this application probably works against the magnetic holding force of magnets. I briefly considered gluing it on, but quickly decided against that.
Yea I was concerned about glueing it on as well because these types of doors have a good bit of play within each slat. My building is holding 80° right now with the ac on and its about 99° outside with a feels like 106 but the roll up door is reading 95-100° on the inside and like 117° on the outside with my thermal gun. The exterior siding is reading 125°+ on the side thats getting the most sun. The door is where im losing alot of cool air so I think anything would help. I also need to close the gap at the top of the door, but plan on doing that with a brushed seal.
Cementaco1
New member
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- Jun 28, 2022
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Instead of using the Double Bubble foil stuff, I found the same thing but with a foam core center, not the air bubbles.
I am getting the 5mm (just over 3/16") thick stuff and that should go behind the door channels (I have 2 10' x 8' metal roll up doors) well and still let the door open pretty well, and keep the rattling door noise down when its windy out and help it seal better. Right now my doors have those felts pieces from the top to the bottom, I assume those are for rolling up easier, and the foam core foil insulation I am getting is almost the exact thickness of that, so I don't think rolling it up will be any issue. I also have JACOR brush seals on the outside, and those things are EXCELLENT and do a great job.
I am getting the 5mm (just over 3/16") thick stuff and that should go behind the door channels (I have 2 10' x 8' metal roll up doors) well and still let the door open pretty well, and keep the rattling door noise down when its windy out and help it seal better. Right now my doors have those felts pieces from the top to the bottom, I assume those are for rolling up easier, and the foam core foil insulation I am getting is almost the exact thickness of that, so I don't think rolling it up will be any issue. I also have JACOR brush seals on the outside, and those things are EXCELLENT and do a great job.
florida7272
New member
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- Jul 1, 2023
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I did the 1/4 foam core from Amazon and used 3m hi-strength contact adhesive and am happy with it so far. The only issue I had was the adhesive during the hot day with sun on doors 94° worked great. I would spray 3 to 6 rows and then push the foam core up the door and it held great.
I then tried to do it at night 82° and it would not even stick on a single row.
It's been on for a few weeks and rolls right up into the top roller and back down without any hangup.
I did the foam core roll horizontal across door, let it cure about 12 hours then it rolled up, no issues.
I found it makes a nice seal to the inside track by cutting it a few inches longer on both sides and then trimming it using a razor against the track.
I am now looking at getting the jacor door brush to add also since I'll be doing a 24k mini split.
My doors are 10x10, 10x10, and 8x8
I then tried to do it at night 82° and it would not even stick on a single row.
It's been on for a few weeks and rolls right up into the top roller and back down without any hangup.
I did the foam core roll horizontal across door, let it cure about 12 hours then it rolled up, no issues.
I found it makes a nice seal to the inside track by cutting it a few inches longer on both sides and then trimming it using a razor against the track.
I am now looking at getting the jacor door brush to add also since I'll be doing a 24k mini split.
My doors are 10x10, 10x10, and 8x8
Mike65
Well-known member
I have the roll up doors on my garage/shop & was interested in a few things I would like to add.
@Cementaco1, which Jaycor brush seals did you use, the 2", 3", or both?
@florida7272 , did you use the smart shield 48"x10' reflective insulation roll foam core radiant barrier engineered foil?
@Cementaco1, which Jaycor brush seals did you use, the 2", 3", or both?
@florida7272 , did you use the smart shield 48"x10' reflective insulation roll foam core radiant barrier engineered foil?
housewolf
Well-known member
Damn! This is an old thread but popped up on time.
I have a slightly smaller shop than the OP, uninsulated door, with an 18K BTU MS. I can keep it very comfortable inside in the worst of conditions but I am getting some heat from the door. It’s not on top of my short list but I’ll watch this thread and insulate this door eventually.
I’m thinking about gluing some magnets to foam board and just covering the door. I only open/close the door a few times a week and don’t keep the room conditioned unless I’m out there for any length of time.
I have a slightly smaller shop than the OP, uninsulated door, with an 18K BTU MS. I can keep it very comfortable inside in the worst of conditions but I am getting some heat from the door. It’s not on top of my short list but I’ll watch this thread and insulate this door eventually.
I’m thinking about gluing some magnets to foam board and just covering the door. I only open/close the door a few times a week and don’t keep the room conditioned unless I’m out there for any length of time.
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My neighbor had an idea that I may go with.
Build “barn” doors to absorb the heat and shield the roll up door. This will easily create a 2-3” air gap between the barn door and roll up garage door.
My door is 16x10
I’ll probably have my buddy weld (2) 8x10 aluminum frames and I’ll attach them to the 2.5” posts frame for the garage door that you see from the outside. Simple fence hinges they use on farm gates will work.
