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Steel roofing question

Youngfd

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Dec 9, 2014
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Maltby, WA
I am getting ready to install a new SNAP-LOC roofing system on my building. I have all new framing underneath and 1/2 plywood sheeting. I am NOT going to have rain gutters on the backside, rather let it run off on to a crushed gravel area that will have perforating drainage under it. I will be installing a metal eave flashing that has a 1/2" angle kick out. Roof hangs 15" past the back wall and has a 1" / 12" pitch. QUESTION -- how much metal should I hang past the edge of the sheeting to get a good rain run off?
 

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kbs2244

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With that much surface you may get some good speed on the water.
I would get a garbage can full of water up there and dump it.
That will tell you how far out you need to put your drain pipe.
 

jkeyser14

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(rural) Maryland
Water really speeds down metal roofing. You don't need more than 1" of overhang to keep the water from the roof off of your walls, but I would suggest a 12" overhang to provide protection from blowing rain coming in from the side.
 

DougWil

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NW Montana
1 in 12 isn't much pitch.
Are you screwing down the edge at the eave or using a cleat and bending the standing seam back under?

The former may make the water wick back under the roof, the later wouldn't.
 

joe_padavano

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Every single manufacturer of metal roofing publishes a technical manual that describes the recommended techniques for finishing all edges of a metal roof with their product. Did you review the manufacturer's recommendations for drip edge? Likely they sell a special drip edge piece that should be installed under the roofing. The Advant-Lok roofing that I've used has a special drip edge with integral cleat. The lower edge of the roofing panels is folded under and slips over this cleat to anchor that edge. This way all fasteners are concealed and there are no penetrations or potential leak points.

When all else fails, read the directions.
 

DougWil

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Every single manufacturer of metal roofing publishes a technical manual that describes the recommended techniques for finishing all edges of a metal roof with their product. Did you review the manufacturer's recommendations for drip edge? Likely they sell a special drip edge piece that should be installed under the roofing. The Advant-Lok roofing that I've used has a special drip edge with integral cleat. The lower edge of the roofing panels is folded under and slips over this cleat to anchor that edge. This way all fasteners are concealed and there are no penetrations or potential leak points.

When all else fails, read the directions.

:thumbup:
Before I installed standing seam roofing on my house I got a couple of manufacturer's installation guides and then went around looking at existing SS roofs.

Almost none were installed as recommended.

Screws at the eaves, screws at the rakes, screws at the hips and valleys.
All of which defeat 2 of the big advantages of SS.
No holes penetrating where water is and no transfer of expansion and contraction forces to the screws which works them out and makes them eventually leak.
 
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Youngfd

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Dec 9, 2014
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Maltby, WA
Read all the instructions. Looked at other SNAP LOC roofs in area. All different. Did a 3/4" overhang and used their PRIME ADHERE to seal between flashing and roof. Finished the project yesterday.
 

DougWil

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attachment.php


Did you run the ribs perpendicular to the slope??

If so, you installed it the wrong direction.
 
Last edited:

Redwolf947

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Feb 13, 2015
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Location
South East WI
I believe he is taking the pic from on the roof (from side to other?). It looked perpendicular like that to me too at first. Look at the driveway on the left pic that's the front I think..

Looks Good otherwise :thumbup:
 

TooMuchHair

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May 25, 2014
Messages
64
Yeah that 1in12 roof pitch is an issue.....depending where you look some say 3-12 is the minimum for their snap lock roof. Some manufactures even require installing their SL over a fully waterproofed surface. Probably better discuss your situation with the manufacturer. Cool looking building!
 
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