The cover will be 29ga metal siding that matches the rest of the garage.
During the summer time I’ll attach the door to the fence hinges and during fall and winter I’ll take them off and store it on the back side of the garage.
Will it look odd? Probably! But it’ll definitely help with the heat beating on the garage door.
Build “barn” doors to absorb the heat and shield the roll up door. This will easily create a 2-3” air gap between the barn door and roll up garage door.
My door is 16x10
I’ll probably have my buddy weld (2) 8x10 aluminum frames and I’ll attach them to the 2.5” posts frame for the garage door that you see from the outside. Simple fence hinges they use on farm gates will work.
The cover will be 29ga metal siding that matches the rest of the garage.
During the summer time I’ll attach the door to the fence hinges and during fall and winter I’ll take them off and store it on the back side of the garage.
Will it look odd? Probably! But it’ll definitely help with the heat beating on the garage door.
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I have the same roll up doors (10x10) in my shop and have noticed the heat radiating from them. Mine face east and get full sun so it can be pretty warm if you are working close to them. I have yet to do anything about it and will be following this post and have had the same ideas as most here. I would like to know how well and how long the thin insulation and glue works out. I have also toyed with the idea of using the rigid insulation board panels with foil on one side, sitting in front of the door on the inside. Then make them movable by raising them up with a simple cord and pulley system since the weight would be very little.
But my last idea that I have yet to implement I think is the best compromise. So there are a lot of times that the weather is nice outside and I would like to leave the doors open while I work out there. But there are usually 2 problems. The first is the typical bug problem with nats, flys, etc. and the other is birds. It never fails that if I have the door open some little bird flies in and goes straight to the top of the roof inside and it wont fly out. Then when its time to close up, I spend a lot of time chasing it around until its so tired it eventually flies low enough to go out the door. Its a pain and can take a long time especially when you have to be somewhere else.
The idea I came up with is to make a sliding door on the outside of the building that hangs in front of the overhead door. It would use the typical barn door style track and hangers so that it could be slid to the side to get a vehicle in and out. The "door" would be the aluminum extrusion used to build pool enclosures and screen rooms. I think it would be lite enough that the structure could be a very simple divided panel. Then it would get screened with the darkest solar screen to "shade" the door and also keep the bugs out when the door is open. I would have to come up with a good latch system to keep it secure from wind and maybe help support it so that its not totally hanging all the time. Other than needing to drive something in or out it would stay in the closed position most of the time. Its been something I have wanted to do for a long time.
But my last idea that I have yet to implement I think is the best compromise. So there are a lot of times that the weather is nice outside and I would like to leave the doors open while I work out there. But there are usually 2 problems. The first is the typical bug problem with nats, flys, etc. and the other is birds. It never fails that if I have the door open some little bird flies in and goes straight to the top of the roof inside and it wont fly out. Then when its time to close up, I spend a lot of time chasing it around until its so tired it eventually flies low enough to go out the door. Its a pain and can take a long time especially when you have to be somewhere else.
The idea I came up with is to make a sliding door on the outside of the building that hangs in front of the overhead door. It would use the typical barn door style track and hangers so that it could be slid to the side to get a vehicle in and out. The "door" would be the aluminum extrusion used to build pool enclosures and screen rooms. I think it would be lite enough that the structure could be a very simple divided panel. Then it would get screened with the darkest solar screen to "shade" the door and also keep the bugs out when the door is open. I would have to come up with a good latch system to keep it secure from wind and maybe help support it so that its not totally hanging all the time. Other than needing to drive something in or out it would stay in the closed position most of the time. Its been something I have wanted to do for a long time.
Why do all that work building a door to cover your door? Couldn't you just install an insulated overhead door?
dcg9381
Well-known member
I agree. But if you've priced a 16x10 insulated door these days you may be in for a shock.
I'll never buy roll up doors again.. They rattle like **** (my main complain) in the wind, and insulate/seal for ****. Mine are some sort of mid-grade "wind lock" - I hope the market has better options... I'm panel doors from here on out.
I have seen single car garages with a screened wall and single person screen door built in front of the garage door and it looked fine but was an attached garage not a stand alone metal building. So far in my 4 bay metal building I foiled under the roof but not the doors. It is cooler than being outside side in the sun; fans help too.
Mike65
Well-known member
I also have the roll up doors & I am trying to figure a way to insulate them. When I was in Florida visiting my 2 older brothers I noticed quite a few people with the screens in front of the open door for ventilation but to keep the bugs out like the one in the attached link.
Here is a simple solution for roll up garage doors. https://bluetexinsulation.com/blogs/installations/commercial-roll-up-garage-door-installation
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thomasfrank
Member
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- Sep 12, 2023
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- 5
I must have learnt one of two from the comment section and the original post